Monday, 4 January 2021

Parque National Manuel Antonio

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On March 19 I awoke before dawn to listen to the forest come alive. Little Tinamou, Yellow-throated Toucan, Blue Ground-Dove and various flycatchers all joined in for the dawn chorus. After breakfast, we watched a Bicolored Hawk fly over us. It is always a treat to see this uncommon hawk in the Neotropics. 

We left the Hot Springs Lodge area and rumbled down the gravel road back to the highway. A short distance later, we turned off the road and headed towards Parque National Manuel Antonio, arriving around 8:30 AM. The cool morning was quickly heating up and bird activity had already began to diminish. 

Mouthless Crab (Cardisoma crassum) - PN Manuel Antonio

PN Manuel Antonio is set up for muggles who wish to get in their nature experience. Along the well-worn trails it is an easy place to see a number of mammal species which are acclimated to the crowds of tourists. These include Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths, Hoffman's Two-toed Sloths, and three of Costa Rica's four monkeys: Mantled Howler, White-throated Capuchin, and Central American Squirrel Monkey. 

White-throated Capuchin - PN Manuel Antonio

Upon arrival, several guys wearing fake national park uniforms forced us to pay for parking at a location quite far from the national park gate. It was only after the fact that we realized these guys were not actually affiliated with the park, and there were better parking options closer. Others harassed us in an attempt to sell trinkets or to offer their guiding services. These early experiences put our guard up, but once we were actually in the park we were able to relax a little. The joys of visiting touristy areas when traveling!

We walked on some of the trails for an hour or two in the morning. Despite the mid-morning heat we found a few interesting birds, such as some vocalizing Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls and Fiery-billed Aracaris, Slaty-tailed and Black-throated Trogons, Golden-naped Woodpeckers, Black-bellied and Riverside Wrens, and lots of Black-hooded Antshrikes. Five species of migrant wood-warblers were a nice addition to our lists as well. A stroll around the Sendero Punta Catedral provided excellent views of the coastline, including numerous Brown Boobies by their nesting colony. Later in the afternoon, we stumbled across a rather tame pair of Ruddy Quail-Doves. 

Ruddy Quail-Dove - PN Manuel Antonio

Ruddy Quail-Dove - PN Manuel Antonio

We enjoy numerous reptile sightings during our visit. The most common, by far, were the ubiquitous Black Spiny-tailed Iguanas, followed by Delicate Ameivas and Common Basilisks. We also found two new species of anoles and a Speckled Racer, which bolted after a quick look. 

Black Spiny-tailed Iguana (Ctenosaura similis) - PN Manuel Antonio

Many-scaled Anole (Anolis polylepis) - PN Manuel Antonio

Copper Anole (Anolis cupreus) - PN Manuel Antonio

We encountered both species of sloths, a group of Mantled Howlers, and tons of bold White-throated Capuchins. My main target had been the Central American Spider Monkeys but that, unfortunately, was not to be. 

White-throated Capuchin - PN Manuel Antonio

White-throated Capuchin - PN Manuel Antonio

Despite the crowds of people, we were able to find a relatively secluded beach for some mid-day relaxation in the sun. This provided a good opportunity to put our snorkels and masks to use. The beaches here really are quite picturesque.

PN Manuel Antonio

By early afternoon we were ready to head back to our accommodations. We stopped in town to fill up on groceries and visited a nearby restaurant with a magnificent view over a valley. Evidence of the pandemic was finally beginning to be seen as we had to use hand sanitizer upon arrival and every other table was out of order. This seemed a bit odd at the time, but now it is just a part of life...

That evening I set up my moth sheet for the final time in Costa Rica. The diversity was a little better than the previous night. In fact, there was almost no overlap with the species. Ah, the biodiversity of the tropics.

Hypercompe caudata - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Jupoata rufipennis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Unidentified treehopper (tribe Ceresini) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Eucereon formosum - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Abrochocis esperanza - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Idalus critheis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Unidentified Scoopwing Moth (subfamily Epipleminae) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Cosmosoma caecum - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Epeiromulona sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Unidentified Planthopper (tribe Flatini) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Phostria tedea - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Trichromia cardinalis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

The award for Insect Of The Night was a tie; shared between a Peruvian Shield Mantis and a Split-eyed Owlfly. 
 
Peruvian Shield Mantis (Choeradodis rhombicollis) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Peruvian Shield Mantis (Choeradodis rhombicollis) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Ululodes cajennensis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Ululodes cajennensis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

2020 Part 6: The Rest of the Year

A warm sunny day in early October provided the incentive that several friends and I needed to seek out one of Ontario's rarest reptile species. I had only laid eyes on Wood Turtles twice before - once in Michigan, and once in Ontario. It took a while but once we found the first, we could not stop finding them! All credit goes to my friend Dav who spotted every single turtle.

Wood Turtle (Glyptemys insculpta)

To continue reading, click here.

Sunday, 3 January 2021

2020 Part 5: Summer and Early Autumn

My interests shifted to insects for much of the summer, as documented in my previous post. That blog was growing a little long and so I had left out some of the other insect highlights from the summer that were not moths. I’ve included a few of them below. 

Common Sootywing (Pholisora catullus)

Thread-waisted Wasp (Ammophila sp.)

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2020 Part 4: Moths and Other Nightlife

My interest in moths really took off in 2020 due to a confluence of factors. In July 2019 I purchased a lightweight moth light, called a LepiLED, that uses little energy and can be operated with a small powerbank. We had brought this with us to South America and used it regularly, quickly getting addicted to Neotropical moths in the process. This interest carried over into 2020. While Ontario does not have nearly the same diversity as Ecuador, Costa Rica or Colombia, mothing here can still blow your mind. The Ontario list is over 3300 species with many more still to be added. 

Common Spragueia Moth (Spragueia leo)

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Thursday, 31 December 2020

2020 Part 3: Spring and Early Summer


Spring migration was a different experience for many of us in 2020. This is usually a very busy time of year; Iike many others, I temporarily relocate to the Point Pelee area for a chunk of May to maximize the bird migration experience. With national and provincial parks closed for the duration of spring, this was simply not possible. Our two weeks in quarantine during late March and early April further cut down on naturalizing opportunities, but we made do where we could. 

Ruffed Grouse

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Tuesday, 29 December 2020

2020 Part 2: Costa Rica

We left Colombia behind and flew to San José, Costa Rica for the next leg of our adventure. Neither Laura nor I had visited this country before but we had grand plans. Costa Rica is obviously much smaller in area than Colombia and so less time is needed to cover off the country to the same degree; I expected that six weeks would be sufficient for this trip. Of course, one could spend a lifetime in a country as diverse as Costa Rica and still miss out on significant portions of its natural history. But we had budgeted 2-2.5 years to travel throughout the Americas and so six weeks would do, this time. By mid-April, I had plans to travel to Canada for a couple of days and then to Spain, where I had a tour scheduled for Quest. Laura, meanwhile, would stay in Costa Rica for a few additional weeks and volunteer her time at a wildlife rehabilitation clinic.


Collared Redstart



Monday, 28 December 2020

2020 Part 1: Colombia

Oh 2020. What a year. I mean, what more can really be said? As per tradition, I am writing a few blog posts about my highlights from this year, in roughly chronological order. Today's post will be about Colombia.

Black-tailed Trainbearer

Heading into 2020, Laura and I were pretty excited for a year filled to the brim with travel and all the accompanying wildlife sightings. The previous August we quit our jobs, flew to Ecuador, and explored there for the final three plus months of 2019. Following a short two weeks in Canada to celebrate Christmas with our families, we were soon back on a jet to South America. Our first two months of the year would be spent in Colombia! 



Saturday, 26 December 2020

Boreal Butterflies and Woodpeckers in Fraserdale

The morning of June 20 dawned cool with a completely overcast sky, a moderate breeze and the threat of rain. These conditions were not great since I had planned to spend the morning looking for several species of butterflies. Butterflies seem to be solar-powered and the day's lack of sun meant that most would stay out of sight. 

Fraserdale, Cochrane District

Fraserdale is surrounded by vast, boggy taiga, where the dominant trees are stunted Black Spruces and the dominant animal species seem to be the blackfly and mosquito. My main interest this day lied in seeking out a few species of butterflies - species which are tied to these northern forest types and which fly during June. As I mentioned before, searching for butterflies is all about habitat and seasonal timing, since many species are "on the wing" for only a few weeks each year. The habitat was excellent for Taiga Alpine in particular, but I was also hoping to come across Grizzled Skipper, Frigga Fritillary, and Greenish Blue. These species have all been found in the area but some are more common than others. It may have been just a touch too early in the year for Greenish Blue as well. 

I cooked breakfast while wearing my bug jacket - the blackflies were ferocious, even with the breeze - geared up, and headed out to see what I could find. I began by walking down the dirt road pictured above. It cut through the boggy landscape, eventually crossing the railway tracks and continuing to the west.  

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Thursday, 17 December 2020

The Hot Springs Lodge and Area, North of Quepos


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From Jacó we drove southeast along the Pacific coast. The drive was pleasant and we only stopped only once, at the Río Hollin which produced a pair of Collared Plovers, some Northern Jacanas, two Roseate Spoonbills and some Blue-winged Teals, among other common shorebirds and wading birds. At around 1:30 in the afternoon we arrived at our home for the next two nights. Tucked away in the foothills and next to a gorgeous creek, this property which we had found on AirBnB seemed like just the perfect location to spend a few nights.  

We had been informed that we could order meals at the Hot Springs Lodge. This building was located just down the road, and owned by the same people who had rented us the AirBnB property. It appeared that no guests were staying here at the moment, but we eventually managed to find the manager. Unfortunately, he had not been made aware of our arrival from the lodge owners and so he did not have the supplies to cook meals. Not a big problem for us since we had recently purchased groceries. It just meant that we would be stuck eating wraps for our next few meals! The property was also missing a few essential items that had been promised, but the setting was absolutely beautiful and we did not mind too much. 

 Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

We enjoyed a relaxed afternoon, complete with a swim in the crystal clear waters of the creek. Laura made use of the hammock for a siesta, while I explored here and there in search of birds. Without a doubt, the highlight was a reasonably cooperative Turquoise Cotinga that perched high above the house in the bare branches of a tree. Even in the terrible light, its electric blue plumage was unbelievable. 

Turquoise Cotinga - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

The bird activity picked up a notch as the afternoon gave way to evening. Blue Ground-Doves provided nice views next to the house, a Little Tinamou sang from somewhere within the forest, and small flocks of tanagers and occasionally passed through the tops of the nearby trees. Melodious Blackbird, Olivaceous Piculet, Buff-rumped Warbler, Shining Honeycreeper and White-crowned Parrot were some of the memorable species for me. 

Scanning for birds - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

It had been a while since I had set up my moth sheet and light and so I was eager to give it a shot. The visibility near the house was very good, and the surrounding gardens, creek, and secondary forest gave me hope that a solid diversity of species would show up. 

Antiblemma neptis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Hylesia sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

I have to admit that I was a little disappointed with the showing. Of course, we still found quite a few interesting insects, but the numbers and diversity did not match my expectations. Looking back now our results seem pretty good, at least when compared to the insect diversity that I see here in Ontario. I guess that Laura and I were just spoiled from some of our previous mothing exploits in Ecuador and Colombia!

Conchylodes bryophilalis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Tiger moths (Arctiini) are a highly diverse group of moths that seem to be well-distributed in the Neotropics. The shapes and patterns of these variable insects can be quite incredible, and most of the wasp mimics are a type of tiger moth. Below are a few which we encountered this evening. 

Rhynchopyga flavicollis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Unidentified tiger moth (subtribe Phaegopterina) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Macrocneme sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Not all of the moths were that exotic looking. In fact, some genera that we see in Ontario are also well represented in Central and South America. Others, while belonging to a different genus, look rather similar to some of "our" species from back home. Below are a few examples. 

Meganola bifiliferata - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Petrophila sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Anomis sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Pearl Moths (subfamily Spilomelinae) are diverse in Ontario, and indeed they are also commonly encountered in Costa Rica. While the Ontario species are, with a few exceptions, various shades of drab brown, at least the Neotropical versions are fairly colourful.

Phostria dohrnii - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Syngamia florella - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Eulepte sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

My favourite species of the night was not a moth. Instead, it was this truly awesome fulgorid planthopper called Odontoptera carrenoi

Odontoptera carrenoi - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Below are a few more of my favourite hoppers and beetles from the session. 

Unidentified lady beetle (family Coccinellidae) - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Calyptoproctus sp. - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Alagoasa illigeri - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Oreodera glauca - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

I will finish off this post with a few more photos of moths. This moth thing, it is addicting I tell ya...

Prorifrons antonia - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Artace cribrarius - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Mursa phtisialis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Hypsopygia amoenalis - Hot Springs Lodge area, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Late at night there was one more avian surprise in store. The unmistakeable, hissing scream of a Barn Owl from close to the Hot Springs Lodge. Such a cool vocalization!