Explorations of an Ecologist: Los Amigos Biological Station

Once Laura's father, Mark, returned to Canada, we had just one week remaining in our Peru adventure, a week that would be allocated to the Amazon. When planning our trip we wanted to ensure that sufficient time was spent in the Amazon. After all, it is the most biodiverse region of our planet. And while we had allotted some time during our week along Manú Road for exploring Amazonian forests, plus our four nights at the Secret Forest Research Station, we wanted more. Upon doing research and investigating the pros and cons of different Amazonian lodges and research stations, we settled on Los Amigos Biological Station for five nights.

Situated on the banks of the Río Madre de Díos, Los Amigos boasts a bird list of nearly 600 species, plus ten monkey species and untold mammals, herps, plants, insects and more. The birding is incredibly productive due to the diversity of habitats found a short walk from the station clearing. While staying at Los Amigos is certainly not cheap, the costs are more palatable than a similar stay at any of the ecolodges in Amazonian Peru. We arranged our visit through Amazon Conservation, the same organization that manages the Wayqecha and Manú Research Stations. Los Amigos costs 70 USD per person per night. Included in the cost are all meals, coffee/tea/hot chocolate at any time, and access to the trail network. Accommodations are simple, private rooms with mosquito netting around the bed, a ceiling fan and a private bathroom. Best of all, a guide is not required to visit the trails. You simply have to write on a white-board which trails you plan on visiting and when you will return, so that the staff know which trail to search for your carcass in the unlikely event that you are maimed by a wild animal. Reasonable enough!

I previously blogged about Los Amigos earlier this autumn. During our last full day at the station I had completed a birding big day on foot, tallying 265 species, and that blog post summarized the big day. This post will cover some of our other sightings at Los Amigos.

September 19, 2022

To reach Los Amigos, one has to take a long boat ride from the city of Puerto Maldonado. Our transport was coordinated by Amazon Conservation which included a taxi ride from our hostel in the city center to the docks in Laberinto. The Río Madre de Díos is the main highway in this land, and the boats serve as taxis. Ours was a colectivo type and we had to wait until every seat was taken. Even the central aisle was occupied, piled high with bags of rice, gasoline, tools and other cargo.

(photo of boat)

Due to frequent stopping of the boat and the long distance we needed to cover, it took 3-4 hours before we arrived at Los Amigos. Though I was prepared to experience the environmental destruction along the river, it was still a little shocking. Deforestation was rampant and illegal gold mining had occupied every stretch of the river. Mercury contamination in this river is extremely high because of the toxic chemicals used in the gold mining process. The government turns a blind eye to these activities as it provides a lot of work for a lot of people.

(river)

At last, the deforestation abruptly ended, telling us that we had reached Los Amigo's boundary. By the time that Laura and I walked up the 200 or so stairs to the research station, it was lunch time.

Los Amigos has an incredible 50 km+ trail system. And though we had plans to walk most sections, this afternoon we stayed relatively local. I added three lifers: a Creamy-bellied Thrush at the station clearing, a Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner with a mixed flock in a stand of bamboo, and a heard-only Ihering's Antwren.

Micrathyria sp. - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The research station clearing kept us busy for some time this first afternoon due to the different fruiting trees around its perimeter. We would go on to bird this clearing quite regularly, especially in the early afternoon when we were taking a mid-day break from the trails. During our six days at Los Amigos, I wouldn't be surprised if we tallied over 150 species just from the clearing alone.

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Large Elaenia - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

One particular corner of the clearing proved to be reliable for Blue-throated Piping-Guans and Blue-capped Manakins.

Blue-throated Piping-Guan - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Blue-capped Manakin - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

We found one of the coolest herps of our entire Los Amigos stay during that first afternoon. This is Uracentron flaviceps, the Tropical Thornytail Iguana. This elusive species is at home high in the canopy where they keep watch for their preferred prey items: various species of arboreal ants. They probably aren't that rare, just really tough to find due to their habitats.

Uracentron flaviceps - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Los Amigos is famous for its diversity of monkeys and we found nine of the ten species. During that first afternoon we had our first encounters with Brown Capuchin, Toppin's Titi, Weddell's Saddle-backed Tamarin and Black-capped Squirrel Monkey.

Brown Capuchin - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Black-capped Squirrel Monkey - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Weddell's Saddle-back Tamarin - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Toppin's Titi - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

That evening, Laura and I headed out on foot with our headlamps and flashlights, hoping for some interesting herps. Unfortunately, Laura was feeling the effects of heatstroke and only stayed out for a short visit before retreating to our room for the evening. We still found a few things together.

Unidentified conehead (Copiphorini sp.) - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

I was also feeling pretty tired but stayed out for a while, anyways.

Anolis punctatus - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Tityus sp. - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Erotylus voeti - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Leptodactylus didymus - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

I noticed what sounded like droplets or small fruits falling from the canopy onto the leaf litter. A brief investigation revealed that the items falling from the tree were little bits of a termite mound. And the culprit was a Southern Tamandua!

Southern Tamandua - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

There are four species of anteaters in the world, all of which are native to Central and South America. The famous one is the Giant Anteater, a mammal mainly of open plains and grasslands which Laura and I have seen in Colombia and Guyana. The smallest species is the diminutive Silky Anteater (split by some biologists into 6 or more species), which Laura and I have found in Trinidad. The Northern Tamandua ranges from Mexico through to northern Ecuador, and we have seen that species in several countries. But the Southern Tamandua was a lifer, and the final anteatear that I needed in the set!

Southern Tamandua - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

It was pretty neat to watch the anteater tear away at the termite round with its long claws and slurp up the insects with its incredibly long tongue (visible in the next photo).

Southern Tamandua - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

September 20, 2022

Our first full day at Los Amigos Biological Station. Breakfast was not served until 6:30 AM and so Laura and I spent the first hour of daylight birding the clearing as well as a short distance up Trail 10, which cut through bamboo stands. This decision to have a pre-breakfast walk was evidently the correct decision as we immediately found one of my most-wanted mammals for Los Amigos: a pair of Emperor Tamarins!

Emperor Tamarin - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The Emperor Tamarin allegedly receives its name due to its resemblance to German emperor Wilhelm II. This species is restricted in range to the southwest Amazon basin, mainly in southeastern Peru and adjacent Brazil. This species is often found in association with Weddell's Saddle-backed Tamarin; indeed, these two were with a group of saddlebacks.

Emperor Tamarin - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

This day was a bit of a whirlwind. The temperatures were unseasonably warm, reaching a high of 36 degrees with typical Amazonian 100% humidity, but I stayed out for the entire day to maximize my sightings. The only "break" was ninety minutes at the station clearing at midday where birding was still my main priority.

Double-toothed Kite - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Toppin's Titi - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Green-and-gold Tanager - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

All of the walking was worth it though as I saw or heard ten bird species for the first time! These included some widespread birds like Tui Parakeet, White-bellied Parrot and White-winged Shrike-Tanager, as well as some localized species like Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, White-throated Jacamar and Rufous-fronted Antthrush. The latter three are often big targets for visiting birders to Los Amigos.

White-throated Jacamar - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

As I have stated previously on numerous occasions, bird photography in the Amazon is tough. Really, really tough. Birds are often backlit high in the canopy, or unlit low in the understory. Even obtaining a grainy image can be considered a minor miracle at times. But today just happened to be a good photography day. Don't get me wrong, there were a lot of "record shots" mixed in with the good, but I lucked out with a few unexpected photoshoots. One of these was with a Golden-collared Toucanet which was nesting near the trail.

Golden-collared Toucanet - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

I lucked out with a cooperative Needle-billed Hermit in the same area.

Needle-billed Hermit - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

My lifer Sooty Antbird also provided unexpectedly awesome views!

Sooty Antbird - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Before you get the wrong impression of me, I will post some photos that are more representative of the quality you come to expect at this blog. Heavily cropped record shots. Bad photos of good birds. That's more like it!

Chestnut-capped Puffbird - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Pink-throated Becard - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Fiery-capped Manakin - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The butterfly action was pretty good at Los Amigos and I photographed a couple of really cool species that afternoon.

Brevianta amatheon - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Callicore cynosura - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Natada incandescens - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

This Black-faced Black Spider Monkey was just hanging out, keeping a close eye on us.

Black-faced Black Spider Monkey - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The Dark-billed Cuckoo is an austral migrant to southeastern Peru that is never common. Laura and I found another one this morning; the third or fourth that we had seen in the past week in the Amazon.

Dark-billed Cuckoo - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The Wing-barred Piprites is one of those Amazonian species that isn't common, but is regular enough in the right habitat. I might find one individual on average during a full day of birding suitable forest. Most encounters are by voice as they have a unique call series with a strange stutter partway through. I finally managed my first decent photo of one during a mid-day stroll on a trail close to the station clearing.

Wing-barred Piprites - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The Casqued Cacique is another species that I had high hopes of observing at Los Amigos, but I had no intel on places to look. I expected to see my first as a flyover at the river. Luckily, the experience was far more satisfying. Hearing some unfamiliar oropendola/cacique calls, we tracked the sounds to a small tree full of Casqued Caciques!

Casqued Cacique - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

This anole was a new species for us: Tanda's Anole (Anolis tandai).

Anolis tandai - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

As afternoon turned to evening we watched the birdlife at one of the owbow lakes.

Cocha Amigo - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The last bird I photographed for the day was this female White-winged Shrike-Tanager in the gloom of the understory.

White-winged Shrike-Tanager - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

That evening, Laura and I investigated a different area, following Trail 15 downhill to the "lower terrace" where the forest was wetter and less undulating. The hope was that diversity, especially for frogs, would be a bit higher.

Ferenta stolliana - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Anolis punctatus - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Blaberus sp. - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

Huntsman spider (Sparassidae sp.) - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

We found our first snake for Los Amigos, the ubiquitous Common Blunt-headed Treesnake (Imantodes cenchoa).

Imantodes cenchoa - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

An attractive Blue-lipped Tree Lizard (Plica umbra) was a welcome discovery.

Plica umbra - Los Amigos Biological Station, Madre de Díos, Peru

The frog diversity wasn't especially high, and exhaustion was encroaching which meant that we retreated back to our room before too long. Below are some of the frogs and insects I photographed in the lower terrace forest.