Colombia's Desert

The arid climes of the Guajira Peninsula in far northern Colombia provided a stark contrast to the "eternal spring" that we experienced in the mountains of Medellín. We flew to the city of Santa Marta in Magdalena province for the final leg of our tour, which included what was the highlight for many, including myself - the Santa Marta mountains. But the diversity of ecoregions in this part of Colombia extends beyond just the massif. Desierto de La Guajira (the Guajira Desert) can be found north of the Santa Marta mountains, extending into neighbouring Venezuela. It was at the edge of the desert near the town of Camerones where we spent a full morning, seeking out signs of life in the parched landscape.

We enjoyed our hearty field breakfast as the landscape lightened, with the sun still a little below the horizon. Distant flocks of waterbirds flew from their roosts to the productive estuary nearby. The first songs rang out from the scrub - Pale-legged Hornero, Tropical Mockingbird, Bicolored Wren. A Peregrine Falcon perched on a distant communications tower, watching the spectacular sunrise (or perhaps, just the birds that were thus illuminated).

Peregrine Falcon - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

We set off on foot as the sun crept above the horizon, enjoying the relatively cool temperatures that the early hour afforded. This would change relatively quickly and though while we enjoyed the morning and wanted to linger with each discovery, a sense of urgency lingered in our minds.

The birding was spectacular during the initial hours of the day as every bird in the landscape was active. We enjoyed excellent views of many species. Many were clad in grays and browns, matching the landscape.

White-whiskered Spinetail - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Tropical Gnatcatcher - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Yellow-breasted Flycatcher - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

While I could only manage some distant, slightly out-of-focus photos, these Chestnut Piculets were a highlight. This species' global range includes the drier regions of northern Colombia and adjacent Venezuela. And who doesn't love piculets, the smallest of woodpeckers? They always seem to go for the tiniest twigs, ones that a "normal" woodpecker wouldn't dare to perch on.

Chestnut Piculet - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Not all the birds lacked colour. This Yellow Oriole could not be missed when it alighted on a dry, leafless branch.

Yellow Oriole - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

A few pairs of handsome White-fringed Antbirds skulked in the low branches. A stunning little bird, and a "bird-of-the-day" candidate for some.

White-fringed Antwren - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

The temperatures warmed quickly but one by one we kept finding new species. Slender-billed and Pale-tipped Tyrannulets. Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant. Straight-billed Woodpecker. Russet-throated Puffbird. Trinidad Euphonia. A Brown-crested Flycatcher flew in to investigate the intruders to its territory.

Brown-crested Flycatcher - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Of course, the rapidly warming temperatures pulled several lizards out of hiding. This pretty gecko is Gonatodes vittatus, a species found from the dry forests of northern Colombia east to Trinidad and Guyana.

Gonatodes vittatus - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

But the star of the show had yet to reveal itself. It was on our walk back to the bus when the first Vermilion Cardinal appeared - a female, unmistakeable with that crazy red "hairdo". Soon, a male appeared as well.

Vermilion Cardinal - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

These cardinals look a little like our familiar Northern Cardinal but on steroids. The Vermilion Cardinal is one of at least a dozen regional endemic species that we were lucky to cross paths with this morning. A fitting end to a highly successful walk!

Vermilion Cardinal - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

It was only just after 9 AM but the sun was already scorching the landscape, causing many of the smaller birds to take cover and become more difficult to find. We headed into Camarones and parked near the estuary, armed with optical gear to point at the many waders and terns. They had nowhere to hide during the hot part of the day.

A pair of American Oystercatchers provided a nice study, and we watched one catch not oysters, but a  small crab. Shorebird numbers were in general fairly low but we eventually found Short-billed Dowitcher, Western Sandpiper, Sanderling and a few others.

American Oystercatcher - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

This interesting pink ibis was scrutinized by the group as it patrolled the mudflats. It was not quite a Scarlet Ibis and certainly was no White Ibis. It is most likely a cross between the two closely related species. We saw another one that was almost completely white with just a hint of pink tinge to its plumage - probably a backcross of some sort.

White x Scarlet Ibis - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

A Gray Kingbird was one of the few songbirds active in the hot weather, along with the ubiquitous grackles (both species) and Bananaquits, of course.

Gray Kingbird - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

A few Ospreys coursed over, as did several Laughing Gulls. Speaking of larids, we also scoped Caspian, Royal, Common and Sandwich Terns, as well as a flock of Black Skimmers.

Osprey - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Laughing Gull - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

With our eBird checklist growing and our stomachs growling, it was time to head over to the lunch spot. Here, a fantastic feeder setup provides an opportunity to watch many species, including a few of the regional endemic birds. Buffy Hummingbirds came to the sugar water, while both Orinocan Saltators and Vermilion Cardinals attended the other feeders. 

Buffy Hummingbird - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Orinocan Saltator - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Vermilion Cardinal - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Bananaquits monopolized the fruit feeders, but sometimes a Bicolored Wren snuck in for a few bites.

Bananaquits - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Bicolored Wren - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

This yard happened to be an excellent lizard watching spot as well, with four species identified.The next species pictured is Dusky Giant Ameiva (Ameiva praesignis); a truly impressive specimen indeed. 

Dusky Giant Ameiva (Ameiva praesignis) - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Gaige's Rainbow Lizard (Cnemidophorus gaigei) - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

We enjoyed watching a dozen pretty Scaled Doves as well as a Rufous-tailed Jacamar that hung around for a few minutes. But soon our meals arrived. I ordered the shrimp (of course!) and it was delicious. It had been a perfect day!

Scaled Dove - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

Rufous-tailed Jacamar - Camarones, La Guajira, Colombia

My next post will cover our time in the Santa Marta mountains.