For the past two weeks Laura and I led Quest Nature Tours' inaugural trip to Colombia. We visited a number of locations in the eastern and central Andes, followed by a few days in the Santa Marta mountains and La Guajira in the far north. By all accounts the trip was a success as we experienced so much diversity in just two weeks.
We met in Bogotá on January 20 and the next day began the tour with a day spent exploring some great natural areas east of the city. As dawn broke we climbed into the hills of Parque Nacional Natural Chingaza. Once reaching our destination, we tucked into a delicious field breakfast and also ticked off some of the first species of the day, typical of this elevation in the Andes. Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Great Sapphirewing, Tyrian Metaltail, Glowing Puffleg and Glossy Flowerpiercer were enjoyed simultaneously with breakfast.
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| field breakfast - PNN Chingaza, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
We climbed a little higher, leaving the elfin forest behind and entering the páramo. These high Andean, mostly tree-less habitats are threatened in Colombia as cattle grazing has destroyed many expanses. The remaining areas are dominated by frailejones (genus
Espletia), a type of aster that is a good indicator of healthy páramo. PNN Chingaza protects a sizable tract of this sensitive habitat and it is here that the specialized Green-bearded Helmetcrest can be found.
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| Páramo - PNN Chingaza, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
Unfortunately, few flowers were in bloom meaning our search for the helmetcrest would be trickier than normal. But we did find one, even though it remained on the far side of the ravine and only offered brief scope views. We also observed a single Bronze-tailed Thornbill (my first of two "lifers" on the day) and a small flock of Rufous-browed Conebills. Just as we were leaving the area, an additional thornbill appeared that our local guide, Cristian, expertly spotted from the bus. This one hung around a little longer than the first, enabling the whole group to enjoy the bird.
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| Bronze-tailed Thornbill - PNN Chingaza, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
The rest of the morning was quite enjoyable as we picked through a few more mixed flocks. Rufous-browed Conebills, Black-capped Tyrannulets and Pale-naped Brushfinches were seen well and we heard quite a few Pale-bellied Tapaculos and two Rufous Antpittas. As the temperature warmed, a few insects took to the wing. They included this Andean species of bumblebee, the same genus (
Bombus) as ours.
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| Bombus rubicundus - PNN Chingaza, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Colias dimera - PNN Chingaza, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
We descended to the outskirts of the city and continued northeastward to the Siecha area where a series of human-made wetlands hold many waterbirds including the endemic, range-restricted Bogotá Rail. While many of the natural wetlands in these Andean valleys have been drained or modified over the years, the Bogotá Rail and some of the other Andean waterbirds have been able to adapt to other habitat sources.
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| Grassland Yellow-Finch - Siecha wetlands, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
Our hour at Siecha was very birdy, not just with waterbirds. We were met at the entrance by a pair of Grassland Yellow-Finches, a female Green-tailed Trainbearer and a Yellow-backed Oriole, while an Andean Siskin flew overhead. A Carib Grackle was also present.
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| Carib Grackle - Siecha wetlands, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
The Bogotá Rails put on a show with two individuals seen by the group and at least one more heard. I was just as happy with the Spot-flanked Gallinule that was peeking out of the aquatic vegetation as it was only the second time I had observed this species.
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| Spot-flanked Gallinule - Siecha wetlands, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
Andean Teals and Andean Ducks, gallinules and coots, one Pied-billed Grebe, a flock of Bare-faced Ibises and a huge gathering of Southern Lapwings rounded out the waterbird-ish sightings. Near the end of our time here a Band-tailed Seedeater flew in, while a few Yellow-hooded Blackbirds popped up into the reeds.
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| Band-tailed Seedeater - Siecha wetlands, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Yellow-hooded Blackbirds - Siecha wetlands, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
Our stomachs were grumbling and the lunch stop was timed perfectly; a band of rain washed over us while we enjoyed our ajiaco soup at a nearby restaurant. As the skies cleared, we drove the short distance to our next destination.
El Observatorio de Colibríes is a beautiful hummingbird garden set up east of Bogotá. At least a dozen hummingbird species are regular here including some highly sought ones. We enjoyed hot coffee and tea while the dazzling hummers took nectar mere feet from us.
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| Sparkling Violetear - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
Two of the crowd-pleasers were the ridiculous looking Sword-billed Hummingbird and the magnificent Great Sapphirewing, two species that I will never tire of. Fortunately, at least one of each were regular diners at the feeders.
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| Sword-billed Hummingird - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Great Sapphirewing - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Sword-billed Hummingbird - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
The hummingbird feeders were a great opportunity for everyone to have intimate views of species that had been observed that morning distantly in the forest. At close range, the colours and patterns were readily visible in different lighting situations. This was perhaps the most dramatic on the stunning Blue-throated Starfrontlet.
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| Blue-throated Starfrontlet - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Blue-throated Starfrontlet - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Blue-throated Starfrontlet - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Blue-throated Starfrontlet - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
Two species of pufflegs are known to frequent these feeders - the well-named Glowing and Coppery-bellied Pufflegs. One Glowing Puffleg made regular appearances though we had to wait until near the end of our visit before the Coppery-bellied Puffleg appeared. It was my second "lifer" of the day.
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| Glowing Puffleg - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Coppery-bellied Puffleg - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
In my previous experience, the Black-trailed Trainbearer is easier to find than the Green-tailed Trainbearer, even being common in the downtown core of cities like Quito, Ecuador. But here at Observatorio de Colibríes, several of each species were present. This provided a great opportunity to study the plumage differences.
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| Green-tailed Trainbearer - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Black-tailed Trainbearer - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Green-tailed Trainbearer - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Black-tailed Trainbearer - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Green-tailed Trainbearer - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
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| Black-tailed Trainbearer - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
And I will close with a photo of a Tyrian Metaltail which was the most numerous hummingbird that we encountered this day. It is sometimes easy to look pass them since they lack outrageous plumage features. But they are beautiful all the same.
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| Tyrian Metaltail - Observatorio de Colibríes, Cundinamarca, Colombia |
