January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp
----------
February 9, 2018
Chachalacas are large, chicken like birds that are found throughout much of Central and South America. Closely related to guans and curassows, the chachalacas are smaller members of that group that are often quite social and frequently seen in the vegetation surrounding human habitation. The local flavor of chachalaca on Tobago is the Rufous-vented, a species that alsocan be found in northern Colombia and Venezuela. Chachalacas are well-known for their distinctive vocalizations, often sung in chorus by several individuals before and during the dawn hours. This was certainly the case in Tobago; the Rufous-vented Chachalacas served well in their role of alarm clock.
For our second full day on Tobago, Laura and I planned on driving across the island to the far eastern side, near the town of Speyside. Lying just a few kilometers offshore was Little Tobago Island, renowned for its seabird colonies. We were hoping to snag a ride across to the island to explore for a few hours. Of particular interest to me was the possibility of observing both Red-billed Tropicbird and Red-footed Booby, the last two potential "lifers" I could find during this time of year on Tobago.
It was another beautiful, sunny morning as we made our way along the narrow roads that followed the coastline. As we neared the northeast part of the island, Laura suddenly yelled "snake!" - she had seen a large black snake basking on the embankment of the road as we drove past. Fortunately there was a place just up ahead to pull off the road so I directly the Jimmy there, slammed on the e-brake and ran back up the road. The tail end of a huge black snake could be seen disappearing up the grassy slope so I made a run for it and snagged its tail, seconds before the snake disappeared into the thicket at the top of the embankment. It took a few more minutes before I was able to maintain a decent grip on the irate snake, though it did give me a couple of nips in the process. It was our first ever Tiger Ratsnake!
Named after one of its dietary preferences, the Chicken Snake or Tiger Ratsnake is one of the largest species found in Trinidad and Tobago. This one was a large adult, measuring in somewhere between six and seven feet in total length, providing a good bit of excitement to start the day. Nice spotting, Laura!
We bought our passage onto a glass-bottomed boat (from Top Ranking Boat Tours) that does regular trips to Little Tobago Island for a fee, then relaxed outside the Blue Water's Inn while we waited until the allotted boarding time. We were able to negotiate a lower rate for the boat tour than what is usually advertised, paying 30 USD each. Just offshore, Red-billed Tropicbirds could be seen at a great distance, while Magnificent Frigatebirds soared along the coastline. This caterpillar crawling out in the open was impossible to miss; it is the larval form of the Tetrio Sphinx Moth.
Soon we made our way out of the sheltered bay and across a short stretch of open water while the wind buffeted the boat. Our first Red-footed Boobies appeared in the sky and I snapped a few photos of one individual that passed rather close to our boat. Meanwhile, we enjoyed much better looks at the Red-billed Tropicbirds.
We shared the boat trip with just two other passengers (a couple from England), as well as the guide, Paul. We enjoyed the views from the dock looking back at Tobago, then went for a walk along a trail through the forest to take us to a scenic viewpoint. Along the way I stopped to photograph this Bananaquit.
From this viewpoint it was possible to have "top-down" views of all the seabirds. Red-billed Tropicbirds gracefully whipped past at eye-level while further down, a mixture of Brown and Red-footed Bobbies swirled over the waters.
A few Red-billed Tropicbirds were even nesting close to where the trail passed by. Most of the young were nearly full-grown; it was a treat to observe several of the nests.
Before heading back to Tobago, we were given the option to snorkel just offshore Little Tobago Island. The seas were a bit rough though we did see some things; unfortunately after only 15-20 minutes we were summoned to go.
Overall our experience with Top Ranking Boat Tours was mediocre; we were able to negotiate a lower price, but we didn't really see anything through the glass bottom (it was just a small window, and we didn't spend any time going in shallower waters to make it actually useful). The snorkeling was also a bit useless given that we were only allotted 20 minutes in the water. Additionally, the guide, Paul, forced us to pay him an additional fee for his guiding services; I sort of assumed this would be included in the up-front price we paid, but did not explicitly confirm this at the time. He was kind of useless as a guide but I think that is because most of the people they cater too have no knowledge of the birds or widlife of the area. I called him out on mis-identifications once or twice as well. At any rate, at least we were able to get over to Little Tobago Island and see all the seabirds we were hoping to.
That afternoon we finished driving around the eastern part of Tobago and made our way back to the north coast. We stopped for several hours at Castara Bay, as it had been recommend as a decent snorkeling spot. We rented snorkles and masks and enjoyed a few hours in the water. It was a great way to pass the hot hours of the afternoon!
Later that evening on our way back to Cuffie River I noticed a snake on the road and quickly stopped. I was pretty sure it was a species of Pseudoboa at the time, but was unsure of the species. We brought it with us the remaining three minutes down the road to the lodge, where we would be able to use the wifi to help identify him.
We identified the snake as a Pseudoboa neuwiedii, a species that ranges through northern South America, and one I had never seen before. After a brief photoshoot we let it on its way. A great way to end another great day in Tobago. The trip was starting to wind down though, as in the morning we would be back on our way to the airport, and from there, one night in Trinidad before flying home.
Introduction
January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp
 |
| Rufous-vented Chachalaca - Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Tobago |
For our second full day on Tobago, Laura and I planned on driving across the island to the far eastern side, near the town of Speyside. Lying just a few kilometers offshore was Little Tobago Island, renowned for its seabird colonies. We were hoping to snag a ride across to the island to explore for a few hours. Of particular interest to me was the possibility of observing both Red-billed Tropicbird and Red-footed Booby, the last two potential "lifers" I could find during this time of year on Tobago.
It was another beautiful, sunny morning as we made our way along the narrow roads that followed the coastline. As we neared the northeast part of the island, Laura suddenly yelled "snake!" - she had seen a large black snake basking on the embankment of the road as we drove past. Fortunately there was a place just up ahead to pull off the road so I directly the Jimmy there, slammed on the e-brake and ran back up the road. The tail end of a huge black snake could be seen disappearing up the grassy slope so I made a run for it and snagged its tail, seconds before the snake disappeared into the thicket at the top of the embankment. It took a few more minutes before I was able to maintain a decent grip on the irate snake, though it did give me a couple of nips in the process. It was our first ever Tiger Ratsnake!
 |
| Tiger Ratsnake (Spilotes pullatus) - near Charlotteville, Tobago |
Named after one of its dietary preferences, the Chicken Snake or Tiger Ratsnake is one of the largest species found in Trinidad and Tobago. This one was a large adult, measuring in somewhere between six and seven feet in total length, providing a good bit of excitement to start the day. Nice spotting, Laura!
 |
| Tiger Ratsnake (Spilotes pullatus) - near Charlotteville, Tobago |
We bought our passage onto a glass-bottomed boat (from Top Ranking Boat Tours) that does regular trips to Little Tobago Island for a fee, then relaxed outside the Blue Water's Inn while we waited until the allotted boarding time. We were able to negotiate a lower rate for the boat tour than what is usually advertised, paying 30 USD each. Just offshore, Red-billed Tropicbirds could be seen at a great distance, while Magnificent Frigatebirds soared along the coastline. This caterpillar crawling out in the open was impossible to miss; it is the larval form of the Tetrio Sphinx Moth.
 |
| Tetrio Sphinx Moth - Blue Waters Inn, Tobago |
Soon we made our way out of the sheltered bay and across a short stretch of open water while the wind buffeted the boat. Our first Red-footed Boobies appeared in the sky and I snapped a few photos of one individual that passed rather close to our boat. Meanwhile, we enjoyed much better looks at the Red-billed Tropicbirds.
 |
| Red-footed Booby - Little Tobago Island |
We shared the boat trip with just two other passengers (a couple from England), as well as the guide, Paul. We enjoyed the views from the dock looking back at Tobago, then went for a walk along a trail through the forest to take us to a scenic viewpoint. Along the way I stopped to photograph this Bananaquit.
 |
| Bananaquit - Little Tobago Island |
 |
| looking north from Little Tobago Island |
 |
| looking north from Little Tobago Island |
From this viewpoint it was possible to have "top-down" views of all the seabirds. Red-billed Tropicbirds gracefully whipped past at eye-level while further down, a mixture of Brown and Red-footed Bobbies swirled over the waters.
 |
| Brown Boobies - Little Tobago Island |
 |
| Red-billed Tropicbird - Little Tobago Island |
 |
| Red-billed Tropicbird - Little Tobago Island |
A few Red-billed Tropicbirds were even nesting close to where the trail passed by. Most of the young were nearly full-grown; it was a treat to observe several of the nests.
 |
| Red-billed Tropicbirds - Little Tobago Island |
Overall our experience with Top Ranking Boat Tours was mediocre; we were able to negotiate a lower price, but we didn't really see anything through the glass bottom (it was just a small window, and we didn't spend any time going in shallower waters to make it actually useful). The snorkeling was also a bit useless given that we were only allotted 20 minutes in the water. Additionally, the guide, Paul, forced us to pay him an additional fee for his guiding services; I sort of assumed this would be included in the up-front price we paid, but did not explicitly confirm this at the time. He was kind of useless as a guide but I think that is because most of the people they cater too have no knowledge of the birds or widlife of the area. I called him out on mis-identifications once or twice as well. At any rate, at least we were able to get over to Little Tobago Island and see all the seabirds we were hoping to.
 |
| Trinidad Motmot - Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Tobago |
That afternoon we finished driving around the eastern part of Tobago and made our way back to the north coast. We stopped for several hours at Castara Bay, as it had been recommend as a decent snorkeling spot. We rented snorkles and masks and enjoyed a few hours in the water. It was a great way to pass the hot hours of the afternoon!
Later that evening on our way back to Cuffie River I noticed a snake on the road and quickly stopped. I was pretty sure it was a species of Pseudoboa at the time, but was unsure of the species. We brought it with us the remaining three minutes down the road to the lodge, where we would be able to use the wifi to help identify him.
 |
| Pseudoboa neuwiedii - Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Tobago |
We identified the snake as a Pseudoboa neuwiedii, a species that ranges through northern South America, and one I had never seen before. After a brief photoshoot we let it on its way. A great way to end another great day in Tobago. The trip was starting to wind down though, as in the morning we would be back on our way to the airport, and from there, one night in Trinidad before flying home.
 |
| Pseudoboa neuwiedii - Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Tobago |
----------
Introduction
January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp
No comments:
Post a Comment