A Quest Nature Tour Of Jamaica

The Caribbean island of Jamaica is a naturalist’s paradise. Situated south of eastern Cuba, east of Honduras and north of Colombia, Jamaica has an interesting assemblage of species with different origins. Jamaica was never connected to the mainland throughout its long geological history. Everything that arrived on the island had to get there by traveling over open water. Like all islands, Jamaica has a lower number of species compared to a similar area on the mainland. The ones that are present, however, are more likely to be unique. 

Red-billed Streamertail

For example, Jamaica has 29 extant species of birds that are endemic; as in, they are found nowhere else in the world. This is a comparable number to the much larger island of Cuba. A high proportion of the various reptiles, plants and insects found on Jamaica are also endemic to the island. 

Jamaican Oriole

I have recently returned from a tour of Jamaica with a group from Quest Nature Tours. We were all looking forward to some sun, endemic birds, a diversity of habitats and some of the excellent cuisine that Jamaica is known for. In the end, the trip was highly successful. The group managed to see every single one of the endemic birds, the sun was very welcome, and the jerk chicken, curries and patties were delicious. We also had the privilege to be joined by Ann Haynes-Sutton, a highly regarded conservation ecologist who has dedicated much of her life to studying Jamaica’s ecosystems and the species that call them home. 

Jamaican Turquoise Anole (Anolis grahami)

Our trip began in the bustling city of Kingston where, due to some flight scheduling shenanigans, most of the group flew in a day early. Our extra time allowed us to visit the Hellshire Hills southwest of the city. This extensive area of dry forest is home to several extremely threatened species including the Jamaican Rock Iguana. If the presumed extinct Jamaican Poorwills still exists, this would be the area to find it. Our visit to Hellshire was productive as we found a bonus bird that otherwise wouldn’t be possible on the tour – Bahama Mockingbird – while we were introduced to many of the endemic bird species found on the island like Jamaican Vireo, Jamaican Mango and Yellow-shouldered Grassquit. 

Bahama Mockingbird

Jamaican Mango on nest

An afternoon foray to the Hope Botanical Gardens produced a roosting Northern Potoo, endemic Yellow-billed Parrots and Red-billed Streamertails, recently-arrived migrant Gray Kingbirds, and a few introduced species including Rose-ringed Parakeet and Small Indian Mongoose. The latter species is causing a lot of problems on the island and is the main culprit for the dire plight of the Jamaican Rock Iguana. 

Northern Potoo

Red-billed Streamertail

Once the tour officially kicked off we headed north and then east, basing ourselves near the coast in Port Antonio. The birding and herping was excellent on the grounds of our ecolodge, and we found gems such as the tiny Vervain Hummingbird, our first Jamaican Owls (heard-only for most, unfortunately), a curious pair of Chestnut-bellied Cuckoos and several showy Black-billed Streamertails. This streamertail is only found in the eastern corner of the island and was formerly considered a subspecies of the widespread Red-billed Streamertail. 

Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo

Female Black-billed Streamertail feeding young

Anoles were frequently observed on most days. Jamaica has a considerably smaller list of anoles than neighbouring Cuba, for example, but we caught up with most of the endemic species. 

Jamaican Turquoise Anole (Anolis grahami)

Bluefields Anole (Anolis opalinus)

Molting Jamaican Giant Anole (Anolis garmani)

One morning, we explored along the famous (among birders) Ecclesdown Road. This loop road travels through humid forest in the lower foothills of the John Crow Mountains and every endemic bird species can be found here. We found both endemic parrots (Yellow-billed and Black-billed), Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, Arrowhead Warbler and much more. Unfortunately, the lone Jamaican Blackbird disappeared before the group could see it, but we would remedy that later in the trip. 

Yellow-billed Parrots

Indian Shot (Canna indica)

We also spent some time along the coast where the nesting White-tailed Tropicbirds were a big highlight. Afterwards, the jerk chicken and cold beer in the town of Boston (where jerk chicken was invented) really hit the spot! 

White-tailed Tropicbird

The Blue Mountains were next on the agenda and they certainly did not disappoint. We stayed at a lodge in the highlands and found most of our remaining bird targets within walking distance of our rooms. A particular highlight for many were several Crested Quail-Doves, certainly one of the most beautiful of Jamaica’s endemic birds. We also had memorable encounters with birds such as Blue Mountain Vireo, Jamaican Elaenia and Jamaican Tody, while we had many chances to sample the world-famous Blue Mountain coffee. 

Jamaican Tody

Pine Pink Orchid (Bletia purpurea)

Crested Quail-Dove

Staying in the mountains afforded me the opportunity to set up my moth trap overnight. Quite a few moths and other insects turned up, many of which are only found in Jamaica. 

An endemic tiger moth, Hypercompe nigriplaga

An endemic caddisfly, Chimarra argentella

A endemic wasp-mimicking moth, Horama grotei

An endemic sphinx moth, Enyo latipennis

An endemic leaf beetle, Diabrotica jamaicensis

A wasp-mimicking moth, Nyridela chalciope

An endemic jewel caterpillar moth, Acraga ciliata

Before leaving the Blue Mountains, we found a few scarce bird species including a Greater Antillean Elaenia and finally, a Jamaican Blackbird. Though it doesn't look particularly unique, the Jamaican Blackbird has an interesting foraging strategy as it prefers sneaking around the trunks of trees and looking for food deep within the bromeliads. It is theorized that it fills this niche due to the absence of foliage-gleaners or woodcreepers in Jamaica. 

The Blue Mountains

We left the mountains behind and drove west to Marshall's Pen, a former coffee and ranching estate that dates back to the early 1800's and which is currently Ann's home. During our three-night stay here we made daily excursions, while we also enjoyed the excellent birding, herping and mothing on the grounds. We found a cooperative Jamaican Owl one evening, thus completing the set of all 29 endemic birds seen for the group, and we also had excellent encounters with Jamaican Becards, Red-billed Streamertails, a Northern Potoo and some neat herps including Jamaican Croaking Gecko and Snoring Treefrog. We also set up the moth traps on a couple of evenings with a local expert. 

Female Jamaican Becard

An endemic tiger moth, Are druryi

An endemic leafhopper, Apogonalia sanguinipes

Jamaican Croaking Gecko (Aristelliger praesignis)

One day, we explored the lower Black River morass where we encountered some American Crocodiles. This species is quite distinct genetically, and one day may be afforded species status. The coastal areas also provided some shorebirding opportunities and another swim in the clear blue waters that Jamaica is famous for. 

American Crocodile (Crocodylus acutus)

Northern Jacana

Black-crowned Night Heron

We also ventured northward to the relatively pristine and undisturbed Cockpit Country. The difficult terrain caused by limestone uprisings has kept this area relatively intact, and it is the last known site where the Golden Swallow used to be found in Jamaica. Ann pointed out many of the endemic plants here while the butterflying was quite good as well. One person in the group even spotted the endangered Jamaican Giant Swallowtail (Papilio homerus), the largest butterfly in the western hemisphere. 

Jamaican Satyr (Calisto zangis)

An endemic melastome, Blakea trinervia

Our tour of Jamaica finished in the city of Montego Bay on the northwest coast of the island, though before that, we detoured to find several West Indian Whistling-Ducks which is a rapidly declining species in the Caribbean. We also stopped at Rockland's Bird Sanctuary, where we had Red-billed Streamertails, Jamaican Mangos and several grassquits feeding from our hands. The photography opportunities were excellent, highlighted by close views of Caribbean Dove, Jamaican Owl and too many Orangequits to count. 

Feeding a Red-billed Streamertail

Jamaican Mango

Orangequit

Caribbean Dove

Yellow-faced Grassquit

Thanks to all of those who joined me on this trip to Jamaica, and especially, thanks to our expert driver Andrew and our wonderful host and guide Ann. We had an amazing visit!