Tuesday, 24 December 2024

Borneo: Manukan Island And The Tempasuk Plain

October 18, 2024

Following our adventure at Trus Madi, our remaining time in Borneo had dwindled to just three days. On October 19 we planned to visit a hide often attended by the Bornean Peacock-Pheasant.  This gave us October 18th as a free day. 

After mulling over a few other possibilities, Laura and I settled on Manukan Island, located offshore from Kota Kinabalu. These offshore islands are very popular with tourists due to their beautiful sandy beaches and there are regular water taxis that will drop people off at the various islands. From a birding perspective, several species on these islands are either absent from the mainland or rather uncommon, including Philippine Megapode, Mangrove Blue Flycatcher and Mangrove Whistler. All three would be lifers for Laura, while the blue flycatcher and whistler were species that I had never photographed before. Currently I have photographed about 87% of the species on my life list and so I was eager to add a few more. 

The water taxis do not start running until around 8:30 in the morning. This isn't very convenient from a birding perspective as the hot sun begins baking these islands relatively early in the day, leaving little time for productive birding. However, we were lucky. Heavy cloud cover (and some rain) delayed the onset of the hot temperatures. Though the intermittent rain was a bit of a nuisance, the birds remained active all morning whenever the rain subsided. 

Looking west from Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

We drove to the Jesselton Point ferry terminal, paid for our tickets and after a short wait we were corralled onto a boat. We landed at Manukan Island around 9:00 AM, paid our entrance fee to the national park and began to hike. Luckily all of the other tourists headed to the beach. We ventured along the brick path that headed west, paralleling the shoreline through beautiful forest towards Sunset Point. We ended up having this trail to ourselves for almost the entire morning!

Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Within 20 minutes of arriving we had already found a rare bird. As we walked around a bend in the trail, a dark rufous night-heron flushed up from a creek bed and landed further up the slope. Its distinctive wing pattern in flight gave it away as a Malayan Night Heron. This species is a scarce non-breeding visitor to Borneo, and October is peak migration season here. Some years there are no records of Malayan Night Herons in Borneo, while in other years several of them are found. Luckily, I managed a few photos before the shy night heron vanished.

Malayan Night Heron - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Buoyed on by this exciting find, we kept our wits about us in case there were any other rare birds lurking. We quickly found a small mixed flock that contained a female flycatcher that is either a Blue-and-white or Zappey's (the females are not confidently separated in the field). We ended up seeing several others along with a male Blue-and-white Flycatcher. This species is an uncommon migrant/winter visitor to Borneo. Things were happening!

Blue-and-white/Zappey's Flycatcher (female) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

The interesting discoveries continued. A little while later we found a different Malayan Night Heron along another small creek that passed the trail. And we found a Siberian Blue Robin, yet another migrant. Unfortunately that was it for migrants but we were pretty pleased with our haul. These islands have serious vagrant potential!

Siberian Blue Robin (female) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

The rain passed and the sun eventually peaked out from behind the clouds. Laura and I had flushed a pair of Philippine Megapodes near the start of our walk but our other two targets, the blue flycatcher and whistler, remained out of site. Upon reaching Sunset Point we lingered for a few minutes to search for marine life along the shoreline and to scan for ocean birds like terns or frigatebirds. There were none to be seen but we had fun observing the crabs and blennies resting just above the waterline. 

Grapsus sp. - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

These blennies were completely exposed out the water. These fish are capable of surviving short periods of time in this manner, using their pectoral fins to prop them up. 

Andamia sp - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

The sun had encouraged several butterflies to fly while we waited at Sunset Point. 

Plains Cupid (Luthrodes pandava) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Blue Glassy Tiger (Ideopsis vulgaris) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

We turned around and began the walk back to the jetty, hoping for better luck with our three target species on the way back. And things went to plan!

Pink-necked Green-Pigeon (female) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

I thought I heard a Mangrove Whistler sing, and a minute later we were watching one in the trees above our head! 

Mangrove Whistler - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Not 15 minutes later I thought I heard the song of a Mangrove Blue Flycatcher. A bit of quiet playback caused it to immediately fly in to investigate the intruder. A few seconds of playback was all that was needed (no need to blast it on repeat for several minutes as this is often counter-productive) and for a few minutes the Mangrove Blue Flycatcher sang back at us from a prominent perch. 

Mangrove Blue Flycatcher - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Mangrove Blue Flycatcher - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

All what was left was a proper view of a Philippine Megapode. We heard one singing up the slope and eventually found it watching us. Most of the body was hidden but we had great views from the neck up! I never managed a photo, though. 

The rest of our walk was quite relaxed as we had been successful with all three of our bird targets and had also found a few bonus migrant species. I focused more on identifying lizards, plants and insects. 

Eutropis sp. - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Asian Water Monitor (Varanus salvator) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Rough Mabuya (Eutropis rudis) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Saga Tree (Adenanthera pavonina) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

This Brown's Mabuya was a lifer for us. 

Brown's Mabuya (Eutropis indeprensa) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

A Zebra Dove was testing fate with a massive Asian Water Monitor lurking in the background.

Zebra Dove  - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

This particular Asian Water Monitor had no interest in leaving the path, so we gave it a wide berth. I still can't get over how large these lizards are...

Asian Water Monitor (Varanus salvator) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Laura and I finished our time on Manukan Island by joining the other tourists on the beach and going for a dip. I think this was my first ever swim in the ocean in Borneo despite this being my fourth visit - shameful, I know!

While waiting for the water taxi to take us back, I amused myself with photographing the various tropical fish that were near the dock. I would love to spend some time snorkeling or diving in these waters...maybe one day...

Doublebar Rabbitfish (Siganus virgatus) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia 

Black Rabbitfish (Siganus fuscescens) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Indo-Pacific Sergeant Major (Abudefduf vaigiensis) - Manukan Island, Sabah, Malaysia

Laura and I returned to the mainland, bought lunch and debated our next move. We still had several hours of driving ahead of us so that we could be in place to search for the Bornean Peacock-Pheasants the next morning. However, we were also sitting at 292 total bird species for our trip, by far the most I had seen on one trip to Sabah, and 300 was looking like a real possibility. We decided to add roughly an hour and a half to our drive by detouring north before heading east. The goal was to explore the rice paddy fields in the Tempasuk Plain. 

Scoping the rice paddies at the Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

We arrived with a couple hours of light and immediately went to work finding herons, rails, shorebirds and more. Wandering Whistling-Ducks sometimes flew low over the rice, while Lesser Coucals sang from their perches. 

Wandering Whistling-Duck - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

The shorebirds were rather numerous and I was very happy with my decision to bring my scope with me on this trip. If only we had more time to scan the shorebirds as we were running out of light quickly! We still found ten species of shorebird including Pacific Golden-Plovers, Red-necked and Long-toed Stints, Little Ringed Plovers and Common Snipes. 

Pacific Golden-Plover - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

Marsh Sandpiper - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

A couple of Eastern Marsh Harriers patrolled the fields along with other raptors like Peregrine Falcon, Black-winged Kite and Brahminy Kite. 

Eastern Marsh Harrier - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

Several large flock of terns flew past near dusk. As far as I could tell they were all Whiskered and White-winged Terns. 

White-winged Terns - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

Whiskered Tern - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

Rails included Eurasian Moorhen, Black-backed Swamphen, White-breasted Waterhen and Buff-banded Rail. Try as we might we couldn't turn up a Watercock. This species is starting to turn into a nemesis for us, as we dipped on them during our six weeks in Thailand and Malaysia in 2022 as well. 

Buff-banded Rail - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

White-breasted Waterhen (chick) - Tempasuk Plain, Sabah, Malaysia

Several other additions included Paddyfield Pipit and Eastern Yellow Wagtail. When it was all said and done we had added 14 species, bringing the trip total up to 306! I would say that was a success. 

At sunset we left the Tempasuk Plain behind and commenced the drive through the mountains to the town of Ranau where we had a room at an AirBnB property reserved. Along the way we moved this toad off the road. I believe this is a Giant River Toad (Phrynoidis juxtasper) which is found in Borneo, Sumatra and mainland Malaysia. That night, we fell asleep dreaming of Bornean Peacock-Pheasants. 

Giant River Toad (Phrynoidis juxtasper) - Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia

Saturday, 14 December 2024

Borneo: Ridiculous Mothing At Trus Madi Entomology Camp

When doing research on the few possible "lifer" birds that I could find on this trip to Sabah, and in particular, looking for sites to find the Bornean Frogmouth, I read about the Trus Madi Entomology Camp. This piqued my interest, as there is almost nothing I like more than setting up lights and seeing what insects appear. Surely this entomology camp would be right up our alley! Upon reading further, I saw photos of light traps covered with hundreds of moths and other insects. This was definitely a place that Laura and I needed to investigate!

We had arranged to stay just one night at the entomology camp and all arrangements were done through local birding guide Calvin Ng. I would have loved to stay another night here (this is a common theme pretty much anywhere Laura and I travel), especially since the drive up a rough track takes several hours, which limited the daylight searching we could do. 

The Trus Madi Entomology Camp is situated along a ridge in the mountains at around 1200m elevation. We experienced a bone-rattling ride in the Toyota Land Cruiser up the very poor road which accesses the camp. As we ascended higher into the mountains, the beautiful forested ridges of Trus Madi Forest Reserve surrounded us. What a place. 

View from Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

It was around 5 PM when we finally arrived at the Entomology Camp. Laura and I were shown our room - fairly basic, equipped with two single beds, but suitable for our needs. We threw our bags down and set off exploring down the road. We passed numerous light traps to attract insects - in just a few short hours, they would be covered with moths!

Moth trap at Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

As dusk approached, I turned my focus towards Bornean Frogmouths. This Bornean endemic is seen by very few visiting birders since it is more reliable at a few sites in Sarawak and Kalimantan, and absent from most of Sabah which is where most birders visit. Of course I had never seen it (or even been in range for it). There is usually a pair or two along the ridge near the Entomology Camp, and within seconds of playing the tape, Laura and I had a response! The Bornean Frogmouth called a few times, but before we could draw it in closer, a burst of rain began to fall and we quickly retreated back to the buildings since we had left our umbrellas behind.

Toyota Land Cruiser at Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

We enjoyed a delicious meal that was prepared for us by one of the women living/working here. The food alone is worth the trip to Trus Madi; it was some of the best I've had in Sabah. Additionally, coffee/tea and snacks were available 24/7. After enjoying our meal we spent some time checking out the various pinned insects on the walls, educational posters about the pitcher plants, mantises and butterflies, and the extensive library. 

Once nightfall hit, the real fun began. There are about a dozen light traps set up at various intervals along the road which runs along a ridge here. The lights turn on at dusk and remain on all night. Due to the often windy conditions along the ridge, the white sheets are secured at five points (the four corners and the center). This minimizes movement of the sheets, allowing insects to perch easily while also making photography easier. 

Moth traps at Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

During our visit a few of the light traps were out of commission but there were still eight fully functional ones.  And once night fell, the insect show began!

Moth madness - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Hoplia aurata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Idaea vacillata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Ophthalmitis variegata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Ropalidia sumatrae - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Enispa elateria - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Laura and I quickly realized what the night would have in store after we checked the first sheet. It was popping off! 

Unidentified moth - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Monolepta sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Zamarada baliata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Lista ficki - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Tanaorhinus malayanus - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Normally when I am mothing back home, I have two light traps that I set up and I go back and forth between them, photographing all the insects on both sides of each sheet. Usually there are more than enough insects to keep me busy and I can just go back and forth between the two sheets with new species appearing frequently. But there was just so much to see here at Trus Madi; no doubt we would be missing so many species since we could only check out one trap at a time. 

Polygrammodes limitalis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Mustilizans dierlii - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified Feather-legged Moth (family Stathmopodidae) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Chorsia quentini - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

One of my favourite groups of moths is the subfamily Arctiinae, also known as the tiger moths and allies. These moths have an enormous variety of colours and patterns; very few are clad in drab browns and grays. I photographed close to 40 species of tiger moths during our one night at Trus Madi Entomology Camp! Here are a few of the standouts: 

Cyana pudens - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Ammatho syntipica - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Ammatho roseororatus - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Spilarctia groganae - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Cyana selangorica - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Siccia clarimaculata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Monosyntaxis trimaculata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Padenia obliquifascia - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Barsine lucibilis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Cyana conclusa - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Adites sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Another favourite group of mine is the visually appealing emerald moths (subfamily Geometrinae). These geometer moths have incredible diversity throughout the world, and that is the case in Borneo, too. I photographed 15 species of emerald moths this evening (plus a few that I haven't identified). 

Comostola meritaria - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Lophophelma erionoma - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Eucyclodes albisparsa - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Eucyclodes semialba - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia
 
Dooabia lunifera - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Berta albiplaga - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Paramaxates spinivescia - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

The crambid moths (family Crambidae) are another group that I find interesting for some unexplained reason. Below are a few of my favourite crambids from Trus Madi.

Pachynoa sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Talanga sabacusalis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Sameodes pictalis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Parotis marginata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Pylartes subcostalis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Pachynoa spilosomoides - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

In addition to the hundreds of species of moths, Laura and I paid attention to a lot of other insects, too. The leafhopper, cicada and beetle diversity in particular was off the charts!

Cyclommatus lunifer - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Gununga alacris - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Onukia sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Orientopsaltria montivaga - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Deflorita pulchra - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified true weevil (family Curculionidae) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Anatkina lepidipennis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Olenecamptus optatus - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Batocera rubus - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

We noted two species of dobsonflies; the yellow one was by far the most common. 

Protohermes dichrous - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Protohermes spectabilis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Out of the various bee species, my favourite was this blue species of carpenter bee called Xylocopa tumida. It is only known from the highlands of Borneo; indeed, the only records on iNaturalist are from the Trus Madi Entomology Camp. 

Xylocopa tumida - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

At various points I played the tape for Bornean Frogmouth, but the persistent rain was not helping matters and we never heard it again. Even if it was active it would be impossible to hear it calling due to the white noise created by the rain and wind. At least the inclement weather did not seem to affect the insects!

As the evening wore on, Laura and I came up with a plan for how we would maximize our mothing experience. Due to the rain which was getting stronger, we decided that we would only stay up until around 10:30 or so, sleep until 4 AM, and then spend the last hour and a half of night back at the sheets. Often, certain insects fly at different hours of the night and so checking the sheet just before dawn can be extremely productive. 

Here are a few additional photos before we headed back to the camp where our beds awaited. 

Eupterote multiarcuata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Endotricha sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Eoophyla nigripilosa - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Lyssa zampa - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified shield bug (subfamily Pentatominae) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified moth - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Stericta divitalis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Tamba coeruleobasis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified pyralid moth (subfamily Galleriinae) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified assassin bug (subfamily Harpactorinae) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified moth - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Daddala microdesma - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Monocerotesa proximesta - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Sypna albilinea - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified moth - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Tamba lala - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Bracca georgiata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Borbacha bipardaria - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

This moth was on the short list for Moth Of The Night. What a stunner! 

Sinna calospila - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

4:00 AM arrived far too quickly, but the thoughts of all the new moths for us got us out of bed. The rain had stopped, too so we were able to put our umbrellas away. 

Our plan had worked out well. Though there weren't as many new moths as we had hoped, there were still hundreds that we hadn't noticed the previous evening. Very few moths were fluttering around and most had dew on them, so we surmised that the flight must have mostly shut down at some point during the wee hours of the night. 

Ourapteryx claretta - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified moth - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Plutodes flavescens - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

It was now a race against the clock; by sunrise many of the moths will have left, and those that remain become breakfast for the Ashy Drongos and other birds that reside in these hills. Below is a selection of some of the species from our early morning session. 

Pyrops cultellatus - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified geometer moth (family Geometridae) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Rhabdoblatta sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Locharna limbata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Nosymna sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Thysanoptyx sp. - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Krananda semihyalina - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Phyllium bradleri - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Barsine lucibilis - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

As the sky lightened I tried for the Bornean Frogmouth in a few different spots, but it did not respond. Laura and I were quite fortunate that we had heard one the previous evening. But we will have to return to Trus Madi in the future to obtain views of one. Or, perhaps we will do a trip to Sarawak one day where there are other sites to find the frogmouth. 

My flashlight caught the eyeshine of a nightjar on the road and it tolerated our approach. This is a Gray Nightjar, a species that winters in the highlands of Borneo among other areas. It was a new Borneo species for me, and I obtained my first photographs of the species. A few minutes later the first White-rumped Shama kicked off the dawn chorus and it was soon joined by Ashy Drongos, Bold-striped Tit-Babblers and more. The Gray Nightjar disappeared to its roost site for the day. 

Gray Nightjar - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia


Sunrise at Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Laura and I headed back to our lodging once the brief dawn chorus quieted back down. I quickly fell asleep; good thing I set an alarm! We enjoyed a delicious breakfast and then headed out on the trails. We wouldn't be leaving for Kota Kinabalu until after lunch and so we had most of a full morning to explore the ridge during the day. 

Since the frogmouth had been our only major bird target here, we were able to explore all morning at our own pace without worrying about targeting any species. We could just enjoy the birds, herps, insects and pitcher plants (of which there were many!). This species is Reinwardt's Pitcher-Plant (Nepenthes reinwardtiana) and it was abundant in a few areas. 

Nepenthes reinwardtiana - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

This particular individual had been chosen as the host for some sort of mining insect, perhaps the larvae of a fly or moth. I still haven't been able to figure out what species mines this plant. 

Unidentified mine on Nepenthes reinwardtiana - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Since there are no trails here (constructing them would be almost pointless given the dense vegetation and steep slopes), all of our exploration was done along the entrance road. We walked for about a kilometer or so before turning around. The birding was excellent, especially when we found our first big flock. Mixed in with the group were a few highlights: a photogenic Red-billed Malkoha, several Pygmy Heleias, a pretty Velvet-breasted Nuthatch and our first Orange-breasted Trogon for Borneo (we had seen this species previously in mainland Malaysia and Thailand). The trogon was actually a new species for the eBird hotspot. 

Red-billed Malkoha - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Orange-breasted Trogon - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Trus Madi Entomology Camp is situated at around 1200 m in elevation and so it has an interesting mix of highland and lowland species. It felt strange to be seeing or hearing highland birds like Pygmy Heleia, Crimson-headed Partridge, Little Cuckoo-Dove and Mountain Barbet while also finding lowland species like Banded Broadbill and Sunda Scimitar-Babbler. We saw a typical lowland leafbird - Lesser Green Leafbird - only a few minutes after finding a highland species, the Bornean Leafbird. An interesting mix!

Pygmy Heleia - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Borneo is home to eight species of hornbills. These iconic birds are typically associated with the lowlands and it is possible to find all eight species in a day in some of the lowland locales (I succeeded with this once at Tabin!). Only a couple of species venture into the hills such as the Rhinoceros Hornbill and Wreathed Hornbill. We had several flyovers of Wreathed Hornbills during our morning walk. 

Wreathed Hornbill - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia


Compared with our nocturnal insect adventures, it was a nice change of pace to photograph several insect species on grasses and tree trunks during the day. 

Spotted Grass Dart (Taractrocera ardonia) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Common Three-ring (Ypthima pandocus) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Tosena fasciata - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Oothonecroscia mjobergi - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Laura is always on snake patrol, especially when the birding is a bit slow. As we were walking back to the camp she suddenly yelled "snake!". Sure enough, an absolutely gorgeous Oriental Whipsnake was draped in the ferns and other vegetation at eye-level. 

Oriental Whipsnake (Ahaetulla prasina) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

If someone reading this is wondering "how the heck does Laura spot so many snakes when they blend in so well?", well, I wish I knew the reason! It is incredible...

Oriental Whipsnake (Ahaetulla prasina) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

I couldn't resist extracting the whipsnake from the foliage for a closer look. The colours were absolutely incredible. 

Oriental Whipsnake (Ahaetulla prasina) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

This was the largest Oriental Whipsnake that we had ever seen. All stretched out it likely was over five feet in length. 
Oriental Whipsnake (Ahaetulla prasina) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

Oriental Whipsnake (Ahaetulla prasina) - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

And with that, our time at Trus Madi came to an end. We had just one final treat in store. A Black-billed Malkoha was skulking beside the restaurant; this was a lifer for Laura! 

Black-bellied Malkoha - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia

We enjoyed one final meal, said goodbye to the staff, and hopped in the Land Cruiser with Peter for the long drive back to Kota Kinabalu. 

I wish I could say that the drive back was smooth sailing. Unfortunately, all of the rain that we had received in the past 24 hours had rendered several sections of the road nearly impassible, even with a high-clearance 4x4 like a Land Cruiser. During one particularly muddy uphill section Peter managed to get the vehicle stuck. His attempts at reversing the truck out of the area only made us sink deeper. We couldn't get any traction and the truck was properly stuck. We needed outside reinforcements to help us out of our situation, or else risk spending the night here. 

Fortunately, we had just passed a gate and there were a couple of young guys working there. Peter set off on foot, returning 20 minutes later in a 4x4 pickup truck with the boys from the guard house. Luckily, they had a tow rope as well. 

With great effort (and a lot of flying mud), the pickup was able to tow us out of the muddy spot. It then went ahead of us, barely making it through the bad section and to the flat area beyond. With a combination of the pickup towing us, and Peter blasting through the muddy section as fast as he could, we fishtailed up and out of the mud! I felt sorry for whoever needed to drive the road next...



The rest of the drive back to Kota Kinabalu was uneventful other than some fog and rain in the Crocker Range and we arrived at the airport shortly after 6 PM. We said our goodbyes to Peter and picked up our rental car for the final leg of our trip. 

Our whirlwind trip to Trus Madi had been expensive and over far too quickly, but we had had an amazing time in a gorgeous corner of the world. I hope to return one day!

And I'll finish this blog post with some numbers from Trus Madi, as I'm sure some people are wondering how many moth species we found. It is hard to land on an exact number because I haven't been able to identify a large proportion of them. But according to iNaturalist I photographed 650 individual insects, including 488 individual moths (I tried to photograph each species only once, but I have a few duplicates). I have been able to identify 211 of the moths down to species, but there are likely another 200 others, for a total of roughly 400 different moth taxa. Not a bad haul for a single evening of mothing.  

Scopula divisaria - Trus Madi Entomology Camp, Sabah, Malaysia