Desert Birding, And The Spectacular Quebrada De Las Conchas

January 18, 2023

Ah, a sleep-in. The late night owling escapades (can it really be called owling if we didn't find any owls?) had made our decision for a leisurely start quite easy to make. It also helped that we had just a few bird targets this day. 

We began in the cactus-laden desert just outside of Amaicha del Valle in search of the Sandy Gallito, White-throated Cachalote and several other species. The overcast conditions were a nice reprieve. We had figured that we would be "punished" for our lie-in by oppressive desert heat, but that was not the case! The clouds eventually dissipated, but the temperatures remained tolerable. 

 Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

Finding Sandy Gallito (we called her Sandra, her friends know her as Sandy) and White-throated Cacholote is not difficult here. Just get out of the vehicle, really anywhere, and wander off into the desert. Soon enough, you will hear your target species. We quickly tallied a half-dozen of each, though seeing them well took a little bit of effort. 

Sandy Gallito - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

White-throated Cacholote - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

Laura had a few other potential lifers that we quickly connected with - Black-crowned Monjita and Diuca Finch. That was easy! Otherwise, we just enjoyed wandering through the desert and checking out the surprisingly diverse flora. 

Bulnesia schickendantzii - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

Parkinsonia praecox - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

Cereus aethiops - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

I have tentatively identified this lizard as Liolaemus quilmes, the Quilmes Smooth-throated Lizard. Like most species in this diverse genus, it has a small range - basically, just this portion of the desert. 

Liolaemus quilmes - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

Liolaemus quilmes - Amaicha del Valle area, Tucumán, Argentina

One final pitstop in the Quilmes area was an unsuccessful bid for a Black-legged Seriema. Not finding it wasn't a huge surprise, given that the temperatures and especially the wind had substantially increased. The most interesting organism here was this awesome little dung beetle in the genus Anomiopsoides. 

Anomiopsoides sp. - Quilmes area, Tucumán, Argentina

Anomiopsoides sp. - Quilmes area, Tucumán, Argentina

We continued northwards, hoping to make it to the outskirts of the city of Salta for the night. We grabbed lunch in Cafayate and purchased a few nice bottles of local Malbec before continuing onwards. 

Our route took us through the incredibly picturesque valley of Quebrada de Las Conchas and we made numerous stops to be tourists and admire the scenery. These were some of the best mountain views we have ever seen. 

Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

We found a pair of Monte Yellow-Finches at one of our scenery pit-stops as well! The male was singing which helped clinch the ID. We chased him up a hillside, but he vanished without a trace. From our new vantage point we could see down a river valley. 

 Quebrada De Las Conchas area, Tucumán, Argentina

Quebrada De Las Conchas area, Tucumán, Argentina

A nice birding surprise was spotting a pair of distant Maguari Storks along the river. This is a rarity in the area, and it was a lifer for Laura as well. Just a bit too far for photos any better than record shots. 

Maguari Stork - Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

We also discovered this as yet unidentified Liolaemus lizard next to the car upon our return. 

Liolaemus sp. - Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

I'll finish with a few more photos of the scenery during our drive down the valley towards Salta. 

Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

Quebrada De Las Conchas, Tucumán, Argentina

That afternoon, we rolled into the town of Chicoana and quickly found a hotel for two nights. Our plan in the morning would be to drive back up over the mountains towards Parque Nacional Los Cardones for a day of birding another region with jaw-dropping mountain views. 

From Yungas Forest To Desert

January 17, 2023 (continued)

Today was a day of contrasts. We began the morning with a successful search for the Rufous-throated Dipper in humid yungas forest on the east slope of the Andes. We then worked our way northwest over the course of the day and watched the landscape change to low shrubby habitats, then puna grassland, barren canyons and eventually dry stoney desert populated by massive, saguaro-like cacti. 

Of course, there were many birding stops to be made, and most of them were quite successful. During the mid-morning hours we investigated several creek valleys that cut through the grassland, quickly connecting with our much-desired White-browed Tapaculo and Tucumán Mountain Finch. 

White-browed Tapaculo ravine - Cascada km 13, Tucumán, Argentina

White-browed Tapaculo - Cascada km 13, Tucumán, Argentina

Tucumán Mountain Finch - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

The birding was fantastic here and we enjoyed the abundant Burrowing Owls and Subtropical Doraditos, our first Huayco Tinamou (heard-only, unfortunately) and displaying Hellmayr's Pipits. 

Subtropical Doradito - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

Variable Hawk - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

Hellmayr's Pipit - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

The landscape transitioned to steep-sided canyons with sparse vegetation once we had crossed over to the dry side of the mountain. A medley of colourful wildflowers added a spark of beauty. 

Hypseocharis pimpinellifolia - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

Commelina tuberosa - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

Portulaca fulgens - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

We stumbled across our first Streak-fronted Thornbirds here and spent a few minutes watching the pair take turns inside the rather large nest. 

Streak-fronted Thornbird - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

Cordilleran Canasteros and Black Siskins were easy photo subjects here, too. 

Cordilleran Canastero - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

Black Siskin - El Infiernillo area, Tucumán, Argentina

When birding a stark desert landscape in the mountains, the creek valleys are where most of the birds are at. We spent over an hour at a particularly attractive ravine and racked up a solid list of birds. 

Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Patagonian Mockingbird - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Putative Greenish Yellow-Finch - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Creamy-breasted Canastero - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

The main attraction here is the possibility of encountering Bare-eyed Ground-Doves, a range-restricted species endemic to northwestern Argentina. They did not disappoint, and we found a few of them. 

Bare-eyed Ground-Dove - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Bare-eyed Ground-Doves - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Laura's first Gray-hooded Sierra Finches also populated this valley. 

Gray-hooded Sierra Finch - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Giant Hummingbirds are always a crowd pleaser. I mean, who doesn't like a hummingbird that is the size of a martin? 

Giant Hummingbird - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Unidentified rodent - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Buff-breasted Earthcreeper - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Our next pit stop was a deep sandstone ravine, reportedly populated by the range-restricted Monte Yellow-Finch. Many birders stop here to tick their lifer Monte Yellow-Finch. 

Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

We showed up and immediately found several pairs of yellow-finches. The problem is, they all appeared to be Greenish Yellow-Finches. Voice is one of the better ways to tell these two similar bird species apart at this time of year and the male sang a perfect Greenish Yellow-Finch song. 

Apparently, Monte Yellow-Finches prefer these steep rocky canyons, while Greenish Yellow-Finches inhabit the grasslands further up. But these ones seemed quite comfortable in the rocky canyon.

Greenish Yellow-Finches - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

This female paused long enough for me to take her photo. I think that she is also a Greenish Yellow-Finch. 

Putative Greenish Yellow-Finch - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

I have spent quite a bit of time since, reading up on these two species and comparing photos online. I must admit, I still am not sure how to tell them apart at this time of year, and I am pretty sure that some of the photos of supposed Monte Yellow-Finches from this part of Argentina are mis-identified. I would suggest that birders use extra caution when deciphering this tricky ID, and to rely on voice which seems to be more distinctive. 

Putative Greenish Yellow-Finch - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

Of course, it wouldn't be a day of birding in the Andes without a few sightings of Andean Condors. This trio was consorting over the canyon while we were trying to figure out the yellow-finches. 

Andean Condors - Cuesta Los Cardones area, Tucumán, Argentina

My last lifer of the day was a pair of Steinbach's Canasteros just outside of Amaicha del Valle, while Laura also added her first Burrowing Parakeets. The hostel that we found in Amaicha del Valle actually had a large group of them roosting on the property, allowing us to get our fill of this beautiful and unique species. I didn't take any photos this time, but here is one from further south in Argentina during my 2016 trip. 

Burrowing Parakeets

That evening, Laura and I headed out to the nearby Quilmes ruins to search for Chaco Owls after dark. While we waited for nightfall, we contented ourselves by watching these cavies scampering around. Lots of food for the owls...

Microcavia maenas - Quilmes Ruins, Tucumán, Argentina

Right at dusk, we were surprised to see a small fox walking down the road, which we have since identified as a Chilla (Lycalopex griseus). She did not seem concerned with us at all, walking almost right up to us before plopping down for a rest!

Chilla - Quilmes Ruins, Tucumán, Argentina

As dusk fell, an Elegant Crested-Tinamou called and a Band-winged Nightjar flew over the dirt road. We tried for the owl in apparently suitable habitat, but came up empty. You can't get them all. Still, it had been a very full day with a ton of great sightings! The final highlight was the empanadas that we bought from a restaurant on our way back to town - the best we have had in Argentina so far.