January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp
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January 30, 2018
Laura awoke feeling much better which was excellent news after she had been out of commission for most of the previous day. We sipped on coffee and tea and ate cookies in the pre-dawn darkness as the Little Chachalacas fired up from around the lodge, signalling the beginning of another day.
Laura awoke feeling much better which was excellent news after she had been out of commission for most of the previous day. We sipped on coffee and tea and ate cookies in the pre-dawn darkness as the Little Chachalacas fired up from around the lodge, signalling the beginning of another day.
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| exploring near Rock View Lodge, Guyana |
Within the first fifteen minutes of walking we had spotted two Toco Toucans, the first toucans of any kind for Laura! The toucans fed for a few minutes while we watched, and though they were a little distant the views were excellent.
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| Toco Toucan - Rock View Lodge, Guyana |
A few minutes later a pair of Red-and-Green Macaws screeched from somewhere unseen and they too soon appeared, though they were a little distant. An interesting white spot on a distant tree was revealed as a Laughing Falcon when I looked through my binoculars.
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| Laughing Falcon - Rock View Lodge, Guyana |
We returned to the Uncle Dennis Trail for a second day in a row. This is where Laura had turned back yesterday since even taking the first few steps was enough to instigate nausea. Fortunately, today she was up for it!
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| Uncle Dennis Trail near Rock View Lodge, Guyana (take #2) |
We took our time, enjoying the sights and sounds. Laura was on constant herp patrol while Hendricks and I scanned the undergrowth and trees for movement. Occaionally Hendricks would teach us about some of the tree species and their utility with the Macushi people.
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| Exploring the Uncle Dennis Trail near Rock View, Guyana (photo by Laura Bond) |
We thoroughly enjoyed the walk. I only added one life bird (Violaceous Euphonia) but managed great views of a few other species, including this Sooty-capped Hermit that posed for us on a trail side branch. Laura found a few bats and lizards in a cave we passed, and we all enjoyed the breeze while standing at the viewpoints overlooking the savannah.
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| Sooty-capped Hermit - Uncle Dennis Trail near Rock View Lodge, Guyana |
We enjoyed another excellent breakfast upon our return, then packed up our bags and prepared to leave Rock View. Thomas, who had driven us to Karanambu, soon arrived to transport us to our next lodge, called Atta. We said our goodbyes to Colin, Hendricks and Andrica, while Laura had one last snuggle with Morty, Colin's cat. Then it was time to hit the road!
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| Laura and Morty - Rock View Lodge, Guyana |
We rumbled along the gravel road, heading east towards the forest. We had had an enjoyable time in the savannah but I was ready to visit the impressive forests which Guyana is known for. Atta Lodge is located deep within the protected Iwokrama Forest. This forest is one of the most biodiverse on earth, and is especially known for its fish and bat diversity, while also containing habitat for over 500 bird species. As we drove along, the savannah suddenly transitioned to forest and before long we were surrounded on all sides by massive tropical trees. It felt like the road could be swallowed up by the forest.
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| Highway near Atta Lodge, Guyana (photo by Laura Bond) |
Unfortunately Laura's stomach was not agreeing with the bumpy roads. When we checked in at the entrance gate to the forest to give the forest rangers our passport information she was looking quite green. Somehow she managed to keep it together for the rest of the drive and with some relief we arrived at Atta Lodge.
The heat and humidity was stifling as it was mid-day but even still, the Screaming Pihas were vocalizing like crazy. Finally, we were deep within primary rainforest, with the sights, sounds, and smells to accompany us.
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| Atta Lodge, Guyana |
We were given a quick briefing of the lodge and were introduced to Delon, who would be our private guide for our time at Atta. Like Hendricks at Rock View Lodge, Delon also was from the village of Annai. We were the only guests at the lodge for our first night, while another couple would be staying at the lodge during our second and third nights, but we pretty much had the place to ourselves.
A brief note about guides during our Guyana trip. When I originally booked everything I was not aware that we would be getting our own private guide at each lodge we were staying at - I thought the "all inclusive" price including just lodging and meals. Most of the guides we had were excellent, and we did not have to share them with anyone else which was definitely a bonus. I did not know this at the time but at most of the lodges you had to be accompanied by a guide when going out on a trail - solo exploring was prohibited. Ostensibly this was for safety purposes but it was a little frustrating for me as much of the enjoyment I receive out of traveling comes through exploration and the moment of discovery. Being accompanied by a guide does not remove that aspect completely but it does diminish it a bit. I also find I become more complacent when out exploring with a guide, subconsciously waiting for them to point out the animal, instead of searching for it intently on my own. Fortunately our guides were very flexible and willing to accompany us on hikes whenever we liked as opposed to just at the structured times set up by the lodges.
Like I said however, most of our guides were excellent and by hiring a guide one is contributing to the local economy. Ecotourism is growing in Guyana and it is good to see more and more people becoming guides or otherwise working in the ecotourism industry. If the forests of the Guianan Shield become valuable due to the ecotourism benefits they provide, perhaps it will ensure that more of these forests will be protected.
Though it was the stifling middle part of the day when we arrived at Atta, I was itching to go for a walk and Delon was happy to accompany me. Laura had a nap in the room to help the nausea from the car ride subside while Delon and I did a short circuit on one of the trails.
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| Striped Forest Whiptail - Atta Lodge, Guyana |
I think I added eight life birds during our walk, despite the forest being nearly silent at that time of day (except for the Screaming Pihas, of course!). A pair of Red-necked Woodpeckers (below) were impressive to watch, while I also saw a few specialties of the area including Guianan Warbling-Antbird, Tiny Tyrant-Manakin, Rufous-throated Antbird, Marail Guan and Caica Parrot. We also found our first of many Striped Forest Whiptails. What a start to our time in the forest!
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| Red-necked Woodpecker - Atta Lodge, Guyana |
Returning to my room I noticed a small hummingbird perched above some flowers just outside our door, which turned out to be a female Racket-tailed Coquette! This uncommon species is found in the northern Amazon basin and the males are adorned with spectacular tail feathers. The females are a little less extravagant but quite beautiful all the same.
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| Racket-tailed Coquette - Atta Lodge, Guyana |
Upon returning to the lodge, I grabbed my bird book and scope and found a nice bench to sit on outside of our room, with my scope trained at the distant treetops should a mixed flock move through. Laura joined me for a bit as well, feeling a little refreshed after her rest.
Among the birds that passed, I added four new ones, including several tanagers, a greenlet, and Black-eared Fairy (a type of hummingbird). The biggest highlight, however, was a pair of Spangled Cotingas! Delon first spotted them, as he was also scoping some of the treetops from near the main lodge building. While they were a little distant for good digiscoped photos, the views through the scope were incredible. The electric blue and purple of the male provided a pulse of colour in the canopy.
That afternoon Laura and I met up with Delon around 4:00 PM for a walk through the forest to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, located a short distance from the lodge. We marveled at the massive trees and the sounds of the forest as we slowly walked along. Climbing the steps to the beginning of the canopy walkway was difficult for Laura and I in the oppressive heat and humidity, though Delon hardly broke a sweat.
Built with funds from the Canadian International Development Agency, the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway consists of several aluminum platforms connected with suspension bridge style walkways. It provides access to the middle and upper levels of the forest, and it is possible to scan over the treetops for miles from some of the platforms. By spending several hours on the canopy walkway, it is possible to see a wide range of species, some which are rarely observed when birding from the forest floor.
For an hour and a half we stayed on the canopy walkway, marveling at the bird life while Guianan Red Howler Monkeys roared in the distance. Delon and I carefully scoped the distant treetops, hoping to pick up raptors or cotingas, and occasionally a small group of birds would pass through the canopy near where we were standing.
Four species of toucans, Guianan Woodcreeper, Waved Woodpeckers, Marail Guans, a half dozen species of parrots and parakeets, and several vocal Red-throated Caracaras were just a few of the many highlights of our time on the canopy walkway. I was quite happy with my decision to bring my scope and phone adapter to Guyana, as it enabled me to digiscope many species that were too distant for my camera and 300 mm lens.
Afternoon was turning to evening and it was unfortunately time to head back to the lodge. Delon had one more bird species in mind before we called it a day, however. It turns out that White-winged Potoos are occasionally seen or heard along the entrance road to Atta Lodge, or along the main highway near here. This poorly known species is patchily distributed in northern Amazonia and there are few places where this species is reliably encountered.
We walked down the entrance road around dusk and arrived at the road to begin our vigil. Delon played some tape for the bird as darkness fell, and we all strained our ears, hoping to pick out the distinctive descending whistle from the treetops, without any success. While we waited, we frequently scanned down the highway, hoping to see a Jaguar or Ocelot cross the road and slip into the forest (wishful thinking perhaps, but it could happen!).
Eventually we admitted defeat and began heading back to the lodge for dinner. The potoo may have been a no-show but at least we heard some Guianan Puffbirds calling from deep within the forest wall next to the road. On the walk back Laura and I used our flashlights to scan the vegetation for herps, while Delon continued to scan for potoo eyeshine. Miraculously, he spotted one, and it was a White-winged!! I was ecstatic, and we set up the scopes to obtain a better look.
The potoo was on a dead snag way up in the canopy, and with the help of Delon's spotlight we were able to see the pertinent identification features in the scope, including the broad white patch on the wing coverts. For Laura's first ever potoo, it was a good one!
Completely satisfied with our first afternoon and evening at Atta, we walked back to the lodge to enjoy a delicious meal. Around 8 PM we retired to our room, where we enjoyed the open air shower. The cold water felt amazing while we stood under the stars, and before long we were in bed, exhausted after an excellent day in Guyana.
Introduction
January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp
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| Atta Lodge, Guyana |
Among the birds that passed, I added four new ones, including several tanagers, a greenlet, and Black-eared Fairy (a type of hummingbird). The biggest highlight, however, was a pair of Spangled Cotingas! Delon first spotted them, as he was also scoping some of the treetops from near the main lodge building. While they were a little distant for good digiscoped photos, the views through the scope were incredible. The electric blue and purple of the male provided a pulse of colour in the canopy.
 |
| Spangled Cotinga - Atta Lodge, Guyana |
That afternoon Laura and I met up with Delon around 4:00 PM for a walk through the forest to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, located a short distance from the lodge. We marveled at the massive trees and the sounds of the forest as we slowly walked along. Climbing the steps to the beginning of the canopy walkway was difficult for Laura and I in the oppressive heat and humidity, though Delon hardly broke a sweat.
 |
| Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Guyana |
Built with funds from the Canadian International Development Agency, the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway consists of several aluminum platforms connected with suspension bridge style walkways. It provides access to the middle and upper levels of the forest, and it is possible to scan over the treetops for miles from some of the platforms. By spending several hours on the canopy walkway, it is possible to see a wide range of species, some which are rarely observed when birding from the forest floor.
 |
| Marail Guan - Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Guyana |
For an hour and a half we stayed on the canopy walkway, marveling at the bird life while Guianan Red Howler Monkeys roared in the distance. Delon and I carefully scoped the distant treetops, hoping to pick up raptors or cotingas, and occasionally a small group of birds would pass through the canopy near where we were standing.
 |
| Black-eared Fairy - Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Guyana |
Four species of toucans, Guianan Woodcreeper, Waved Woodpeckers, Marail Guans, a half dozen species of parrots and parakeets, and several vocal Red-throated Caracaras were just a few of the many highlights of our time on the canopy walkway. I was quite happy with my decision to bring my scope and phone adapter to Guyana, as it enabled me to digiscope many species that were too distant for my camera and 300 mm lens.
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| Green Aracari pair - Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Guyana |
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| Red-throated Caracara - Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Guyana |
Afternoon was turning to evening and it was unfortunately time to head back to the lodge. Delon had one more bird species in mind before we called it a day, however. It turns out that White-winged Potoos are occasionally seen or heard along the entrance road to Atta Lodge, or along the main highway near here. This poorly known species is patchily distributed in northern Amazonia and there are few places where this species is reliably encountered.
We walked down the entrance road around dusk and arrived at the road to begin our vigil. Delon played some tape for the bird as darkness fell, and we all strained our ears, hoping to pick out the distinctive descending whistle from the treetops, without any success. While we waited, we frequently scanned down the highway, hoping to see a Jaguar or Ocelot cross the road and slip into the forest (wishful thinking perhaps, but it could happen!).
Eventually we admitted defeat and began heading back to the lodge for dinner. The potoo may have been a no-show but at least we heard some Guianan Puffbirds calling from deep within the forest wall next to the road. On the walk back Laura and I used our flashlights to scan the vegetation for herps, while Delon continued to scan for potoo eyeshine. Miraculously, he spotted one, and it was a White-winged!! I was ecstatic, and we set up the scopes to obtain a better look.
 |
| White-winged Potoo - Atta Lodge entrance road, Guyana |
The potoo was on a dead snag way up in the canopy, and with the help of Delon's spotlight we were able to see the pertinent identification features in the scope, including the broad white patch on the wing coverts. For Laura's first ever potoo, it was a good one!
Completely satisfied with our first afternoon and evening at Atta, we walked back to the lodge to enjoy a delicious meal. Around 8 PM we retired to our room, where we enjoyed the open air shower. The cold water felt amazing while we stood under the stars, and before long we were in bed, exhausted after an excellent day in Guyana.
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Introduction
January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp
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