Explorations of an Ecologist

Monday, 12 February 2018

Return from the rainforests of Guyana and Tobago

Late last night Laura and I returned home following our honeymoon, where waiting for us was around 40 cm of snow on the ground. The adventure commenced in the Rupununi savanna in west-central Guyana on January 27, and finished in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad yesterday morning. Along the way we visited some spectacular primary rainforests in the heart of Guyana, the impressive Kaieteur Falls that easily puts our hometown Niagara Falls to shame, and the sandy beaches and montane forests in Tobago. The trip was highly successful, not least because of the variety and abundance of wildlife we crossed paths with and the relatively untouched landscapes we were fortunate to explore.

Scarlet Macaws - Atta, Guyana

At some point I will post detailed accounts of each day of the trip; though that will have to wait until I finish the Borneo series. Who knows, maybe at some point this blog will have Ontario content too but don't count on it for a little while. In the mean time, here is a quick rundown of some of the highlights from the trip.

Maguari Stork - Karanambu, Guyana

While birds were often my main focus on past trips to the Neotropics, I am just as passionate about reptiles and amphibians, with mammals coming in a close third followed by everything else. Laura has an affinity for reptiles and amphibians while also showing a strong interest in many other taxa, and we are both very interested in trying to understand the ecology of an area, instead of just racking up a species list. While most eco-tourists to Guyana focus mainly on birds we did our best to spread the net wide to search for many different groups of organisms.

Crab-eating Fox - Karanambu, Guyana

The first ten days of the trip took place in the interior in Guyana, following an hour-long flight on a 20 seater plane. During these ten days we stayed at four different ecolodges, most being accessible from the main highway. The potholed Trans-Guyana highway as we affectionately called it is the main artery through the country from the capital of Georgetown in the north to Boa Vista, just over the border in Brazil. It has yet to be paved and it is said that only 20-30 vehicles make the trip each day from Georgetown south to the interior. As a result exploring along the main highway was one of my favorite parts of the trip due to the abundance of wildlife. It felt that the forest could swallow up the highway without much effort, and quite a few hours were spent walking along the road with nary a vehicle passing us the entire time.

traveling to white-sand forest along the Trans Guyana Highway, near Atta, Guyana

birding the Trans Guyana Highway near Atta, Guyana

Following our time in the interior, we flew back to Georgetown for two nights. Here we explored the botanical gardens in the city, and also boarded a small plane to visit the impressive Kaieteur Falls. Surrounded by untouched forest, the only way to view the falls is to charter a flight from Georgetown since there is no road access.

Kaieteur Falls, Guyana

We finished off the trip by staying in Tobago for three nights and Trinidad for one. After the long days of hiking in Guyana we were pretty tired, so it was great to rent a jeep and explore the beautiful forests and picturesque bays and beaches of Tobago at our own pace.

Tobago Glass Frog (Hyalinobatrachium orientale tobagoense) with eggs - Cuffie River, Tobago

Snakes put in a good showing despite the initial reluctance by some(but not all) of the local guides we utilized, and by the end of the trip we had tallied eleven individuals of nine species. Finding and catching a two-meter long Tiger Ratsnake (Spilotes pullatus) in Tobago was a big highlight, as was discovering two different False Coral Snakes (Erythrolamprus aesculapii) in Guyana. Our visit coincided with the dry season making it much more difficult to encounter snakes. The flooded forests during the wet season help concentrate snakes in upland pockets, making the search much easier. Unfortunately we struck out with Bushmaster, one species I was really hoping to find. Just another reason to go back!

False Coral Snake (Erythrolamprus aesculapii) - Surama, Guyana

Speaking of herps we found a good variety of other species. One of the major highlights was a morning spent searching for Bumblebee Poison Dart Frogs (Dendrobates leucomelas), which culminated in the discovery of five individuals. This relatively large dendrobatid has a relatively small geographic range centered of southern Venezuela, but they also range into western Guyana, northern Brazil and just over the border in Colombia.

Bumblebee Poison Dart Frog (Dendrobates leucomelas) - Surama, Guyana

While our overall species total for mammals was relatively low we did hit the jackpot with a few special ones. Out of the four species of anteaters in the world, we crossed paths with the two most difficult to find in Giant Anteater and Silky Anteater (we did not see Southern Tamandua, or Northern Tamandua which is found further north than where we were). The Rupununi is one of the best places in the world to see Giant Anteater, a Vulnerable species which is quite rare over most of its geographic range, and we lucked out one morning. Giant Otter was another major highlight and we had two sightings totaling three individuals. Giant Otter was first listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List in 2000 and since then the populations have continued to decline in most areas. The biggest mammal highlight for me was a massive male Jaguar that crossed the trail perhaps 30 m in front of us. The experience lasted only two seconds or so but it will be forever burned in my mind.

Giant Anteater - Karanambu, Guyana

We encountered about 350 species of birds during our time in Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago. The shear number of parrots, guans/currasows/trumpeters, cotingas and toucans in Guyana was impressive. This is partly because the impact from hunting is much reduced due to the small human population spread over a large area, and because most of the country consists of intact forest that has experienced relatively little impact from human activities.

Racket-tailed Coquette - Atta, Guyana

We had success with many of our big target species, including iconic ones such as Harpy Eagle (heard only unfortunately), Orange-breasted Falcon, four species of macaw, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Capuchinbird, Black-banded Owl, Sunbittern, Black Currasow and Crimson Topaz. Additionally we connected with several difficult species with small or fragmented ranges, including Crested Doradito, White-naped Xenopsaris, Bearded Tachuri, Blood-coloured Woodpecker, White-winged Potoo, Chapman's Swift, Black Manakin, Cayenne Jay, Marail Guan and Guianan Red-Cotinga.

Sunbittern - Rupununi River, Karanambu, Guyana

Cotingas stole the show for me and in addition to the above mentioned Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Capuchinbird and Guianan Red-Cotinga, we also observed Pompadour Cotinga, Spangled Cotinga, Crimson Fruitcrow and Dusky Purpletuft.

Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock - Kaieteur National Park, Guyana

In our time in Tobago we found every bird species I was hoping to see, the highlight being at least eight White-tailed Sabrewings along the famous Gilpin Trace one morning. Our time in Trinidad was limited to just an afternoon/evening but we made the most of it, visiting the Caroni Swamp to witness the return of over 5,000 Scarlet Ibis to their roosts around dusk. Along the way we saw several Cook's Tree Boas and a surprise Silky Anteater among the Red Mangroves.

Scarlet Ibises - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

In addition to all of the wildlife sightings, Laura and I really enjoyed hiking through the forests and savannas and spending quality time with each other. While maybe not the most traditional honeymoon destination, Guyana did not disappoint!

Monday, 5 February 2018

Borneo - Part 6 (Day 1 at the Crocker Range)

Introduction
October 3, 2017 - Day 1 on Mount Kinabalu
October 4, 2017 - Day 2 on Mount Kinabalu
October 5, 2017 - Poring Hot Springs
October 6, 2017 - Day 3 on Mount Kinabalu
October 7, 2017 - Day 1 at the Crocker Range
October 8, 2017 - Day 2 at the Crocker Range, Kota Kinabalu
October 9, 2017 - Klias Peatswamp Forest Reserve
October 10, 2017 - Arrival at Sepilok
October 11, 2017 - Sepilok
October 12, 2017 - Sepilok, travel up the Kinabatangan River
October 13, 2017 - Kinabatangan River
October 14, 2017 - Gomantong Caves, travel to the Danum Valley
October 15, 2017 - Day 1 at the Danum Valley
October 15, 2017 - Night Hiking in the Danum Valley

October 16, 2017 - Day 2 at the Danum Valley

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October 7, 2017

Some rain fell during the night but it was clear before dawn. The earplugs ensured that I had a decent sleep, though I was still pretty tired and it was past 6 AM before I had finally dragged myself down the stairs to my car. Guess all of the hiking over the previous few days was catching up to me, or perhaps it was the remnants from jet lag (the ill effects of which I was surprisingly able to avoid this trip). The area I was in, the northern part of the Crocker Range, is referenced by number 3 in the map, below.

By 6:20 AM I pulled into the parking lot of the Rafflesia Information Center (RIC) where I would begin my day. Unlike my time at Kinabalu Park, the strategy here would be slightly different. While Kinabalu Park has an extensive trail system, here in the Crocker Range I would be doing all my birding from the roadside. The jungle is just too dense and there are no trails heading off into the forest. Trip reports I had read mentioned how it was a little frustrating birding beside a relatively busy road, but the forest is such high quality here with an abundance of foothill and submontane species. A handful of species are much easier here than they are at Mount Kinabalu so most birders spend a day or two in the Crocker Range. In particular, I was hoping to catch up with Bornean Barbet (E), Mountain Barbet (E), Bornean Leafbird (E), Bornean Bulbul (E), Pygmy White-eye (E), and the endemic subspecies of Ashy Bulbul, split by some authorities as Cinereous Bulbul (E). Fruit-hunter (E) and Whitehead's Spiderhunter (E) are also main target species for many visiting birders; fortunately I had already seen both species previously.

Roadside birding near the RIC - Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

While preparing my gear before venturing out on foot, one of the first birds I got on was a pair of Cinereous Bulbuls (E), feeding on a fruiting tree right at the entrance to the RIC. They were gone before I got around to readying my camera, however.

Rafflesia Information Center - Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

I began walking up the road, taking advantage of the wide, grassy shoulders as trucks motored past. It was not the most scenic birding I had ever done, but new birds were around nearly every bend since the elevation here was lower than at Mount Kinabalu, providing habitat for a different subset of species. Sunda Cuckooshrike, Dark Hawk-Cuckoo and Asian Brown Flycatcher were quickly added to my list.

Some movement in a roadside tree morphed into a pair of Bornean Bulbuls (E) foraging on fruits. I enjoyed watching them for about 5 minutes before we went our separate ways; them down the slope, and me up the road.

Bornean Bulbul - 1 km west of Rafflesia Information Center, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

Certain bird species seem to be ubiquitous wherever you travel. In much of Eurasia, Gray Wagtail fills that role and I found that they were particularly numerous in Borneo. The mountains seem to collect a sizable wintering population each year.

Gray Wagtail - Rafflesia Information Center, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

After an hour and a half of walking I turned around to retrace my steps. The birding had been good but the traffic noise was becoming a little frustrating. It seemed like the vehicles were spaced out perfectly so that the sound of the first vehicle would still be audible by the time you could hear the next vehicle approaching. Frustrating, especially when most of the bird identifications are made initially by sound.

Along the way back to my vehicle some roadside rustling caught my ear. I do not currently have a good resource to identify skinks in Borneo, of which there are numerous species. One day I will identify this one!

skink sp. - Rafflesia Information Center, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

I returned to the RIC to have some breakfast (leftover trail mix and a few cookies) and watch/listen for birds around the fruiting trees within and adjacent to the center. Mountain Barbets (E) were vocalizing everywhere but I had no luck with Bornean Barbet (E) or Bornean Leafbird (E), which are frequently seen here. While the barbets were vocal, try as I might I could not spot any sitting high in the trees. Who knew such colorful birds could be so difficult to spot, but I guess it makes sense considering that green is their dominant colour. There were not many fruits in the trees lining the roadside, perhaps explaining the absence of the leafbirds. Like several other species found in this part of the world Bornean Leafbirds (E) are somewhat nomadic, being found wherever the fruiting trees are. Bird activity was beginning to wind down by 8:00 AM and feeling a little restless I decided to drive east for a few km, to bird near the Makalob waterfall at a slightly lower elevation.

Due to a gate blocking the path I wasn't able to reach the actual waterfall so I was stuck to roadside birding once again. I still had very little energy, so I decided to sit on a roadside guardrail overlooking an area of forest with decent visibility to the canopy. A Bornean Barbet (E) suddenly fired up and began its long, continuous song of rapid "tok" notes, which would continue for well over a minute straight! My first Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike also appeared in the canopy. As it was now almost 9:00 AM I headed back to the RIC where the owner had opened the gate by the time I had returned. I walked around for a while on the grounds without seeing a whole lot, but a flyover Rufous-bellied Eagle and this Blyth's Hawk-Eagle were great to see.

Blyth's Hawk-Eagle - Rafflesia Information Center, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

This locust was resting on a wooden beam beside the main path. After I disturbed it, the insect hopped onto the ground, spread out its wings, and hopped forward while displaying the vivid black and orange pattern on its hindwings.

I was feeling pretty famished at this point as I had neglected to eat dinner the evening before, and my breakfast consisted of some trail mix and cookies. I made a pit stop at the Gunung Alab Resort and ordered a big plate of fried rice, a hamburger and a coke from the restaurant, which seemed to do the trick! It was fun to have some authentic nasi goreng in Borneo (directly translated to fried rice), as it was a meal I would occasionally have as a child. Some of Dutch cuisine is borrowed from Indonesian cooking, since Indonesia was a former colony of the Netherlands (known as the Dutch East Indies).

I spent the afternoon by taking the only side-road found off of the main road. Called the Gunung Alab substation road, it climbs higher into the mountains to a telecommunications base. While I had already seen most of the target birds that one can see in the upper elevations of the Crocker Range, I was looking forward to exploring a new area that wasn't beside a busy road. The higher elevation also ensured that the cloud cover and reduced temperatures would enable the birding to be a bit more active during the middle parts of the day. At one point I stood overlooking this valley, as a few Fruit-hunters (E) foraged in the bushes nearby, and a Blyth's Hawk-Eagle rose on the thermals above the hills, circling up from the valley below me. A small party of Pygmy White-eyes (E) also moved past along the hillside, their high, thin trills ringing out through the mist.

View from the Gunung Alab substation road - Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

Fruit-hunter - Gunung Alab substation road, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

An early afternoon rainstorm was a good excuse to take a nap in my trusty steed...

By 3 PM or so I was feeling rejuvenated and rested, so I headed back down the mountain. Returning to the Makalob waterfall, my plan was to walk along the road for an hour or two before dusk. The morning rush had already died down when I visited earlier in the day, so my hope was that the overcast conditions and later hour in the day would instigate bird activity.

This happened to be a very good call and I enjoyed a solid hour or two of birding. The rain held off for the most part and some of the birds cooperated. Ashy Drongos were particularly numerous but I was also happy to spot my first Spectacled Spiderhunter and Long-tailed Broadbill. A Cinereous Bulbul (E) gave me a second chance at a photo. This would be my only sighting of this species after the brief encounter from first thing in the morning at the RIC.

Ashy Drongo - Makalob waterfall, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

Spectacled Spiderhunter - Makalob waterfall, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

Cinereous (Ashy) Bulbul - Makalob waterfall, Crocker Range, Sabah, Malaysia

My first day in the Crocker Range had gone well. Regarding my target species, I had ticked both Mountain Barbet (E) and Bornean Barbet (E), though both were heard only. I had also seen and photographed both endemic bulbuls and heard Pygmy White-eye (E), yet I had struck out on Bornean Leafbird (E). My strategy for the following morning would be return to the RIC at an earlier hour which would hopefully improve my chances of connecting with both barbets as they are much more active first thing in the morning. I was also hoping to find Bornean Leafbird (E) somewhere! Once the morning rush was over I would likely start driving west out of the mountains towards Kota Kinabalu, before turning south and making progress towards my destination of Beaufort, near the Klias Peatswamp Reserve.

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October 16, 2017 - Day 2 at the Danum Valley

Saturday, 27 January 2018

Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago

By the time this blog autoposts Laura and I will (hopefully) be at a lodge at the edge of the Amazon in central Guyana. We had originally decided on postponing our honeymoon until the winter despite getting married in September, since it is a little easier to me to take time off from my job at this time of year. Of course, it is always nice to escape winter for a few weeks as well.

Late in 2016 as we began to look into wedding stuff, we decided that Laura would do most of the wedding planning, while I would take care of organizing the honeymoon. I love putting together trips anyways so I think I got the better deal! To make things a bit more exciting, the plan was for me to organize the trip in secret, with Laura kept in the dark as to the where the destination is. The plan is for her to find out at the airport. :)

I decided on Guyana for a few reasons. First of all, I wanted to take Laura somewhere in the Neotropics since she had never visited, and being surrounded by lush vegetation while seeing parrots, toucans, and snakes was something she has always wanted to do, but the opportunity had never come up for her. Second, Guyana as a country has areas of true wilderness and up to 90% of the country is forested. The lodges we will be visiting are located in remote locations, surrounded by Rupununi savanna or lush tropical forest. Many of the tougher Neotropical birds are relatively easy in Guyana including Harpy Eagle, Sunbittern, Sungrebe, Agami Heron, Orange-breasted Falcon, several guans and curassows, Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo and a whole host of cotingas including Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Crimson Fruitcrow, Guianan Red Cotinga, and Capuchinbird. The herping can also be incredible in Guyana so Laura and I will be on high alert for snakes, frogs and whatever else we can find. Both South American Bushmaster and Green Anaconda can be found in the areas we will be visiting, though they are certainly not easy to encounter. We have chances at seeing Ocelot, Jaguar, Giant River Otter and Giant Anteater, though the first two species are uncommonly encountered.

Guyana as a country is not visited by a lot of tourists, though in recent years it is starting to become a hotspot for nature tours. That being said, it receives only a fraction of the number of ecotourists than some of the other countries in South America do such as Ecuador, Peru or Brazil. It's somewhere that I have always dreamed of visiting and it will be amazing to be able to share the experience with Laura.

After 12 days in Guyana we will be hopping over to Trinidad and Tobago for four nights. We will have a chance to do some snorkeling, explore some of the beautiful forests, and relax in the sun for a few days before heading home.

Internet will be scarce in Guyana but perhaps I will post a few photos on the blog at some point during our travels. Wish us luck!

Wednesday, 24 January 2018

Borneo - Part 5 (Day 3 on Mount Kinabalu)

October 16, 2017 - Day 2 at the Danum Valley

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October 6, 2017

I returned to Kinabalu Park near park headquarters for the final time, with a much reduced "hit list" compared to previous days. Among the remaining endemics found here, I had not crossed paths with Whitehead's Trogon (E), Mountain Wren-Babbler (E), Bare-headed Laughingthrush (E) and Everett's Thrush (E). Also missing from my list were the species found only in the upper elevations that I was not allowed to access, but they would have to wait until my next trip to Borneo I guess.

I began my day by slowly driving up the main road just before dawn, hoping for Everett's Thrush (E), but once again they remained elusive. Several birds sitting on the road did give me a brief jolt, but in each case they were either Bornean Whistling-Thrush (E), Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher (E) or Sunda Laughingthrush - great birds no doubt, but not the target species.

I birded near Timpohon Gate once again as it had been very birdy here on my last visit. Activity was pretty good on this day and I enjoyed sorting through the birds. A Little Pied Flycatcher hunted for insects from a barbed wire fence, providing my first look at this common montane species.

Little Pied Flycatcher - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

The refuse bins near Timpohon Gate are a great way to obtain excellent looks at some of the local birds and mammals. Several Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrels and a gaggle of Sunda Laughingthrushes were making good use of one of the bins early in the morning.

Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Sunda Laughingthrush - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

I decided to walk the Bukit Ular trail once more as it had been quite good two days earlier. However my walk down to the trail entrance was interrupted when a brilliant green and chestnut bird alighted in a tree nearby, just long enough for me to obtain one distant photo of the Bornean Green Magpie (E). A Little Cuckoo-Dove and an Indigo Flycatcher also had their likenesses imprinted on my memory card, and while better than the shots of the green magpie, their photos were not much more than record shots.

Bornean Green Magpie - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Little Cuckoo-Dove - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Indigo Flycatcher - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

The Bukit Ular trail was very good and I managed to take some sufficient recordings of a number of species. The "best" bird was a vocal Mountain Serpent Eagle, calling somewhere off trail. It took a second before it clicked what species was making the vocalizations. Many laughingthrushes were also present in a large group, with about equal numbers of both Sunda Laughingthrush and Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush (E). The Bare-headed Laughingthrush (E) was playing hard to get!

Bukit Ular trail - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Realizing I still needed to return my room key and with the checkout time quickly approaching I briefly vacated the park for 25 minutes to take care of it as well as to settle up my bill. Upon my return to Kinabalu Park, heavy fog and light rain had enveloped the mountain.The conditions can change so rapidly here.

I walked the Silau-Silau trail, caught up with the Mempening Trail and followed that up to the road, though no Whitehead's Trogons (E), Mountain Wren-Babblers (E) or Bare-headed Laughingthrushes (E) appeared. I was feeling just a little discouraged, especially since I kind of expected to eventually see the latter two species, but you can not get them all. Besides, I had seen so much in the park already and I would be returning to Borneo in 2018 anyways.

I reached the main road after a few kilometers of mostly uphill walking, just as the rain began to fall once again. A small party of birds in the undergrowth beside the road grabbed my attention. I was pretty thrilled when the first bird I got on with my binoculars was a Mountain Wren-Babbler (E)! While supposedly common on the mountain, it took until my last few hours before I finally connected with one. The little flock contained a half dozen of the Mountain Wren-Babblers (E) along with several Temminck's Babblers, another new species for me.

I took shelter under one of the pavilions at a trail head, taking the time during the heavy rain to type up notes on my phone. I find that writing up trip reports accurately when I get home is quite difficult as the days seem to blend into each other, so I made a conscious effort on this trip to type up a journal on my phone for each day. After about an hour the rain had diminished enough for me to hit the trails again and my notes were all caught up, so I decided to take the long portion of the Mempening Trail down the mountain, a new section for me. For the whole walk it was foggy with intermittent rain and I did not see a whole lot, avian or otherwise. I did run into a couple from Belgium who were on a herping trip, and they regaled me of stories of a Malcolm's Pit Viper they had found the previous evening. Feeling a twang of jealousy I made a mental note that on future tips to Mount Kinabalu I will have to do some serious nocturnal herping, even if it means I have to sleep in and miss the best hours of the day for birding. The trials and tribulations of a short trip, where it is impossible to search for everything...

view of Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

As I finished up on the Mempening Trail and began heading back to my car I was thinking about how successful of a time I had enjoyed on the mountain. While I did not see everything I hoped to, I at least made a big dent in my "hit list", and missing a few endemics here and there is nothing to be ashamed of. Like I said, it gives me motivation on my next trip here. When approximately 200 m from the car I encountered one more big flock during a short reprieve from the rain, representing the first birds that I had seen in about an hour. The flock was made up mostly of laughingthrushes and Bornean Treepies (E), with small numbers of Bornean Green Magpies (E) and a pair of Banded Woodpeckers. I almost did not believe my eyes when two Bare-headed Laughingthrushes (E) materialized out of the fog among the two common laughingthrush species!

I had almost given up on the idea of finding Bare-headed Laughingthrush (E) flocking with the other two species. Some of the trip reports I had read mentioned seeing Bare-headed in small groups on their own and I had already scanned through several big mixed flocks of laughingthrushes without any success. I have to say it was pretty satisfying to watch the two Bare-headed Laughingthrushes (E) as they moved with the mixed flock. I was surprised how obvious the bright red bill was, while the bare head and yellow coloration on the face was not easy to see unless the bird moved to a branch that was not back-lit. While they were difficult to stay on, I had numerous sightings of the pair before the flock continued on, and I think I had a big grin on my face the entire time. I did not even try for my camera safely protected from the elements in my backpack since there was no guarantee I would be successful given the quick movements of the birds, the backlit conditions, and the amount of branches getting in the way. I just enjoyed the views and tried to stay on the birds as long as I could. It was a satisfying way to finish my time on Mount Kinabalu!

Oriental Magpie-Robin - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Oriental Magpie-Robin is a common denizen of open areas, towns and farmland. One individual was present near park headquarters, providing great views each day as I exited the park.

Oriental Magpie-Robin - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

I drove out of the entrance gate to Kinabalu Park for the last time, hitting the road for a two hour drive that would take me to parts of the Crocker Range to the south. I was hoping to dig up a variety of montane species that are difficult in Kinabalu Park, while also exploring a new area. The drive itself was fairly uneventful, though the frequent potholes kept me alert at the wheel. It seems that roads only get paved in 200 m stretches here before giving way to gravel.

I even managed to see a few new birds on the drive, including Zebra Dove, Philippine Cuckoo-Dove, and a candidate for the bird with the greatest name, a few White-breasted Woodswallows. Shortly after dusk I pulled into the only place offering accommodations in the area, the Gunung Alab Resort, consisting of a few very basic rooms above a busy restaurant and bar. Luckily there was one room available so I paid for two nights and settled in. I attempted to have a shower and managed to get moderately clean, despite the fact that only ice-cold water trickled out of the tap at a rate of perhaps one liter per minute. That evening I was pretty happy with my investment of earplugs as there was a rocking party going on at the bar downstairs. Perhaps in another life I would have been down there with everyone else but birds beckoned, as did the impending 5 AM alarm, so I drifted off to sleep instead.

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October 16, 2017 - Day 2 at the Danum Valley

Thursday, 11 January 2018

Borneo - Part 4 (Poring Hot Springs)

October 16, 2017 - Day 2 at the Danum Valley

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October 5, 2017

Following two straight days of exploring the trails of Kinabalu Park between the park headquarters and the Timpohon Gate, I was ready to hike in a new area. I had done quite well in the park with but a few target species remaining, and I still had two days scheduled for this part of Sabah province. To switch things up I decided to make the short drive to the eastern slope of the mountain for my third full day to a place called the Poring Hot Springs. It is depicted with number 2 in the image below.

While my previous two days were spent exploring sub-montane forest between the elevations of roughly 1500 m and 1900 m, the forests around Poring Hot Springs are much lower in elevation. The hot springs, popular with both locals and tourists, are located near the parking lot at an elevation of around 550 m. A trail leads from the hot springs for about four kilometers before ending at the Langanan waterfall, which is located at approximately 1050 m in elevation. The trail passes through several forest types that become increasingly less disturbed the closer one gets to the waterfall. This elevation band is not well represented in the common places that birders visit in Sabah and as a result a number of species difficult to come by elsewhere are found here. These include both Blue-banded Pitta (E) and Bornean Banded Pitta (E), the scarce Hose's Broadbill (E), and several other relatively difficult species, including White-necked Babbler, Scaly-breasted Bulbul, Cinnamon-rumped Trogon and Rufous-collared Kingfisher.

I left my accommodations shortly after 5:00 AM, making decent time on the windy roads down the mountain. The gate was open to the hot springs so I parked, grabbed my binoculars, camera and pack, and set out on foot just as the sun began to rise. As expected the hot springs were completely devoid of human activity at this early hour. Immediately I began adding new species to my life list. Most were common lowland species that I would see frequently later in the trip, including Plain-throated Sunbird, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha and Rufous-tailed Tailorbird. The distinctive calls of the latter species frequently helped compose the daily soundtrack in the lowlands during this trip. I managed good but brief views of a Lesser Treeshrew, which was my first ever treeshrew!

A White-crowned Shama (E) flitted around near the hot springs, and would have made a great photography target if I was not in a bit of a rush to start hiking on the trail. The early hour did not provide much light either so I resorted to using flash. This Sabah endemic is a relatively recent split (according to some authorities) from the White-rumped Shama, a widespread species throughout southeast Asia.

White-crowned Shama - Poring Hot Springs, Sabah, Malaysia

I found the trail leading to the waterfall and left the hot springs behind. Initially the forest was quite degraded, and it was in one of these stretches when a dark figure on the side of the trail caught my attention, hopping in a distinctive pitta-like fashion. I managed to watch the stunning Bornean Banded Pitta (E) for five seconds or so before it slipped off the trail. It reappeared two or three times, acting furtive and hardly allowing me to get my binoculars on it. Unfortunately I did not take any photos, but I encourage you to google this bird. Like many of the pittas, this one was a stunner!

Degraded forest near the Poring Hot Springs - Sabah, Malaysia

Feeling thrilled with the way my day began I continued hiking, crossing over several streams through areas of mature forest. Great views of a Bornean Spiderhunter (E) ensued, though it too eluded my camera. While the birding was a little slow to begin new species kept appearing, many of them being common birds found throughout lowland forests. It was during these early inclines after passing streams that I realized it would be a strenuous walk. The temperature by 7 AM was already 30 degrees with high humidity, and the trail was a near continuous incline to the waterfall. At one location I passed this ingenious water fountain.

water fountain - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Several trip reports had given exact locations for stakeouts for some of the species, but try as I might I just did not have any success, striking out on good spots for Rufous-collared Kingfisher, Blue-banded Pitta and Cinnamon-rumped Trogon. I had some success with White-necked Babbler as I heard a few give their distinctive song, but none would come in close enough to observe. A few Black-capped Babblers, one of the more widespread species of this large family of birds, were a little more cooperative as they foraged along the trail.

Black-capped Babbler - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Several small skinks flushed from the leaf litter onto the buttresses of massive trees as I walked past on the trail. I managed to apprehend one, a female it turned out, with two developing eggs visible through her semi-translucent abdominal skin. This species is called the Sabah Slender Skink (Sphenomorphus sabanus) and is reasonably common in forests up to 850 m in Sabah province.

Sabah Slender Skink (Sphenomorphus sabanus) - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

I continued to slowly hike along the trail, pausing whenever an unfamiliar bird song rang out from high up in the canopy. It was incredibly difficult to actually see the birds once I was in the mature forest and I could see how birding here could be very frustrating. Because I had all day I took my time and managed to tease a few species out of the woodwork but it was slow going. I also made ample use of my new sound recorder, taking snippets whenever I heard something unfamiliar to (hopefully) identify later.

Langanan waterfall trail - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Some of the bird songs I had quickly picked up on, mainly the frequent vocalizers like the Blue-eared, Yellow-crowned and Gold-faced Barbets, and the Black-and-yellow Broadbills. At one point the distinctive low croaks and rattles of a Whitehead's Broadbill (E) grabbed my attention, but I could not find it in the canopy. Already representing my third encounter in three days, I was feeling pretty lucky with this tricky species.

The trail's incline seemed to gradually and continually increase as I approached the waterfall, or perhaps fatigue was really just setting in! Regardless, the last kilometer or so of trail was a bit strenuous, but the views of the waterfall were well worth it.

feeling tired near the Langanan waterfall - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Langanan waterfall - Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

I had no idea when I began my hike that the waterfall would be as impressive as it was. To be honest I had not read up on the waterfall at all, since I was more interested in the bird species that could be found on the trail leading to it. But at 120 m high, this waterfall is more than twice the height of Niagara Falls. The rush of wind caused by the movement of water was pretty refreshing as it blew past!

After a 20 minute break where I consumed the rest of my trail mix and downed nearly all of my remaining bottled water, I began retracing my steps. It was around 1 PM, giving me about five hours of light remaining.

At one point I spotted this interesting plant just off the trail. It was a bud of a Rafflesia flower, which is the genus containing the world's largest flower. One of the main tourist attractions in Sabah, Rafflesia flowers in bloom are quite rare, with the flower only blooming for a few days at a time. If one is discovered in bloom somewhere it quickly becomes a business venture for enterprising Malaysians. Signs advertising the flower are erected along roadsides to attract tourists to the rare sight. While I never did see any Rafflesia flowers in bloom it was neat to see a bud, at least! Unfortunately it looks like someone had peeled off one of the sepals protecting the flower. Rafflesia are holoparasites of vines, spreading their haustorium through the tissue of the vine. The only externally visible portion of the plant is the large flower. One common name for Rafflesia is the Corpse Flower, due to the stench of the flower, reminiscent of rotting flesh.

Rafflesia sp. bud - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

The walk back down to the hot springs was a little less strenuous than the walk up, partly due to the cloud cover which had mercifully blocked the sun. As it was still the middle of the day the bird activity was much diminished but it slowly improved as the minutes ticked by. I paused to photograph this massive leaf. It would make the White Oaks back home a little jealous, I think.

My main target bird refused to show itself so I resigned myself to the fact that I would not see a Blue-banded Pitta (E). The two main stakeouts along the trail did not produce anything, and if I had to guess, it would be because these birds were "taped out" by birding groups. Considering this is one of the main places that every visiting birder keen on seeing all the endemics would go to search for Blue-banded Pitta (E), it is a reasonable assumption.

On my walk back I paused at a particularly scenic bend in the trail. I listened to some of the birds vocalizing from the canopy and took a few minutes to carefully scan for movement in the treetops. The vegetated slope was rather dense with some clumps of bamboo, and so I played the song of the Blue-banded Pitta twice as I rested, since the habitat looked OK. With no birds responding to the long, mournful whistle, I continued listening to the barbets and broadbills singing, recording several of the species.

Blue-banded Pitta spot - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

Suddenly I heard a peculiar whistle from just off the trail, and it took me a second to clue in that it was indeed a Blue-banded Pitta! I was recording a Black-and-yellow Broadbill at the time so I kept the recording going. The pitta sang two or three more times and I couldn't believe my luck.

Blue-banded Pittas can be quite shy so I was not expecting to see this bird. Just in case, I set my camera to "pitta mode", cranking the ISO up to 4000 and opening up the aperture, to let in as much light as possible in the dark understorey. Suddenly, there it was - a fiery red blob hopped into view, staring right at me! I slowly brought up my camera, cracking off a few dozen frames through the foliage, before lowering it and bringing my binoculars up to take in its beauty. For the next 30 seconds or so I stared at the pitta as he began flipping over some leaves, presumably looking for some morsel underneath. A few hops later and he was out of sight, while I stood there with my jaw open (probably). I couldn't believe the sequence of events.

Blue-banded Pitta - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

The excitement did not end there. I continued along the trail when I suddenly heard a Whitehead's Broadbill (E) call again. As I scanned the treetops, a different bird sang twice - a Hose's Broadbill (E)! This was one bird song that I had memorized as the species is sometimes heard before it is seen. Being one of the tougher Bornean endemics, I could not believe my luck. I scanned the treetops and suddenly a few medium-sized emerald shapes glided off. At least three birds were present, presumably all broadbills. Only one lingered long enough for me to see - a Whitehead's Broadbill (E). Try as I might, the Hose's did not appear in my binoculars. I waited in the area for another fifteen minutes in hopes of a repeat performance but it was not to be. Without wanting to waste too much time I eventually gave up and continued onward.

Whitehead's Broadbill - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

The last two hours on the trail were excellent, as bird diversity and activity began to increase. First, I saw my first ever hornbill - a Wreathed Hornbill - as it glided overhead through a gap in the trees. Next up was a little group of bulbuls that included several Scaly-breasted Bulbuls among the Hairy-backed Bulbuls, yet another target species down. After that was a gorgeous Rufous-collared Kingfisher, sitting on a branch overhanging the main trail near the "bat cave". And finally, I spotted a Chestnut-capped Thrush lurking in the shadows along the side of the trail as I crested a ridge and began walking towards the bat cave. It too flushed before I managed to get my camera on it. I was not really expecting to see this rare and elusive thrush on this trip, so it was a pretty great surprise, and the perfect way to cap off a really enjoyable walk.

Scaly-breasted Bulbul - Langanan waterfall trail, Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia

With the threat of rain looming and with few of my main target species left, I hurried through the last kilometer of the trail. My food and water had run out hours ago as well, which added to the urgency to return.

I reached my car at around 5:30 PM, devoured the remaining food in my car, and hit the road. I made a roadside stop at a little corner store to stock up on water, of which I drank about two liters worth in the first sixty seconds. Feeling a little better I returned to the hotel, my last animal of the day being one of the ubiquitous House Geckos above my doorway. I was exhausted but it had been an exhilarating day. Not only did I manage to encounter nearly every one of my target birds, but I had the entire trail to myself for the whole day. The massive, cathedral like trees were just as enthralling as the birds and throughout the day I frequently caught my self staring at the forest with a sense of wonder. I cannot wait until I can revisit the Langanan waterfall trail on my next visit to Borneo. This day was easily my favorite of the trip!

House Gecko - Kinabalu Pines Resort, Kundasing, Sabah, Malaysia

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October 16, 2017 - Day 2 at the Danum Valley