Escape from Otavalo

For a while there, it seemed like Laura and I would be stuck in Otavalo for the rest of our lives. The protests in Ecuador had continued and Otavalo was essentially in total shutdown. Nobody could arrive or depart due to the roadblocks setup along every road leaving the city. Most of the stores remained closed, though we did see a grocery store open for an hour or so most days, allowing us to stock up on lunch supplies. However fresh vegetables and meat were pretty much non-existent. Because supplies could not reach Otavalo, the gas station was closed - there was no gas or diesel left.

Throughout the ordeal we had been in communication with our teachers at the Spanish school to figure out a way for us to leave Otavalo. Eventually a tentative plan was hatched - we would be taking motorbikes during the middle of the night, allowing us to bypass the roadblocks when they were not manned. The only problem with this plan, however, was that the fuel shortage had meant that this option was no longer on the table.

On Friday - our last day of class - we spent the entire morning with our teachers Carlos and Juan while they called around and tried to find a vehicle that could take us out. Eventually we went for a walk around town, making it to the main roundabout (pictured above) so that Carlos could inquire with some people. He seemed to know everyone in town. While we waited, several truckloads of people passed by, heading towards Quito to continue with the protests. The people controlling the roadblocks of course let them through as they were supporting the cause, but no other vehicles were permitted to leave.

Carlos pulled through for us. A friend of his was arranging to transport some others out of Otavalo with his Land Rover, taking some back routes that go through the mountains. He was leaving in two hours and could take Laura and I, as well as two friends of ours from Spanish school. There would be no guarantee that we could leave but he would at least give it a shot and hope that he could figure out a way past the roadblocks.

We packed up our bags in a hurry, hoofed it across town and loaded up into the Land Rover, taking care to not arouse any suspicion with the locals who were busying themselves by cutting down street trees to make more barricades.

All nine of us loaded up and hit the road. Several routes were blocked as we left town, forcing us to backtrack to find a new route. During one particularly hairy section of road we jumped out of the Land Rover to lighten the load, and it just barely struggled through. We then quickly hopped in and sped off immediately, hoping that we did not attract attention. We had to pack all of the gear for all nine of us inside of the vehicle. It would be too suspicious to strap the backpacks and suitcases to the roof racks.

A few minutes later we passed some people who were erecting a new barricade. A quick conversation was had and and a bribe was given, and we continued on.

Our route took us high into the paramo habitat near Laguna de Mojanda, an area I had hoped to visit but had not up to this point, due to the roadblocks of course.

We had a quick ten minute stop here for a bathroom break. I of course maximized every minute and added a couple of birds to my Ecuador list in Baird's Sandpiper and Sedge Wren.

Baird's Sandpiper - Laguna de Mojanda, Ecuador

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch - Laguna de Mojanda, Ecaudor

The main route we were hoping to take was blocked, according to another driver we met near the lake. We took a far sketchier road that hopefully led to freedom. The Land Rover was up to the task.

Nearly three hours after our journey began, we could see an oasis off in the distance. It was indeed the main highway, complete with cars and trucks. I had never been so happy to see a fully functioning highway before. Fortunately the route from here to the airport was completely clear and we soon met up with Eugenio, our contact from the Spanish school in Quito. Eugenio drove us to the airport and dropped us off at a hotel where Laura and I were able to find a room. At last, we had managed to leave Otavalo. Of course none of this would have been possible without the assistance of Carlos and Eugenio, as well as Cristian, who drove the Land Rover.

I am currently writing this from a cabin in the eastern Andes, close to the famous Guacamayos Ridge. Laura and I are here for five nights. There are no protests or burning tires barricading the roads here - just birds, snakes, moths and trees!