Boquete Birds

Boquete is a town set on the eastern flank of Volcán Barú, at an elevation of roughly 1200 masl. It is situated along the Río Caldera, surrounded by productive coffee plantations and above them, montane forest. Boquete has become a sort of haven for retirees from North America and Europe. Approximately 14% of its 19,000 residents are of foreign origin, according to Wikipedia. It also attracts backpackers and other tourists who wish to get their fix of ziplining, jungle trekking, coffee/chocolate tours, river rafting and similar activities. 

Laura and I booked three nights each in Boquete and Cerro Punta, which is a small town on the opposite, northwestern flank of Volcán Barú. We enjoyed our stay in both places, in no small part due to the excellent accommodations that Laura found online in each town, and due to the abundant bird life in the nearby hills.

Boquete, as seen from our AirBnB property

One benefit of traveling at this current time, as tourism is finally reopening in Panama, is the relative lack of crowds in typical tourist locations. Laura and I enjoyed our time in Boquete and went on several nice hikes. But we could envision that in typical times, the area would probably be a little overrun with tourists. In hindsight we should have booked two nights in Boquete and 4 nights in Cerro Punta since we absolutely loved the latter locale, but we still managed to have a great time in Boquete, regardless. 

One word of caution - the roads are quite steep in Boquete...

Laura and I reached out to a couple of local guides to inquire about arranging a trip up to the rim of Volcán Barú since it is easier reached from the Boquete side. This is a great way to search for some of the high-elevation birds including Timberline Wren, Volcano Junco and Unspotted Saw-whet Owl. The road is quite rough and a specialized high-clearance 4WD truck is necessary. Unfortunately, Jason Lara (who is a highly regarded local guide) was busy during the days we had available, while another local guide, Raul, did not respond to my messages. In hindsight, we should have tried to arrange something more than a couple of days in advance. Laura and I have seen Timberline Wren and Volcano Junco previously in Costa Rica, while I had connected with Unspotted Saw-whet Owl in Guatemala, but a Volcán Barú trip would have been a cool experience (and the lister in me would have liked those birds for my Panama list!). 

October 1, 2021

During our first afternoon in Boquete we walked up the gravel road that leads to the rim of Volcán Barú, since we needed to kill a few hours before checking in to our AirBnB property. The guard at the gate turned us back, informing us that we needed to obtain permission via email from the national park to walk the road. We said that we only wanted to walk a little bit up the road to look for birds (we were certainly not planning on hiking the 14km to the summit!), but he would not budge. At least we managed to see a few Acorn Woodpeckers and some other common montane birds in the area, while we lucked into eye-level views of a female Cerulean Warbler from the car on the drive back,

Acorn Woodpecker - Camiseta, Boquete, Chiriqui, Panama

As dusk fell, I set up the bug light in the backyard. The temperatures were a little cool at this elevation, while a strong wind whipped past all evening, but by weighing down the sheet I had some success with a few moths and other insects. 

The mothing was certainly a lot less productive than our attempts had been at Canopy Tower a week earlier. None of the big flashy (or even little flashy) species appeared, but nearly everything was still something that we had never seen before. 

October 2, 2021

Laura and I visited the Pipeline Trail for our first morning in Boquete. This is, of course, not to be confused with Pipeline Road/Trail near Gamboa where we had spent so much time earlier in the trip. 

We would have liked to have walked the Sendero Los Quetzales - a spectacular trail that cuts across pristine montane forest all the way to Cerro Punta on the other side - but, as we had earlier discovered, the trail was closed for maintenance. 

Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

The Waterfall Trail is a there and back again trail, and at only ~2.5 kilometres in length (each way), it can be hiked in relatively short order. Birders, of course, are a different breed. If mixed flocks are present, one could easily spend the whole morning (and then some) at the Waterfall Trail. It begins at an elevation of roughly 1580 masl, follows the river and passes through a landscape of small agriculture plots and woodland for the first stretch. Eventually it leaves the farmland behind, entering mature forest filled with majestic oaks, elms, and other ancient trees. The trail terminates at the waterfall – a high one, but with only a modest amount of water - that if I recall was around 1830 masl at the bottom. 

Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

The birding was pretty active in the lower stretches of the trail. This is not surprising given the mixed land uses here. While mature forest holds a much greater diversity of species, the human-altered habitats give up their species much more easily in a brief visit. Among others, we noted Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Flame-colored Tanager, Louisiana Waterthrush and White-naped Brushfinch, while hummingbirds were well-represented with Talamanca and Scintillant, Violet Sabrewing, White-tailed Emerald and more. 

Flame-colored Tanager - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

A small Empidonax flycatcher caught our attention due to its prominent eye-ring; after a few photos it disappeared and we were distracted by something else. Least Flycatcher has only been recorded a handful of times in Panama. This bird had primaries that seemed a little long for that species; unfortunately, I don’t have any other photos to go on. A tricky one…

Empidonax sp. - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

We could not visit Boquete and not see a Resplendent Quetzal. After all, about half of all of the restaurants, lodgings, and tourist outfits are named after this bird. While we did not see any males at the Waterfall Trail, we tracked down a female behind the famous Mexican Elm, a massive tree with a sign proclaiming its age as 1000 years. I am not sure if this is legend or if there is some truth to it, but it is a truly awesome specimen. 

Ulmus mexicana - Waterfall Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Three of the most common species that Laura and I have seen on this trip are all very familiar from back home: Red-eyed Vireo, Eastern Wood-Pewee and Swainson’s Thrush. All three have annoyed us at various points due to their abundance; this Red-eyed Vireo must have caught me on a good day since I decided to take its picture. 

Red-eyed Vireo - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

The bird diversity changed as we entered the forest. A couple of mixed flocks provided some entertainment, producing species such as Yellowish Flycatcher, Spotted Barbtail, Eye-ringed Flatbill, Red-faced Spinetail, Brown-capped Vireo and both Black-cheeked and Golden-crowned Warbler. 

Dark Pewee - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Yellowish Flycatcher - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Red-faced Spinetail - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

As we neared the waterfall, the fluted notes of Black-faced Solitaires lifted from the gargantuan trees. Birding was a little slow as mixed flocks did not materialize. But I was content to just gaze at the magnificent forest. We basically had the entire place to ourselves as well, crossing paths with only two solo hikers during the morning. 

Black-faced Solitaire - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

I noticed an anole near the base of a tree, and the kid in me ensured that I attempted to catch it. I have since identified it as Anolis magnaphallus (West Panamanian Anole). It has a limited geographic range in the highlands of western Panama. 

Anolis magnaphallus - Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

October 3, 2021

For our second full day in Boquete, we visited a location called Las Tres Cascadas (The Three Waterfalls), often known as The Lost Waterfalls. This is a classic tourist attraction in Boquete and I figured it would not necessarily be a birding morning when we decided to visit here. But I was pleasantly surprised. The birding and naturalizing was actually quite good, especially in the first hour or two of our visit before the weekend crowds appeared. 

Common Chlorospingus - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

The entrance fee is a little steep (8 USD per person), but the three waterfalls are beautiful and a fair amount of trail maintenance is required due to the frequent rainfall and tough topography. As one might surmise, the trail leads to three waterfalls spaced apart along a small river. The first section of trail passes by a couple of small fincas and disturbed habitat, before transitioning to high quality forest just before the first waterfall. The rest of the trail cuts up the heavily forested hillside, leading to the final two waterfalls. 

Cascada #2 - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

As we crossed the river via a small bridge near the beginning of the trail, I remarked that the setting looked excellent for American Dippers. Right on cue, one popped up beside us!

American Dipper - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

In the lower sections of the trail we noted a few nice species, including Scintillant Hummingbird, Prong-billed Barbet and various warblers. The barbets ended up being quite frequent on this day; we heard several pairs of duetting birds throughout the morning and encountered others along the trail. 

Scintillant Hummingbird - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

We chanced upon a huge mixed flock as we rounded a bend just before the second waterfall. It started with a few Collared Redstarts and Black-cheeked Warblers. Sensing that there could be more interesting things with them, I played the tape of the Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl. Pandemonium ensued. 

Gray-breasted Wood-Wren - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Spot-crowned Woodcreepers and Ruddy Treerunners flew in. Warblers of various species chattered from all around, while White-throated Mountain-gems and Green Hermits hovered beside us to see where the offending owl was located. A Barred Becard popped up, one of several new trip birds in the massive flock.  Mixed flock birding is the best.

Barred Becard - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Costa Rican Warbler - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

The other highlight occurred not long afterwards., with the chip notes of the mixed flock still faintly ringing in our ears. As we rounded a bend, a suspicious furnariid flew into a dense tangle nearby. Could it be?

Streak-breasted Treehunter - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

I played a short snippet of the bird's call, and it popped up out of the thicket to confirm my suspicions. A Streak-breasted Treehunter! 

Streak-breasted Treehunter - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

This was one of the few birds endemic to the Talamancan Range that I had never seen, and it can be a tricky species in some areas. Not only did we enjoy great looks of it, but it remained in the area for a while, causing us to finally walk away while the bird was still in view. Ovenbirds such as treehunters can be difficult to observe due to their secretive habitats, so we were thrilled to see this one as well as we did. It ended up winning the coveted Bird Of The Day award from both Laura and I. 

Streak-breasted Treehunter - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Streak-breasted Treehunter - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

This click beetle was certainly eye-catching!

Semiotus sp. - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

By the time that we had reached the ultimate waterfall, the weekend crowds started to appear. We slowly retraced our steps back down towards the entrance, dodging groups of youths who were blasting music as they walked to drown out the sounds of the forest. (Yes, I am a grumpy old man, how could you tell?)

Cascada #3 - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

We added a few more birds on the walk back down, including Philadelphia Vireo and Spangle-cheeked Tanager. We also called in a Silvery-fronted Tapaculo and enjoyed (relatively) good views of it, though I was unable to obtain any photos once again. Tapaculos are tough.

One of the last species I photographed was a pair of Prong-billed Barbets near the bottom of the trail. 

Prong-billed Barbet - Las Tres Cascadas, Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama

Our time in Boquete was done. My next post will document our time in Cerro Punta on the northwestern flank of Volcán Barú. 

Foothill And Wetland Birding: Altos De Campana, Ciénaga De Las Macanas

Two days in Panama City were enough for Laura and I, and by mid-morning on September 30 we had picked up our rental car from the Albrook domestic airport. Many visitors to Panama rent their vehicles from the Tocumen international airport, and I have in the past without issue, but everything you read online details the horror stories of having to pay for scratches that were already there, being up-sold insurance, etc. We rented from National at Albrook and our experience has been great so far (as was the price). 

Laura and I have rented the car for 19 days, giving us ample time to explore numerous areas in western Panama. First on the agenda: six nights in the western highlands, staying three nights each in Boquete and Cerro Punta. The Talamancan range, shared with Costa Rica, provides outstanding birding and naturalizing opportunities, as well as fresh mountain air. I'm not sure which of the above we were more excited for after a week in the humid lowlands.

Rufous Mourner - PN Altos de Campana, Panama

To break up the drive west we overnighted in the basic but inexpensive Hotel Carisabel in the town of Aguadulce. That way, we would be within shooting distance of a fantastic wetland called Ciénega de las Macanas, a location which is occasionally visited by Panamanian birders but rarely by international visitors. 

On September 30 we had a few hours free during the midday during our drive to Aguadulce. We chose to stop at the conveniently located Parque Nacional Altos de Campana, ostensibly to search for birds but also to break up the drive. Even though the trails are only in the foothills, the temperatures were noticeably cooler than the lowlands; a welcome relief.

A forest track at PN Altos de Campana, Panama

Parque Nacional Altos de Campana was a site that I had never visited before but I can highly recommend it for anyone visiting this part of Panama. While it doesn't hold many of the "high-target" species that visiting birders target in Panama, it has a solid trail system through beautiful forest and the birding can be quite excellent. We did not come across any other people during our visit, and in a mere two hours (at midday) we tallied around 60 species. 

White-ruffed Manakins were common, a group of Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers passed by, and mixed flocks were frequent. At one point we saw both Long-billed and Tawny-faced Gnatwren only a few metres away, while a little while later a Middle American Leaftosser was spotted, tossing leaves beside the quiet forest trail we were on. 

White-ruffed Manakin (female) - PN Altos de Campana, Panama

At one point I heard some commotion in the trees above and, after some patience, saw the telltale yellow spectacles of a Yellow-eared Toucanet peering back at me. I went up the slippery hillside after the two toucanets (fourcanets?), while Laura stayed back at the road and enjoyed crippling views of Black-chested Jays. I was successful in my endeavour and managed to obtain better views (and some record shots) of the toucanets. Success.

Yellow-eared Toucanet - PN Altos de Campana, Panama

Other highlights included Northern Schiffornis, a circling White-tailed Hawk, Plain and Spot-crowned Antvireos, a calling Black Hawk-Eagle, and Collared Trogons. In this part of Panama the male Collared Trogons have orange bellies (not red), and for a while they were considered a separate species called the Orange-bellied Trogon. In recent years the authorities that be have determined that these are better classified as a subspecies as Collared Trogon. We saw one female and heard a few individuals during our short foray into the park. 

"Orange-bellied" Collared Trogon - PN Altos de Campana, Panama

A big mixed flock near the end of our walk included Northern Schiffornis, Rufous Mourner, Rufous Motmot and a nice variety of ant-things. 

Rufous Mourner - PN Altos de Campana, Panama

With a bird list well over 300 species, Altos de Campana is certainly a place worth visiting. If we had more time, or had visited at a better time of day, perhaps Black-crowned Antpitta or Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo would have been possible.

October 1, 2021

Laura and I arose at 0 dark 30. We were in the lowlands, after all, and a very early start is necessary to fully maximize the birding opportunities before the heat of the mid-morning shuts things down. As Yogi Berra allegedly said, it gets late early out there. 

Ringed Kingfisher - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

Our morning's excursion was to El Ciénaga de las Macanas. This wetland complex is located around 30 minutes to the southwest of Aguadulce, near the mouth of the Río Santa María. Local farmers are allowed to draw water, while regulated fishing also takes place here. But for naturalists, the wetland is an important area for large numbers of ducks, herons, rallids, and other species. 

 Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

We arrived not long after dawn and walked from the parking area for a short distance to where a small boardwalk had been built at the edge of the marsh. Some of the more obvious species were quickly tallied - Wattled Jacanas, Purple Gallinules, and skeins of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks overhead. 

Wattled Jacana - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

 Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

We tallied most of the expected heron-types, as well as few slightly more unusual species such as Wood Stork, Black-crowned Night-Heron and Striated Heron. Several Limpkins provided great views in the marsh, while a nice diversity of raptors were present: Common Black Hawk, Savanna Hawk, Osprey, White-tailed Kite among the numerous Snail Kites. 

Osprey - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

A Spectacled Caiman kept the jacanas and gallinules on their toes. It glided up to one jacana, though its cover was blown at the last second. It is not easy being a plump marsh bird in a caiman-filled wetland!

Spectacled Caiman - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

During the winter months, Ciénaga de Las Macanas can be a treasure trove of waterfowl with scarce northern species searched for among the masses of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks. We were a little too early in the season; the only other duck I tallied was a slightly early Lesser Scaup.

Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

Low flocks of Brown-throated Parakeets buzzed by. An attractive bird when properly lit by the morning's rays. 

Brown-throated Parakeets - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

While our attention was mostly focused on the wetland birds, the scrubby edges also held a number of species. Highlights included a locally scarce (but range-expanding) Mourning Dove, a vocalizing Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, a flyover Dickcissel, and a nice look at a Rufous-browed Peppershrike. The Red-crowned Woodpecker is a common species on the Pacific side of Panama, but they were fun to watch through the scope at very close range. 

Red-crowned Woodpecker - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

Even a young Magnificent Frigatebird effortlessly cruised by overhead. They always seem so out of place when an ocean is not visible in the immediate vicinity. 

Magnificent Frigatebird - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

The super common birds deserve some love, too. This Black Vulture was looking particularly sinister, drying its wings of the morning dew from a tall snag. 

Black Vulture - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

A Cattle Egret, on a horse. 

Cattle Egret - Ciénaga de las Macanas, Herrera, Panama

We had lingered long enough and with a long drive ahead of us, Laura and I hit the road. Next, the highlands...