Laura and I had thoroughly enjoyed our visits to the Wayqecha and Manú Biological Stations. The birding was fantastic, the trail systems were extensive and the mothing and night-hiking opportunities were excellent. Additionally, it felt rather luxurious to have all of our meals taken care of.
We would have loved to stay in the forest for our full week along Manú Road but finances would not allow that. To save some cash, we opted to spend our remaining four nights at a hotel in the town of Pillcopata. While not cheap, the cost (around 50 CAD a night) was a lot less expensive than any of the lodge/research station options along Manú Road. Besides, since we had a rental vehicle with us, we had the freedom to explore anywhere we wanted along Manú Road.
September 6, 2022
Laura was not feeling well and so she opted out of this morning’s activities. I drove part of the way back up Manú Road and made a number of stops, mainly in the elevation band of 900-1800m.
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| Chestnut-eared Aracari - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
The lower range of this altitude produced a few new species. Two-banded Warblers were common and I had a brief encounter with my first Peruvian Piedtail. Two Rufous-crested Coquettes teed up on a dead snag and a mixed flock contained Yellow-breasted Antwren, Cerulean-capped Manakin, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant and gorgeous tanagers such as Paradise, Spotted and Yellow-bellied. A male Amazonian Umbrellabird showed well and a healthy selection of “ant-things” called from various locations.
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| Cerulean-capped Manakin - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
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| Cinnamon Flycatchers - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
The elevation between 1600-1800 was also quite productive, mainly because I ran into a large mixed flock.
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| Deep-blue Flowerpiercer - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
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| Beryl-spangled Tanager - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
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| Orange-eared Tanager - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
My first Slaty Tanagers and Bolivian Tyrannulets were in attendance with the flock.
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| Slaty Tanager - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
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| Bolivian Tyrannulet - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
Despite its relatively drab appearance, I enjoyed the latter species since one perched out at eye-level only a few meters from me.
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| Bolivian Tyrannulet - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
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| Bolivian Tyrannulet - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
An Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher trumped the Bolivian Tyrannulet experience. The views were nearly as good, while the bird was infinitely more attractive!
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| Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
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| Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher - Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
I kept an eye out for Solitary Eagles during the whole morning but it wasn’t to be. Manú Road is one of the most reliable places in the world to track down this rare raptor, or so I have been told. Unfortunately, with the clock ticking I had to leave this birdy area behind. I resolved to return another day with Laura.
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| Manú Road, Cusco, Peru |
Laura was feeling a little better in the afternoon and so we ventured out for some casual birding. The setting was a hummingbird and orchid garden called Inkamazonia. Run by an entrepreneurial family who understand the value in birding (and bird photography), Inkamazonia is located at the base of a forested hillside and attracts over 25 species of hummingbirds.
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| Rufous-crested Coquette - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
Laura and I showed up, paid our entrance fee, and immersed ourselves in the hummingbirds.
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| Gould's Jewelfront - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
The common species were the dazzling Golden-tailed Sapphires and Fork-tailed Wood-nymphs along with quite a few Gray-breasted Sabrewings.
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| Golden-tailed Sapphire - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Fork-tailed Woodnymph - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Gray-breasted Sabrewing - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
But there was so much more! The main attraction for many visiting birders at Inkamazonia is the opportunity to observe and photograph Rufous-crested Coquettes at close range. We were in luck and at least three individuals patrolled the feeders, holding their own against the much larger species.
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| Rufous-crested Coquette - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Rufous-crested Coquette - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
The male Rufous-crested Coquette is one of nature’s most absurd creations! With some patience I was rewarded with a photoshoot of the little stunner.
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| Rufous-crested Coquette - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Rufous-crested Coquette - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
The Koepcke’s Hermit is another big target at Inkamazonia since this shy forest dweller has a relatively limited range in the foothills of the eastern Peruvian Andes. We observed four other hermits well before finally obtaining good views of the Koepcke’s.
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| Koepcke's Hermit - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
The diminutive White-browed Hermit was one that I was pleased to catch up with. In this part of Peru, it looks nearly identical to the Reddish Hermit. Apparently, here in southeastern Peru the Reddish Hermit is found in lowlands while the White-browed Hermit resides in foothills.
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| White-browed Hermit - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
A single Amethyst Woodstar was the other life bird that I found at Inkamazonia. One would periodically buzz in, looking and sounding like a giant bumble-bee.
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| Amethyst Woodstar - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
The Blue-fronted Lancebill is another one of the showstoppers here. A male and female made regular visits to the feeders during our afternoon session.
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| Blue-fronted Lancebill - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
Below are a few other photographs from Inkamazonia. Though we dipped on the Buff-tailed Sicklebill (it apparently visits the Heliconia flowers, usually in the morning), we still tallied 17 species of hummingbirds. Not bad for the lowlands!
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| Violet-headed Hummingbird - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Golden-tailed Sapphire - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Green Honeycreeper and Blue Dacnis - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
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| Lemon-throated Barbet - Jardín de Picaflores Inkamazonia |
It had been a very full and birdy day but there was one more surprise in store for us. As dusk descended on our drive back to town, Laura excitedly pointed out a curassow that she spotted in a roadside cecropia tree! A Razor-billed Curassow!
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| Razor-billed Curassow - Pillcopata, Cusco, Peru |
Due to hunting pressure, Razor-billed Curassows can be quite rare near human habitation. Luckily, a decent population persists in this region of Manú Road. Still, I was not expecting my first Razor-billed Curassow to be located next to a road in an area of successional growth! Just an incredible species and one that we felt very lucky to see.
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| Razor-billed Curassow - Pillcopata, Cusco, Peru |
1 comment:
Hi, I'm loving reading your blogs belatedly--I looked them up knowing you're in No. Peru now, and heard you'd been in SE Peru over a year ago. I was keen to find out that you visited these places--in 2 months a small group of us will be going to the Manu Bio Station volunteering for 2 weeks and of course birding at every opportunity. Also taking the slow route from Cusco with a birding guide on Manu Rd. Will be just my second time in S. America (though several visits to Panama and Costa Rica). Can hardly wait!
I perked up my "ears" when you mentioned seeing the rare Koepcke's Hermit at Inkamazonia--you probably know the story behind its namesake (or it is her namesake)--I recently read the book about how she and her daughter fell 2 miles from the sky when their plane was struck by lightning and the daughter survived the fall and was able to walk out! because she knew the jungle. Fascinating.
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