October 19, 2025 (continued)
Where I last left off, we had just departed the CaƱo Hondo area in northeastern Dominican Republic, not even 24 hours after arriving in the country. Today's agenda was to drive, and drive, and drive; all the way to the mountains in the southwest. 
One week is not nearly enough time to do justice to the Dominican Republic from a naturalist's perspective. Heck, there are around 50 species of anoles, and it would likely take years to find all of them! But birders, if they are lucky, can find all of the endemic bird species in just a week's time. All but one of them (the Ridgway's Hawk) reside in the southwestern corner of the country. And so that is where we headed. With our Ridgway's Hawk already in the bag, we hoped to finish the endemic sweep in the upcoming days. 
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| Two-spotted Prepona (Archaeoprepona demophoon) - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
To break up the drive we detoured to the Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens. Traffic in the capital was relatively painless as it was a Sunday. But there was a long line of cars waiting to enter the gardens due to an orchid expo that was occurring. Hundreds of Dominicans were leaving with pots full of beautiful orchids. Eventually, we were able to park, pay our entrance fee to the gardens, and leave the throngs of people behind as we took snaking trails towards the back side of the expansive gardens. 
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| Antillean Palm-Swift - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
We had one main bird target here and we found them without any trouble. West Indian Whistling-Ducks are found throughout the Caribbean but they can be surprisingly difficult to bump into. Populations throughout the islands have crashed in recent decades, and the duck is getting difficult to find anywhere. I saw my first ones last March while leading a tour in Jamaica but those ducks were quite distant and the views were poor with the heat haze. However, the Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens is home to several dozen wild West Indian Whistling-Ducks. Surely this is the easiest place in the world to see them. 
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| West Indian Whistling-Duck - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
We found at least nine West Indian Whistling-Ducks along the creek that flows along the eastern edge of the gardens. It was a bit surreal to see these rare ducks up close! Didn't they know that they were supposed to be rare and difficult to see?
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| West Indian Whistling-Duck - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
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| West Indian Whistling-Duck - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
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| West Indian Whistling-Duck - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
This shady creek corridor provided a welcome relief from the scorching sun. Birds were rather numerous back here - Common Gallinules, Least Grebes, various herons, even a Solitary Sandpiper. 
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| Least Grebe - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
Taking a photo without piles of garbage in it was a little bit difficult, though.
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| Green Heron - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
The Least Grebes were clearly thriving as there was nesting evidence all over the place. 
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| Least Grebe on a nest - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
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| Baby Least Grebe - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
We found our first Dominican Sliders, a freshwater turtle that is endemic to the island. Some of the logs were so heavily laden that there was barely an inch to spare. 
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| Dominican Sliders (Trachemys stejnegeri vicina) - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
As expected given the hot and sunny conditions, anoles were rather numerous in the botanical gardens. We managed our first good photos of Bark Anoles and also found another endemic species, the Cordillera Oriental Stout Anole (
Anolis higuey). 
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| Bark Anole (Anolis distichus) - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
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| Cordillera Oriental Stout Anole (Anolis higuey) - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
We found our only Green Iguana of the trip along the creek, too. 
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| Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
Some high pitched calls in the canopy alerted us to some Black-crowned Palm-Tanagers, an endemic species to the island. These aren't "true" tanagers of the family Thraupidae; they are actually in the family Phaenicophilidae along with three other species found only on Hispaniola. 
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| Black-crowned Palm-Tanager - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
Islands are well-known as laboratories for endemic species, since the barrier caused by the open ocean is enough to prevent individuals from adjacent islands to ever cross paths with each other. Over time, these populations become distinct enough from each other since there is no breeding between the populations, and thus, no gene flow. 
Regarding birds, there are 34 species that are widely considered to be endemic to Hispaniola. However, many of the other resident birds have unique races (or subspecies) in Hispaniola; they just haven't been separated long enough from adjacent islands for scientists to consider them different species. The American Kestrel is one example. The individuals in Hispaniola are non-migratory and have a unique look to their plumage. They are currently considered a subspecies of the American Kestrel and are called the Hispaniolan Kestrel. Neighbouring Cuba also has its own resident subspecies, called the Cuban Kestrel. Check back in another million years or so, and these two races may be distinct enough to be considered separate species. 
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| Hispaniolan Kestrel - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
Each year, eBird updates its taxonomy based on current research. This year, one of changes was the split of the Red-legged Thrush, a bird found in the Caribbean which I had seen many times before in Cuba. As I write this after the conclusion of our trip, eBird's annual update is occurring and one of the changes is that the Red-legged Thrush has been split into two species. I didn't know it at the time, but the Red-legged Thrushes that we observed in the Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens were a new species for me, the Eastern Red-legged Thrush! Unfortunately, this is the only photo I managed...
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| Eastern Red-legged Thrush - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
Our walk at the botanical gardens was quite birdy despite the time of day. What was supposed to be a quick stop to see the whistling-ducks turned into a two and a half hour amble. We found a few more birds, including Hispaniolan Parakeet (heard-only), Hispaniolan Lizard-Cuckoo and Greater Antillean Grackle. Dan spotted a male Hooded Warbler which is a familiar species from back home, but one that had only been reported from these gardens a few times previously. It was great visit. 
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| Hispaniolan Lizard-Cuckoo - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
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| Greater Antillean Grackle - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
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| Hooded Warbler - Santo Domingo Botanical Gardens, Dominican Republic | 
A three hour drive still beckoned and so we eventually pulled ourselves away from the gardens. The rest of the drive was uneventful and in the early evening we arrived at our AirBnB in Polo, a town in the foothills. It had been a very full day but we stayed awake long enough to follow along to the end of the Blue Jays game against the Seattle Mariners (they won, forcing a game seven!). I have always been a massive fan of both baseball and the Toronto Blue Jays, so it was killing me a little bit that our trip coincided with the final games of the American League Championship Series. Hopefully the Blue Jays could pull out a win in game 7 the next night to send them to the World Series. 
The morning dawned calm and cool. This was a wonderful change from the previous morning and we enjoyed the crisp air of the foothills. The respite was brief since we would soon be huffing and puffing up a steep slope. 
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| Candy Cane Snail (Liguus virgineus) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
Our destination for the morning was a gravel track called Camino de la Hoz. This rough road cuts through dry forest in the Sierra de Bahoruco, crawling up the mountainside from 590 m in elevation to some communications towers above 1,600 m in elevation.  A 4x4 vehicle could scramble up the loose gravel of this road. But our little Chevrolet SUV was not a 4x4 and certainly not up to the task. And so it fell on us to slog it on foot. 
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| Hispaniolan Pewee - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
The reason we subjected ourselves to such a tough climb was for a bird, of course. The Eastern Chat-Tanager has a limited range in the mountains of the Dominican Republic, where it resides at an elevation band which cannot be reached by good quality road. Most birders who visit here have a guide/driver with a proper 4x4, so seeing the Eastern Chat-Tanager is as simple as getting out of the vehicle and playing a tape for a few seconds. It would not be so easy for us!
I figured that we would have to reach approximately 1,100 m in elevation to have a chance at the chat-tanager. At a minimum, this would require a 500 m gain in elevation, possibly more. 
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| Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
The hike started off well. We were rested and eager for the lifers that lay ahead of us and the first hundred meters in elevation gain was a breeze. We were also seeing new birds for the first time, including our first Flat-billed Vireos. The soundtrack was provided by Hispaniolan Lizard-Cuckoos, Antillean Piculets and Hispaniolan Euphonias, the latter two being new species for us. A pair of Broad-billed Todies and a Hispaniolan Pewee were rather cooperative as well.
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| Flat-billed Vireo - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Broad-billed Tody - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
As we passed the 200 m and then the 300 m mark in elevation gained, we started to lose some steam. The birding remained steady though, and we eventually found a nice mixed flock that contained our first Green-tailed Warblers, a pair of Greater Antillean Bullfinches, and an Antillean Piculet. 
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| Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Green-tailed Warbler - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
Though they would be a common voice throughout the trip, the Antillean Piculets were entirely unresponsive to tape and this would be the only one we would see. 
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| Antillean Piculet - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
I mentioned the todies in the previous post and how there are only five species in this family, all restricted to the Greater Antilles. Jamaica, Cuba and Puerto Rico each have one species, while two todies live in Hispaniola. We had already seen the lowland species called the Broad-billed Tody, but here at Camino de la Hoz, the mountain-loving Narrow-billed Tody can also be found. Apart from preferring higher elevations, the Narrow-billed can be easily told apart due to its white iris and narrower bill. 
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| Narrow-billed Tody - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Narrow-billed Tody - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
We kept climbing up and up, sweating as the sun crested over a ridge and shone directly on us. The bird life was quieting down and our slow birding pace meant that we were still below the proper elevation for the Eastern Chat-Tanager. Vervain Hummingbirds were one of the few species that were readily apparent here, and we found over a dozen during the course of the morning. By virtue of being a millimeter or two larger than the Bee Hummingbird, the Vervain Hummingbird lives in obscurity while the Bee Hummingbird is famous for being the smallest bird species in the world. 
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| Vervain Hummingbird - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
During our frequent rest breaks Dan and I photographed the butterflies which had become numerous along the track. 
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| Calisto sp. - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Hispaniolan Great King (Anetia pantheratus pantheratus) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Lime Swallowtail (Papilio demoleus) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
Unfortunately, the Eastern Chat-Tanagers were not as easy here as I envisioned, even once we were safely within the suitable elevation band. My frequent trawling produced no hits. I worried that we were going to have a rather painful dip of this endemic species. 
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| Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Stolid Flycatcher - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
The hot sun and steep climb had done a number on Laura and so she rested in a shady area at the side of the road. Dan and I continued further, hoping to connect with the chat-tanager higher up. Not five minutes later we found a gorgeous Hispaniolan Spindalis in a fruiting tree, which necessitated a call to Laura as this was one of her most wanted species for the trip. Luckily, the spindalis hung around for great views. 
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| Hispaniolan Spindalis - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Hispaniolan Spindalis - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
Dan and I kept climbing and finally hit pay-dirt at 1,260 m in elevation (around 670 m higher than the start of our walk). We both managed poor but diagnostic views of a pair of Eastern Chat-Tanagers while we also took some decent recordings. They were being very shy though, and photos were not possible. But hey, a tick is a tick, I guess. 
A male Hispaniolan Emerald in this area was another new species for us. 
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| Hispaniolan Emerald - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
A pickup truck soon passed us along the road, the first one of the morning. Of course it happened to run over a beautiful Cope's Antilles Snake just a few meters down the road from us. What unfortunate timing.
We returned to Laura who was starting to feel much better after a rest and some water. She was not really in the mood to climb another 100 m or so in elevation to search for the Eastern Chat-Tanagers that Dan and I had just seen. Instead, she was happy to start back down the mountain. 
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| Black-crowned Palm-Tanager - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
By now, it was mid-day and the butterflies were out in full force!
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| Great Southern White (Ascia monuste) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Caribbean Daggerwing (Marpesia eleuchea) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Antillean Snout (Libytheana terena) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
The walk back down was a little bit easier in some regards, but more difficult in others. It was less of a cardio workout but instead was tough on our quadriceps and calf muscles. The warm temperatures and direct sun didn't help matters, either. But we slowly made progress and by early afternoon had made it back down to the vehicle. Though the birding and butterflying had been good, and the scenery was wonderful, we were all very happy that this hike was now behind us! 
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| Desert Stout Anole (Anolis aridius) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
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| Unidentified bee fly (subfamily Anthracinae) - Camino de la Hoz, Barahona, Dominican Republic | 
That afternoon we made the short drive over to Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, our base for the next two nights. Surely many new birds, lizards, and snakes awaited us.