Explorations of an Ecologist: Guatemala, 2019, Part 6: Volcán San Pedro

Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Thorn forest in the Motagua Valley (January 18-19, 2019)
Part 3: Los Rachitos del Quetzal (January 19-20, 2019)
Part 4: Sierra de Los Cuchumatanes (January 20-21, 2019)
Part 5: Reserva Natural Atitlán (January 21-22, 2019)
Part 6: Volcán San Pedro (January 23, 2019)
Part 7: Cerro Rostra Maya, Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 24, 2019)
Part 8: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 25, 2019)
Part 9: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 26-27, 2019)
Part 10: Parque Nacional Tikal (January 28, 2019)
Part 11: El Caoba former airstrip, Tikal former airstrip (January 29, 2019)
Part 12: Parque Nacional Tikal, Uaxactún (January 30, 2019)
Part 13: El Remate and Flores (January 31, 2019)

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January 23, 2019

The Horned Guan is a unique member of the guan and curassow family known as Cracidae. Mainly due to habitat loss and unsustainable hunting pressures, the Horned Guan is now only found on only a few isolated mountain tops and volcanoes in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas as well as west-central Guatemala, and the total population is thought to number less than 1,700 birds. The species is now classified as Endangered by IUCN. Needless to say, this tree turkey was a top target for Dan and I, perhaps even our most wanted bird. Horned Guans are huge, black and white birds with a bright pink horn on the top of their head - a spectacular bird to lay eyes upon.

Volcán San Pedro is one place where a population of Horned Guans can still be found. The only problem is that they are still somewhat scarce here, and our chances of coming across one were likely 50/50, or less. From reading birding trip reports from Guatemala, it seemed that to increase our odds we needed to be the first people up the trail in the morning. Hiring a guide would also help since they often know the locations where trees are fruiting, or where guans are frequently seen.

Dan and I figured that we would try on our own, to save potential costs of hiring a guide. If we "dipped" on our target at Volcán San Pedro, we could fork out 100 USD to hire a guide later in the trip at Los Torrales, another location that has a population of Horned Guans.

View of San Pedro La Laguna - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

We were up early and the sky was still dark when we began our ascent of Volcán San Pedro. It appeared that we were the first ones on the trail so we were optimistic as we tackled the first few hundred meters of elevation gain.

We listened to the repetitive songs of Mexican Whip-poor-wills, the trills of Whiskered Screech-Owls and the low hooting of a Great Horned Owl as we climbed. The path snaked through a coffee plantation for the first few hours, and as dawn broke we slowly began adding species. None were new for us, however - that would have to wait until we reached the nicer forest at higher elevations.

Golden-browed Warbler - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

But we did have one nice surprise in the coffee plantation - a White-faced Quail-Dove! We enjoyed brief but excellent views of the shy bird as it quietly stepped among the shrubbery in the understorey.

Soon, the forest began to change and with it came a new suite of species. A Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo provided great (though partially backlit) views, Mountain Trogons sang from somewhere distant, our first of many Mexican Violetears called from the mid-storey, and some Singing Quails fired off from a thicket beside the trail. Fortunately the temperatures had remained cool, since the 600 m that we gained in elevation during the first two hours had caused our heart rates to spike.

Mexican Violetear - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

At one point we came across two dogs which followed us for the next hour. One was particularly fond of Dan.

Dan making friends - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

Eventually the trail passed by a partial clearing surrounded by massive oak trees. Suddenly we heard an interesting call - could it be? The bird called again - a low, grating croak. A Horned Guan! We scrutinized the wall of foliage and I noticed a huge, white and black bird, walking along one of the branches. I excitedly got Dan on the bird and we soaked in the views of the beaut.

Horned Guan - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

The early morning followed by the strenuous hiking was all worth it as we stood here, in the presence of a Horned Guan. Eventually it moved out of sight, flying to a different tree with incredibly loud wing flaps. Dan and I were elated and we still had much of the day ahead of us.

The forest was clearly higher quality now that we were above 2600 m, and many of the day's target birds were soon spotted. These included Wine-throated Hummingbird (we would go on to see around ten of them!), Crescent-chested Warbler, Pine Flycatcher, Guatemalan Tyrannulet, and both Garnet-throated and Amethyst-throated Hummingbirds. A pair of Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercers perched out in the open for quite a while, allowing Dan and I to take a series of photos.

Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

Guatemalan Tyrannulet - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

Wine-throated Hummingbird - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

The last hour of hiking was brutally tiring (for me, at least!) as we approached the rim of the caldera. Finally, at around 12:30 PM, we scrambled up the last few steps, reaching the summit. We had gained around 1400 meters of elevation during the seven hour ascent, causing the view from the top to be absolutely breathtaking. The entire Lago de Atitlán was visible, as well as several adjacent volcanoes.

Several butterflies, including this Donysa Sister (Adelpha donysa) were flitting in the sunlight along the rim of the caldera, as Dan and I relaxed and ate our breakfast that the hotel had packed for us. An omelette on bread never tasted so good!

Donysa Sister - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

The descent was a little easier than the ascent, though both of us noted that our thighs felt like jelly for much of the walk. The birding was definitely a little slower - it was now the early afternoon - but a jolt of excitement renewed our focus when we passed by the Horned Guan area. One (the same one?) was still in the area, this time providing even better looks than our first go-around. Awesome!

Horned Guan - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

The rest of the hike was relatively uneventful. We passed two more hikers, upping the grand total to six. Some of the trip reports warned that the trail up Volcán San Pedro was overrun with hikers, and the birding was slow. We found this to be entirely false during our visit; few others were on the trail and it was also one of the birdiest days of the trip. Nearly all of our potential targets were accounted for, in addition to the Horned Guan.

Mexican Longwing - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

By late afternoon we had descended to the lower reaches of the trail. We passed through the coffee plantation and then through a section of dry scrub, adding new day birds here and there.

Rufous-capped Warbler - Volcán San Pedro, Sololá, Guatemala

Fully exhausted and out of food and water, we eventually arrived back at the truck. Fortunately the drive back to the Ecohotel was very quick and in short order we were back on our balcony, watching the birds with a cold beer in our hands. It had been an absolutely incredible day!

Red-legged Honeycreeper - Ecohotel Uxlabil, San Pedro La Laguna, Sololá, Guatemala

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Tuesday 2 April 2019

Guatemala, 2019, Part 6: Volcán San Pedro

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