Part 2: Thorn forest in the Motagua Valley (January 18-19, 2019)
Part 3: Los Rachitos del Quetzal (January 19-20, 2019)
Part 4: Sierra de Los Cuchumatanes (January 20-21, 2019)
Part 5: Reserva Natural Atitlán (January 21-22, 2019)
Part 6: Volcán San Pedro (January 23, 2019)
Part 7: Cerro Rostra Maya, Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 24, 2019)
Part 8: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 25, 2019)
Part 9: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 26-27, 2019)
Part 10: Parque Nacional Tikal (January 28, 2019)
Part 11: El Caoba former airstrip, Tikal former airstrip (January 29, 2019)
Part 12: Parque Nacional Tikal, Uaxactún (January 30, 2019)
Part 13: El Remate and Flores (January 31, 2019)
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January 29, 2019
Following our excellent day spent exploring Tikal, we decided to switch things up for the following day. We had nearly four full days in the north of Guatemala and with the freedom that having a car afforded, decided it was worth exploring further afield. That would also enable us to drive all the way back to the entrance gate to the National Park to purchase tickets to visit the ruins again on the following day.
Dan and I headed south to the town of El Caoba, a short drive away. One bird we were really hoping to connect with was the range-restricted Black-throated Bobwhite, a species that can be found in the shrubby grasslands and thickets around El Caoba. Our first stop was at an abandoned airstrip which seemed to have a number of eBird reports of the species.
Unfortunately we drew a blank despite a couple of hours spent walking up and down the airstrip, but it was a beautiful morning to be out. As we were in a new habitat many of the birds we saw and heard were new for the trip, including White-eyed Vireo, Gray Catbird, Mealy Parrot, Scaled Pigeon and Pale-vented Pigeon.
We made one more stop prior to driving back to Tikal - this time, at a wetland called El Juleque located just outside El Caoba. The uncommon Pinnated Bittern had been found here in the past which is a species that Dan had never seen. Unfortunately we were not in luck during our visit, though we added a few additional trip birds in Laughing Falcon and Blue-black Grassquit. From there, we headed back to Tikal, stopping at the gates to the national park on the way to purchase our tickets for the following day.
Dan and I rested for a bit at the hotel, taking time to have lunch and bird a little bit. A pair of Gartered Trogons provided amazing looks as they foraged just above our heads.
By midday Dan and I decided to explore the trail that leads to the Crocodile Pond, which we had explored the previous evening. This trail cuts straight through scrub and secondary forest, containing a nice variety of bird species. It was warm and sunny when we began our walk, but the temperatures were still below the seasonal average so the birding was relatively comfortable. A few lekking White-collared Manakins were some of the first birds we viewed, followed by a Royal Flycatcher.
A nearby mixed flock contained some Yellow-rumped Warblers and our only Blue-winged Warbler of the trip.
We stopped briefly at the Crocodile Pond where there were several butterflies flitting around, including this Dorantes Longtail.
Only a few minutes later, some quiet rustling from the side of the path drew our attention to some Ocellated Turkeys. Nine were present and they did not seem too disturbed with our presence. Dan and I used this opportunity to really study their plumage. Photography was more of a challenge because of the harsh, mid-day light but we made do.
The birding remained good as we continued down the trail. I was thrilled to see my first ever Buff-bellied Hummingbirds!
As we walked, the habitat slowly began to transition into mature forest, and the species composition changed along with it. New trip birds kept appearing - Ruddy Quail-Dove, Black-faced Antthrush, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. This Slaty-tailed Trogon posed briefly for photos. I love the Slaty-tailed/Black-tailed group of trogons - big, with a huge orange bill!
We had an interesting interaction with a troup of Central American Spider Monkeys that ended with them attempting to urinate on us! We high-tailed out of there....
Talk about being up to no good!
We had gone about five kilometers in a straight line down the track before we decided to turn around. What lay at the end of this path had piqued our interest - perhaps there was some unknown-to-the-public ruin down this path that only the researchers know about.
We paused at the Crocodile Pond for half an hour upon our return as the time was now mid-afternoon and bird activity was slowly increasing. Here we heard a Pheasant Cuckoo, watched a singing Purple-crowned Fairy, and observed a couple of Russet-naped Wood-Rails bathing at the water's edge (a very dangerous proposition that has to be done carefully, given the crocodile population).
The Pheasant Cuckoo continued to call and we soon passed an American couple with a guide who were trying to spot it. Eventually we continued on, but they quickly waved us back as they had spotted the bird! Thanks to them, Dan and I had our first ever looks at this difficult to find species. Just as my camera was focusing, the Pheasant Cuckoo took flight to a more obscured section of scrubby woodland.
That evening we headed back to the pond for a night hike. The temperatures were perhaps a degree or two warmer this evening, giving us hope that reptiles would be a little more active.
A few Silky Anoles were our first finds. This species is best identified by having the American flag on its dewlap!
We walked around the perimeter of the pond, scanning for eyeshine while also keeping an eye to the ground for snakes. A Mottled Owl flushed from its perch, high above the wetland, while Morelet's Crocodiles watched us closely from their murky retreat. Just their unblinking eyes were visible above the water's surface.
We were 2/3 of the way around the pond when a slithering shape caught my eye. The snake nearly got away from me into a thorn and ant-riden Acacia thicket, but a dive and grab later and I was holding the little guy.
This is a Black-striped Snake (Coniophanes imperialis), a new one for both Dan and I. It is found from the Rio Grande Valley in Texas south along the Caribbean coast of Mexico, through Guatemala and Belize and into extreme northern Honduras. This nocturnal species preys on small vertebrates, especially lizards and frogs.
Spurred on with our success we continued our lap of the Crocodile Pond. I noticed a second snake crawling on the ground, this one a Leptodeira that upon close inspection was a Spotted Cat-eyed Snake (Leptodeira polysticta). Just a gorgeous individual!!
We finished our night hike with this spectacular tarantula, a Guatemalan Red-rumped Tarantula (Brachypelma sabulosum).
The next day we had plans to explore the archaeological site once more. It was hard to believe that this would be our last full day of the trip already!
Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Thorn forest in the Motagua Valley (January 18-19, 2019)
Part 3: Los Rachitos del Quetzal (January 19-20, 2019)
Part 4: Sierra de Los Cuchumatanes (January 20-21, 2019)
Part 5: Reserva Natural Atitlán (January 21-22, 2019)
Part 6: Volcán San Pedro (January 23, 2019)
Part 7: Cerro Rostra Maya, Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 24, 2019)
Part 8: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 25, 2019)
Part 9: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 26-27, 2019)
Part 10: Parque Nacional Tikal (January 28, 2019)
Part 11: El Caoba former airstrip, Tikal former airstrip (January 29, 2019)
Part 12: Parque Nacional Tikal, Uaxactún (January 30, 2019)
Part 13: El Remate and Flores (January 31, 2019)
Dan and I headed south to the town of El Caoba, a short drive away. One bird we were really hoping to connect with was the range-restricted Black-throated Bobwhite, a species that can be found in the shrubby grasslands and thickets around El Caoba. Our first stop was at an abandoned airstrip which seemed to have a number of eBird reports of the species.
Unfortunately we drew a blank despite a couple of hours spent walking up and down the airstrip, but it was a beautiful morning to be out. As we were in a new habitat many of the birds we saw and heard were new for the trip, including White-eyed Vireo, Gray Catbird, Mealy Parrot, Scaled Pigeon and Pale-vented Pigeon.
 |
| Band-winged Dragonlet - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
We made one more stop prior to driving back to Tikal - this time, at a wetland called El Juleque located just outside El Caoba. The uncommon Pinnated Bittern had been found here in the past which is a species that Dan had never seen. Unfortunately we were not in luck during our visit, though we added a few additional trip birds in Laughing Falcon and Blue-black Grassquit. From there, we headed back to Tikal, stopping at the gates to the national park on the way to purchase our tickets for the following day.
Dan and I rested for a bit at the hotel, taking time to have lunch and bird a little bit. A pair of Gartered Trogons provided amazing looks as they foraged just above our heads.
 |
| Gartered Trogon - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Royal Flycatcher - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
A nearby mixed flock contained some Yellow-rumped Warblers and our only Blue-winged Warbler of the trip.
 |
| Yellow-rumped Warbler - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
We stopped briefly at the Crocodile Pond where there were several butterflies flitting around, including this Dorantes Longtail.
 |
| Dorantes Longtail - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
Only a few minutes later, some quiet rustling from the side of the path drew our attention to some Ocellated Turkeys. Nine were present and they did not seem too disturbed with our presence. Dan and I used this opportunity to really study their plumage. Photography was more of a challenge because of the harsh, mid-day light but we made do.
 |
| Ocellated Turkey - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Ocellated Turkey - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Ocellated Turkey - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Ocellated Turkey - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Ocellated Turkey - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
The birding remained good as we continued down the trail. I was thrilled to see my first ever Buff-bellied Hummingbirds!
 |
| Buff-bellied Hummingbird - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
As we walked, the habitat slowly began to transition into mature forest, and the species composition changed along with it. New trip birds kept appearing - Ruddy Quail-Dove, Black-faced Antthrush, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. This Slaty-tailed Trogon posed briefly for photos. I love the Slaty-tailed/Black-tailed group of trogons - big, with a huge orange bill!
 |
| Slaty-tailed Trogon - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
We had an interesting interaction with a troup of Central American Spider Monkeys that ended with them attempting to urinate on us! We high-tailed out of there....
 |
| Central American Spider Monkey - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Central American Spider Monkeys - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
We had gone about five kilometers in a straight line down the track before we decided to turn around. What lay at the end of this path had piqued our interest - perhaps there was some unknown-to-the-public ruin down this path that only the researchers know about.
We paused at the Crocodile Pond for half an hour upon our return as the time was now mid-afternoon and bird activity was slowly increasing. Here we heard a Pheasant Cuckoo, watched a singing Purple-crowned Fairy, and observed a couple of Russet-naped Wood-Rails bathing at the water's edge (a very dangerous proposition that has to be done carefully, given the crocodile population).
 |
| Russet-naped Wood-Rail - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Purple-crowned Fairy - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Purple-crowned Fairy - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
The Pheasant Cuckoo continued to call and we soon passed an American couple with a guide who were trying to spot it. Eventually we continued on, but they quickly waved us back as they had spotted the bird! Thanks to them, Dan and I had our first ever looks at this difficult to find species. Just as my camera was focusing, the Pheasant Cuckoo took flight to a more obscured section of scrubby woodland.
That evening we headed back to the pond for a night hike. The temperatures were perhaps a degree or two warmer this evening, giving us hope that reptiles would be a little more active.
A few Silky Anoles were our first finds. This species is best identified by having the American flag on its dewlap!
 |
| Silky Anole - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Silky Anole - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
We walked around the perimeter of the pond, scanning for eyeshine while also keeping an eye to the ground for snakes. A Mottled Owl flushed from its perch, high above the wetland, while Morelet's Crocodiles watched us closely from their murky retreat. Just their unblinking eyes were visible above the water's surface.
We were 2/3 of the way around the pond when a slithering shape caught my eye. The snake nearly got away from me into a thorn and ant-riden Acacia thicket, but a dive and grab later and I was holding the little guy.
 |
| Black-striped Snake - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
This is a Black-striped Snake (Coniophanes imperialis), a new one for both Dan and I. It is found from the Rio Grande Valley in Texas south along the Caribbean coast of Mexico, through Guatemala and Belize and into extreme northern Honduras. This nocturnal species preys on small vertebrates, especially lizards and frogs.
 |
| Black-striped Snake - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
Spurred on with our success we continued our lap of the Crocodile Pond. I noticed a second snake crawling on the ground, this one a Leptodeira that upon close inspection was a Spotted Cat-eyed Snake (Leptodeira polysticta). Just a gorgeous individual!!
 |
| Spotted Cat-eyed Snake - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Spotted Cat-eyed Snake - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Spotted Cat-eyed Snake - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
We finished our night hike with this spectacular tarantula, a Guatemalan Red-rumped Tarantula (Brachypelma sabulosum).
 |
| Guatemalan Red-rumped Tarantula - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Guatemalan Red-rumped Tarantula - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
 |
| Guatemalan Red-rumped Tarantula - Tikal, Petén, Guatemala |
The next day we had plans to explore the archaeological site once more. It was hard to believe that this would be our last full day of the trip already!
----------
Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Thorn forest in the Motagua Valley (January 18-19, 2019)
Part 3: Los Rachitos del Quetzal (January 19-20, 2019)
Part 4: Sierra de Los Cuchumatanes (January 20-21, 2019)
Part 5: Reserva Natural Atitlán (January 21-22, 2019)
Part 6: Volcán San Pedro (January 23, 2019)
Part 7: Cerro Rostra Maya, Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 24, 2019)
Part 8: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 25, 2019)
Part 9: Los Tarrales Natural Reserve (January 26-27, 2019)
Part 10: Parque Nacional Tikal (January 28, 2019)
Part 11: El Caoba former airstrip, Tikal former airstrip (January 29, 2019)
Part 12: Parque Nacional Tikal, Uaxactún (January 30, 2019)
Part 13: El Remate and Flores (January 31, 2019)
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