Otún Quimbaya

Next up was a visit to Otún Quimbaya, a reserve that encompasses a swath of forest alongside the raging Río Otún. This too was a place that I had visited for a night in 2015 and I was excited to return!

Just before crossing through a gate to enter the reserve, we got out of the van to stretch our legs at a bridge that traversed the river. Despite the mid-day temperatures, the birding was excellent and three riverine specialties appeared – White-capped Dipper, Torrent Tyrannulet and a pair of exquisite Torrent Ducks. We watched the duo navigate the turbid waters with ease. 

Torrent Ducks - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Otún Quimbaya is famous among birders as an easy place to find the endemic and range-restricted Cauca Guan, a species which numbers only in the hundreds. Fortunately, they are common in the reserve and around the lodging. We noticed quite a few while we relaxed during our first afternoon/evening. 

Cauca Guan - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Cauca Guan - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Cauca Guan - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Cauca Guan - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Red-ruffed Fruitcrows are another one of the target birds here at the reserve and they too are very easy to find around the lodge clearing and along the entrance road. Taking good photos, on the other hand, was a bit trickier and I did not come away with any excellent ones. 

Red-ruffed Fruitcrow - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Surrounded by lush vegetation, this clearing is an excellent location to view tanagers, chlorophonias, and flycatchers, while raptors occasionally soared overhead. This Yellow-bellied Seedeater was quite tame, ignoring the onlookers in its quest to eat as many seeds as possible. 

Yellow-bellied Seedeater - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Yellow-bellied Seedeater - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

We birded the road for around three hours in the morning before we had to depart for our next destination. Luckily we had an early start since a cavalcade of cyclists began to appear in droves as the morning wore on. It is apparently a very popular route! But we enjoyed sifting through mixed flocks, or even just listening to the sounds of the forest. 

Tawny-bellied Hermit - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Cauca Guan - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Quite a few bird species that are endemic to Colombia can be found at Otún;  in addition to the Cauca Guan, we encountered Multicolored Tanager, Stile’s Tapaculo, Parker’s Antbird and Chestnut Wood-Quail on our morning walk, with some of these species heard-only. The Stile’s bucked the trend for tapaculos and appeared alongside the trail, allowing great looks and even some poor photos!

Stile's Tapaculo - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Of course there were many other non-avian species to train our binoculars on. A family group of Colombian Red Howlers passed through the cecropias above us while a South American Coati shuffled across the road, disappearing into the adjacent vegetation. The much hoped for Mountain Tapir refused to materialize, unfortunately. 

Colombian Red Howler Monkey - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Colombian Red Howler Monkey - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

We noted two species of Anolis during our walk. Anton's Anole (A. antonii) and the vividly patterned Speckled Anole (A. ventrimaculatus).

Speckled Anole (Anolis ventrimaculatus) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

This interesting insect is Cyrtonota moderata, a type of tortoise beetle that Laura spotted on some roadside vegetation. 

Cyrtonota moderata - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Laura and I always joke that all parrots and parakeets are black, since they always appear that way when heavily backlit against a white sky (the only way we seem to see most of them). But a small flock of Golden-plumed Parakeets obliged the group by landing in some nearby trees to feed. An awesome species, and so good to finally have the opportunity to study its plumage up close (and to see the actual colours!). 

Golden-plumed Parakeet - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Laura and I led a very productive night-hike after dinner. We only went a short distance down the road from the lodge but came away with many great sightings. For some the highlight was the eye-level view of a Colombian Screech-Owl, though for me it was undoubtedly this tiny snake which I am still trying to work out the identification of. I think it is in the genus Atractus.

Atractus sp. (tentative) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Atractus sp. (tentative) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Below are a few invertebrates and amphibians that we came across as well. 

Long-horned Beetle (Cerambycidae) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Stick Insect (Phasmida) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Pristimantis sp. - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Stick Insect (Phasmida) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Pristimantis sp. - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Dung Beetle (Scarabaeinae) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Laevicaulis alte - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Compsus sp. - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Anton's Anole (Anolis antonii) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

We also set up our moth sheet for a few hours in the evening. The temperatures dropped lower than I anticipated and there was also a bit of a breeze, which combined to keep the numbers down. But of course there were a few interesting things!

Hylesia nanus - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Crambid Snout Moth (Crambidae) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Eois sp. - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Cutworm Moth (Noctuidae) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Soldier Beetle (Cantharidae) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Lichen Moth (Lithosiini) - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Glyphodes extorris - Otún Quimbaya, Risaralda, Colombia

Hacienda El Bosque - Antpittas and Mountain-Toucans!

The Crescent-faced Antpitta is a little-known species with a restricted global distribution, found in the Andes of northern Ecuador to central Colombia. It prefers bamboo thickets near the tree-line and, similar to its congeners, is very skulky and difficult to find. Recently however, some enterprising individuals at Hacienda La Bosque near Manizales have been able to coax a pair of these enigmatic birds to visit a feeding station. For around a year and a half, many birders have visited to view this species for the first time – and during the morning of January 25, that is what our group hoped to do as well!

Hacienda El Bosque is well-run and set up perfectly for birders. Upon arrival we were given hot drinks before being transported via pickup truck about 7 minutes up a dirt track to a ridge line flanked by cattle pastures. 

Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

First on the agenda was an antpitta feeding station in a valley to the north of the ridge where Rufous Antpittas commonly visit. It was a chilly morning as we traversed the path leading down to the creek, but the sun was shining. Anticipation levels were high among the group. 

Eared Dove - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

A pair of Gray-breasted Mountain-Tanagers were spotted along our walk and we all enjoyed excellent scope views of the individuals. But even better – they flew in to feed in one of the closer trees, and then came even closer. Eventually we were soaking up “face-melting” views of this incredible species. 

Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

While we waited for the Rufous Antpittas to appear a nice variety of hummingbirds attended the nearby feeder including Black-thighed Puffleg and Sword-billed Hummingbird. But eventually the antpittas appeared at the edge of the clearing.

However, a few Gray-browed Brushfinches clearly knew the routine as well – the local guide appeased the brushfinches with some fat grabs while we waited for the Rufous Antpittas to work up enough courage. 

Rufous Antpitta - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Gray-browed Brushfinch - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Rufous Antpitta - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Some people have reservations about antpitta feeding stations. This is often due to concerns that these individuals are habituated and may eventually lose their sense of “wildness” and perhaps their abilities to feed and fend for themselves in the wild. As far as I am concerned, these feeding stations are a great idea since the alternative involves scores of birders tromping through habitats and blasting tape all day long in certain areas in an attempt to sight the rarest antpitta species. Might as well have one or two “sacrificial” antpittas, which allows the other ones to remain unmolested. 

Rufous Antpitta - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

We had our fill of the Rufous Antpittas (and they had their fill of the worms), meaning it was time for the main attraction. We crossed back over the ridge, seeing a Merlin along the way, and stationed ourselves at the Crescent-faced Antpitta station. 

It was almost too easy! Within a minute or two of our arrival, a pair of beautiful little antpittas hopped up into view in a small clearing below us. 

Crescent-faced Antpitta - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

It was unreal to be finally laying eyes on this species after several unsuccessful searches in other areas, and many longing glances at its page in various field guides. We watched in awe as the antpittas fed while keeping one eye warily on their audience. 

Crescent-faced Antpitta - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

Crescent-faced Antpitta - Hacienda El Bosque, Caldas, Colombia

We enjoyed another round of hot drinks, found some Paramo Seedeaters (another scarce species that is pretty reliable here) and called in a Barred Fruiteater. We finished off our morning by walking a trail back to the main hacienda that cut through some montane forest. A little mixed flock contained Blue-backed Conebill, Capped Conebill, White-banded Tyrannulet, Pearled Treerunner and more. 

We sipped on some more hot drinks at the hacienda, checked out the feeders there, and hit the road. Next up on our agenda – Otún Quimbaya.

Reserva Ecologica Río Blanco

Reserva Ecologica Río Blanco, located just a few kilometers from the bustling city of Manizales, was originally created to protect the water supply of the city. This is a fantastic idea that is not only good for the citizens of Manizales but also for the environment. All told, just under 5,000 hectares are protected at Río Blanco within the central cordillera of the Andes. A large altitudinal gradient is covered by the reserve, protecting a variety of different ecosystems. Despite its close proximity to Manizales it sure felt like we were hundreds of kilometres from civilization, surrounded by rich tropical forests and an abundance of bird life.

Andean Squirrel - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Río Blanco is perhaps most famous among birdwatchers due to the diversity of antpitta species that often come into feeding stations to take earthworms. Upon arrival we met our local guide for the day - Daniel - and right away walked only a few meters to the edge of the forest where the first antpitta of the day would be searched for.

It took around 15 minutes of waiting while we heard the Bicolored Antpitta vocalize, each time coming a little bit closer. While waiting, we enjoyed the sounds of the forest in the early morning - a Barred Becard, a pair of Rusty-faced Parrots flying over, several tapaculo species and a Streak-headed Antbird as well. But soon, the star of the show appeared at the edge of the small clearing and quickly scarfed down a few of the worms. A minute later and it was gone.

Bicolored Antpitta - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

We slowly ambled up the gravel track that runs through the reserve. A group of Sharpe's Wren paraded through the undergrowth, as did some Black-capped Hemispingus and Gray-hooded Bush-Tanagers.

Sharpe's Wren - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

It is not just the antpittas at Río Blanco that have been tamed. This male Green-and-black Fruiteater happily took some worms from Daniel's hand.

Green-and-black Fruiteater - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Green-and-black Fruiteater - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

We visited two more antpitta feeding stations, hoping for Chestnut-crowned, the endemic Brown-breasted, and Slate-crowned Antpittas. Antpittas appeared at both locations but each time, they happened to be Brown-breasted. Meanwhile, we heard several Chestnut-crowned but neither they nor any Slate-crowned appeared. Speaking of "heard-only", a Tawny-breasted Tinamou sounded off down the ridge, a species I had never encountered before.

Brown-breasted Antpitta - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

For much of the morning we explored the lush forests, seeing many bird species along the way. Río Blanco is also well-known as a place where mixed flocks of birds are very frequent. We enjoyed these pulses of frenzied birding on a few occasions and attempted to get our binoculars on as many of the tanagers, furnariids, warblers and woodpeckers as possible while they quickly moved through. Photography was put to the side during these moments - if you pause to take a photo you will undoubtedly miss three or four other birds.

White-tailed Tyrannulet - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

The Andean Guans on the other hand could be enjoyed at a slower pace!

Andean Guan - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

At one point, a Purple-backed Thornbill appeared at the tip of a bare branch, allowing good looks (though it was too backlit for anything more than 'record' photos). This species exhibits the shortest beak relative to body size of any hummingbird!

Purple-backed Thornbill - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

During the slow moments between mixed flocks we could take a closer look at the flowers, beetles, and other interesting species found in the forest. Below is Kohleria affinis, followed by a type of flea beetle known as Aspicela unipunctata. 

Kohleria affinis - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Aspicela unipunctata - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

One of the more highly sought after bird species found at Río Blanco is the Masked Saltator. This beautiful and boldly patterned species is very thinly distributed in the Andes and is classified as Near-Threatened. We lucked out with several sightings including this pair. I botched the photos since I was trying to point them out with my laser pointer in one hand, while taking the photos with the other!

Masked Saltators - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Below are a few more things that I photographed during our morning walk. We had seen over 70 species of birds by the time that we turned around to walk back to the lodge for lunch.

Masked Trogon - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Masked Trogon - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Begonia sp. - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Andean Motmot - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Lunch was fantastic - one of the best ones of the trip - and dessert was the opportunity to enjoy the endless stream of hummingbirds attending the numerous feeders.

Collared Inca - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Long-tailed Sylph - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

As is typical in the Andes, a few flowerpiercers were sneaking around the flowers, searching for nectar. White-sided Flowerpiercer was the common one here.

White-sided Flowerpiercer - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

We headed down the road in the afternoon for a few more hours to see what else we could turn up. The birding was a little slower due to the time of the day, but that just meant that the butterflies could be enjoyed instead.

Perisama oppelii - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Perisama oppelii - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

Pedaliodes sp. - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

I spotted a group of Red-hooded Tanagers high up in some bare branches - just a stunning species. Fortunately they hung around long enough for us to get the scope on them for the group! This is another species that can be rather scarce throughout its range in the Andes.

Red-hooded Tanager - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

We finished off our day at a river near the entrance of the reserve where a pair of White-capped Dippers appeared. Awesome!

White-capped Dipper - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

We enjoyed numerous additions to our day list here, eventually reaching 100 species. Below is a Pale-edged Flycatcher.

Pale-edged Flycatcher - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia

One of my favourite birds of the day was this Chocó Daggerbill that appeared at some nearby flowers. This scarce species rarely comes in to feeders and can be tricky to view well. It was a great way to close out an excellent day!

Chocó Daggerbill - Reserva Natural Río Blanco, Caldas, Colombia