Explorations of an Ecologist: Los Nevados Páramo Birding and Termales Del Ruiz Hummingbirds

Thursday, 6 February 2020

Los Nevados Páramo Birding and Termales Del Ruiz Hummingbirds

Following our two days in the Bogotá area to kick off our tour, we took an internal flight west to the Central Andes and the city of Pereira. We were all looking a little bleary-eyed for our 6 AM flight, but the early morning paid off a few hours later as we entered the páramo of Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados. Named for the snow-capped peaks of the volcanoes found within its borders, the national park is one of the gems of the central Andes of Colombia.

PNN Los Nevados, Tolima, Colombia

We drove up the mostly paved road, marvelling at the scenery along the way. Our first stop was the Visitor's Center at the entrance to the park where the above photo was taken. Bird activity was a little lower because it was now late morning, but with patience we teased out of the woodwork some Plumbeous Sierra-Finches and Pale-naped Brushfinches. A Sedge Wren sang occasionally; later, one perched in the open for us, eyeing us up.

Sedge Wren - PNN Los Nevados, Tolima, Colombia

We began our search for Buffy Helmetcrest. This species is closely related to the Green-bearded Helmetcrest which we found in Bogotá, though it is restricted to the area around PNN Los Nevados in the central cordillera. Two further species of helmetcrests are found in different areas - the Blue-bearded in the Santa Marta mountains and the White-bearded in northwestern Venezuela.

The Buffy Helmetcrests were a no-show, possibly due to the time of day (the only hummingbird was a Viridian Metaltail). But a fantastic consolation prize was a huge shape gliding over us and heading down the mountain. An Andean Condor! Only a few pairs of condors are found in these mountains and so we did not think our chances were particularly high. Awesome!

Other birds came out of the shrubbery while we scanned for birds from the balcony of the Visitor's Center. A White-chinned Thistletail provided rare, unobscured views as it foraged on the ground mere meters away. This is a species that I had only seen once before (though I had heard it on a few occasions).

White-chinned Thistletail - PNN Los Nevados, Tolima, Colombia

For a solid minute or too, the thistletail lifted its right wing straight up into the air and held it there. I have no idea why!

White-chinned Thistletail - PNN Los Nevados, Tolima, Colombia

A pair of Andean Tit-Spinetails also appeared, though they stuck to the thick cover. Another species which is far more often heard than seen.

Andean Tit-Spinetail - PNN Los Nevados, Tolima, Colombia

Giving up with the helmetcrest, we backtracked down the mountain to scan some fields for Andean Lapwings and whatever else we could find. The lapwings were a no-show but a Noble Snipe was watched through the scope at the muddy edge of a field.

Noble Snipe - near Laguna Negra, Caldas, Colombia

Nearby at a slightly lower elevation lies the Termales del Ruíz Hot Springs and Resort. While many people visit for the hot springs, it is also famous among birders for the hummingbird feeder set-up. Surrounded by misty elfin forest, the feeders attract many of the representative hummingbird species of the area, including the highly sought after Rainbow-bearded Thornbill.

The most obvious hummingbird species when one first arrives is Shining Sunbeam, as hordes of these try their hardest to guard the feeders from everyone else. In poor light they appear a dull brownish-orange, but at the right angle the brilliant rainbow iridescence of their back can be appreciated.

Shining Sunbeam - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

They were not shy, posing even for cell-phone photos!

Laura and a Shining Sunbeam - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Two species of pufflegs frequent these feeders - the Black-thighed and Golden-breasted Pufflegs. Here are two photos from a previous trip of mine to the hot springs in 2015.

Black-thighed Puffleg - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Golden-breasted Puffleg - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

We noted a few other birds - a small group of Lacrimose Mountain-Tanagers and a single Hooded Mountain-Tanager that passed through the trees, a few White-throated Tyrannulets (always expected at this elevation), and several Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers making use of a fruit feeder.

Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

White-throated Tyrannulet - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Two Mountain Wrens scurried through as well. They were more difficult to capture on digital media.

Mountain Wren - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Termales del Ruiz is famous for the opportunity to hand-feed the hummingbirds - popular with birders and muggles alike! By holding little discs of sugar water, if you are lucky a hummingbird will land on your hand and take a sip. The Shining Sunbeams were frequent customers, but we also attracted Great Sapphirewing, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill and Golden-breasted Puffleg.

Hand-feeding a Shining Sunbeam - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Hand-feeding a Golden-breasted Puffleg (left) and Rainbow-bearded Thornbill - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Hand-feeding a Great Sapphirewing - Hotel Termales del Ruíz, Caldas, Colombia

Speaking of Rainbow-bearded Thornbills. While none of the arresting males with their multicoloured beards could be found, at least two females and a young male were frequent attendees at the feeders.