A Photographer's Dream At Finca Alejandría

We left our hostel shortly after 7 AM, forgoing the complimentary breakfast (not served until 8 AM) so that we could be on the road earlier. We left Cali behind and climbed through the mountains on a good quality paved road, passing numerous cyclists as we traveled. Thankfully it was a Monday so the total number of cyclists was rather reasonable. 

It took us around 50 minutes to reach our destination: Finca Alejandría. This beautiful property is run by the Nieto family, and they cater to birders, photographers, and members of the general public who are interested in viewing hummingbirds, tanagers and other birds. Dozens upon dozens of hummingbird feeders are set up around the property, while several large tray feeders stocked with bananas prove irresistible to various tanagers, Red-headed Barbets, Crimson-rumped Toucanets, Colombian Chachalacas and more. A small trail has also been constructed through the cloud forest above the finca, providing the opportunity to look for forest species.

Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

The main attraction at Finca Alejandría is the chance to see the Multicolored Tanager at close range as a few individuals will visit the feeders. This Colombian endemic species has a limited range in the western and central Andes and is an absolute stunner of a bird. 

We enjoyed a traditional Colombian breakfast (arepa with cheese, scrambled eggs, sausage, and coffee or hot chocolate) while we watched the action at the feeders. Our hummingbird list reached the double digits rather quickly, while the tanagers were not far behind! 

Golden Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Black-capped Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Saffron-crowned Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

I had but one main target at Finca Alejandría: the Blue-headed Sapphire. This species is restricted to Andean valleys from central Colombia to northern Ecuador, and it is a species I have searched for unsuccessfully before in Ecuador. One or two Blue-headed Sapphires often visit the feeders at Finca Alejandría but they are by no means common. We had no luck initially, but there were so many other hummingbirds to feast our eyes upon! Laura set up the spotting scope and began digiscoping the action, coming away with a ton of fantastic photos too. 

Purple-throated Woodstar - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Speckled Hummingbird - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Long-tailed Sylphs were some of the showiest hummingbirds at the feeders. 

Long-tailed Sylph - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Long-tailed Sylph - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

The female lacks the long tail but she is quite pretty as well. 

Long-tailed Sylph - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

The tiny Booted Racket-tail is right up there in the “ridiculous tail” category. 

Booted Racket-tail - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

The birds at the fruit feeders were not shy at all. Crimson-rumped Toucanets were fun to study (and photograph!).

Crimson-rumped Toucanet - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Crimson-rumped Toucanet - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Between the Golden-naped Tanagers, Red-headed Barbets, Saffron-crowned Tanagers and Black-capped Tanagers, it was hard to decide what to photograph first!

Red-headed Barbet - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Saffron-crowned Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Luckily, we did not have to wait too long to observe a Multicolored Tanager – in fact, three individuals dropped by over the course of the morning including a recently fledged one. While I never managed the 5-star photos (not on a feeder) that I hoped for, I came away happy with the incredible views!

Multicolored Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Multicolored Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Laura called my attention to a scene playing out in front of her. A female Booted Racket-tail sat quietly on her perch, while a male performed a display in front of her, flying slowly in circles and seductively exhibiting his fluffy "puff-legs" and broad tail clubs. It was a show that we had never witnessed before, but the female did not appear overly impressed!

Booted Racket-tail - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Booted Racket-tails - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Booted Racket-tails - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

We took a late morning break to wander into the forest trail. Here, we added a number of new species to our trip list including Slaty Antwren, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Three-striped Warbler, Chestnut-breasted Wren and Nariño Tapaculo. With a bit of patience, we were rewarded with excellent views of the latter two species. I botched the focus on my photos of these species, unfortunately. 

Chestnut-breasted Wren - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

We staked out the feeders at the far end of the property, and finally came through with a Blue-headed Sapphire. We had both barely managed to see it when it flew away, but 10 minutes later it returned for an encore. I never was able to find it subsequently, but the views were excellent for the short period of time that we watched it. 

Blue-headed Sapphire - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

This part of the property was also the only area where we viewed Sickle-winged Guan and Collared Trogon, while I also heard a Chestnut Wood-Quail vocalizing from nearby. 

We staked out the various feeders for another hour or two. The photography was almost too easy – just pick a target species, find its preferred feeder, and then come away with the best photos you have ever taken of that species! 

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

When it was all said and done, we had tallied 17 species of hummingbirds. Below are a few that have not been featured up to this point. 

Bronzy Inca - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Booted Racket-tail (female) - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Fawn-breasted Brilliant - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

And a few additional photos of some of the other birds. 

Golden-naped Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Colombian Chachalaca - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Scrub Tanager - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Red-headed Barbet - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Before departing we went for a short walk down part of the entrance road. A mixed flock produced a few new species including Ashy-throated Chlorospingus, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Streaked Xenops and Andean Motmot. We also found this recently deceased snake (genus Atractus) that had somehow entangled its hemipenes (male sex organs) in some vegetation. We are not sure how this occurred, but what a way to go out. 

Atractus sp. - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

With around 80 species of birds observed, we left Finca Alejandría behind and continued westwards to the town of El Queremal where we have booked a hotel for two nights. The afternoon was gray and rainy and so we decided to spend the last few hours of light editing photos and prepping for the next few days. Hopefully the weather cooperates, but the Chocó is some of the wettest forest on earth. Regardless, we should see some great birds over the upcoming days!

Red-headed Barbet - Finca Alejandría, Km 18, Valle del Cauca, Colombia