An Afternoon In Birding Paradise

Nestled on the lower slopes of Volcán Barú of western Panama is the well-named Birding Paradise. This beautiful property is situated in the countryside along a fast-flowing river, and the surrounding gardens and forest are home to a whole host of bird species. This community is called Paraíso (translated in English as "paradise", fittingly), located in the District of Boquerón and Province of Chiriquí. While cattle grazing is a primary land use in Boquerón, the land owners have preserved a large amount of gallery forest.

Due to the elevation of Birding Paradise (around 900 m), lowland and lower montane species converge. A number of regional endemic species can also be found; birds that occur in the Pacific lowlands of Costa Rica that just squeak over the border into western Panama. The local contact for Birding Paradise is Mishael Rivera, and he has documented well over 300 species of birds on the property. The current tally on eBird is 334 species!

Lesson's Motmot - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

When I last blogged, Laura and I were deep in the steamy Panamanian lowlands near the town of Gamboa. Since then we have traveled westward, spending some time in the montane town of Boquete; I will blog about these adventures at some point. But yesterday we drove our rental car around Volcán Barú (the highest point in Panama), from Boquete to Cerro Punta. I was eager to make a stop at Birding Paradise due to its excellent location and savoury bird species list. 

Scarlet-rumped Tanager - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Laura and I had some things to take care of in the town of Boquete and city of David this morning, meaning that we arrived at Birding Paradise only shortly before midday. While the temperatures at this elevation are a lot more reasonable than the lowlands, bird activity does trickle off as the morning moves along and an early visit is highly recommended. Nevertheless, Mishael made sure that we had an enjoyable experience with a ton of really great birds. 

One of the first birds that we pointed our binoculars at was the scarce Costa Rican Brushfinch. One was perched beside the house upon our arrival! The Costa Rican Brushfinch was a sort of nemesis of mine; a species I had never connected with and one of my few potential "life birds" in western Panama. What a way to start our visit!

Costa Rican Brushfinch - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

You could not miss the Lesson's Motmots that hung around the property. They were not shy either, eager for Mishael to provide the snack of ripe papaya. 

Lesson's Motmot - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Motmots often sit still and rock their tails back and forth like a pendulum, a motion referred to as a wag-display. Research has indicated that motmots perform this display to communicate a threat to other motmots. 

Lesson's Motmot - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

The gardens were full of birds and soon we had added Yellowish Flycatcher, Slaty Spinetail, Orange-collared Manakin, Black-striped Sparrow, Blue Dacnis, Garden Emerald and much more to our list. I had never photographed a Garden Emerald before, so I was happy to grab a few distant, backlit photos. 

Garden Emerald - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

A wide terrace on the upper level provides an excellent view of many of the nearby trees, while the river valley can be seen below. Hummingbird feeders dot the periphery of the terrace. During our visit the hummingbird feeders were not particularly active; Mishael explained that there were a lot of flowering plants at the moment and so fewer hummingbirds were using the feeders. We missed our hoped for Charming Hummingbird, but still enjoyed a Long-billed Starthroat, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, and numerous Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds. Mishael has noted 26(!) species of hummingbirds on the property, including highly desirable species like Veraguan Mango, White-crested Coquette and White-tipped Sicklebill. 

Scaly-breasted Hummingbird - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

One of the more difficult birds that we encountered was the Costa Rican Swift. This species is rarely reported in Panama but Mishael sees them frequently on the property. A small swift wheeling overhead drew our attention; I was able to take some photos that show the telltale pale rump to separate it from the similar Vaux's Swift (see my eBird checklist for the poor-quality diagnostic photos) . This was a species I had only seen briefly before in the Osa Peninsula of Costa Rica so I was pretty happy to obtain some identifiable photos, as poor as they are. 

Costa Rican Swift - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

The regional endemic species kept coming. Next up was a male Spot-crowned Euphonia, partaking in the fresh papaya. 

Spot-crowned Euphonia - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

After we had had our fill at the feeders, Mishael took us on a path down to the river in search of a few more target species - Riverside Wren, Black-hooded Antshrike and Chiriqui Foliage-Gleaner. 

The early afternoon timeframe was not ideal and bird activity was low, but with time we found a female Black-hooded Antshrike that stuck around long enough for great looks and distant photos. 

Black-hooded Antshrike - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

We staked out an area that had an active Riverside Wren nest. After a few minutes an adult appeared with a beak full of worms, disappearing into the nest to feed the chicks. Incredible! 

Riverside Wren at nest - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

We had to cut our losses with Chiriqui Foliage-gleaner (no matter, Laura and I had seen this species very well in the Osa Peninsula), and the skies were beginning to threaten rain as well. We arrived back at the feeders just as the skies opened. Standing under an overhang on the terrace allowed us to enjoy the birds despite the weather.

Scaly-breasted Hummingbird - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

But in the heavy rain, the stars of the show appeared. Fiery-billed Araçaris!

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

They signalled their arrival with loud calls and descended to the trees around the house. Mishael called for them and placed some fresh papaya on their preferred perches, and they were soon gorging themselves on the fruit. 

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

This was a species that Laura and I had only viewed once - alongside a busy road in Costa Rica - and those birds had flown before we could photograph them or really appreciate them. We were thrilled today to experience this moment and soak it all in. 

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Of course, the Lesson's Motmots had to get in on the papaya...

Lesson's Motmot - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

As did a Buff-throated Saltator and female Green Honeycreeper.

Buff-throated Saltator - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Green Honeycreeper - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Whenever they were not being chased off by the motmots or araçaris, a flock of Scarlet-rumped Tanagers patronized the fruit feeder. The heavy rain did not seem to deter them!

Scarlet-rumped Tanagers - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Scarlet-rumped Tanagers - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

I love the water droplet splashing off the head of this male Scarlet-rumped Tanager. 

Scarlet-rumped Tanager - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

A pair of Thick-billed Euphonias also joined in on the fun. 

Thick-billed Euphonia - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

But in the end, it was the araçaris who stole the show for me. What a bird...

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

Fiery-billed Araçari - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama

For anyone who would like to visit Birding Paradise, Mishael can be contacted on Whatsapp (+507 6693-4236) and Facebook. And not to worry if you don't speak Spanish, he speaks very good English as well. The cost to visit his property is very reasonable, and he can also be hired to explore some nearby areas. His family also rents out a room on the house - staying here would be an excellent way to explore this area at dawn. In short, Laura and I can't say enough good things about Birding Paradise!

Lesson's Motmot - Paraíso Birding Paradise, Chiriquí, Panama