Friday, 4 April 2025

A Month In Northern Peru, Part 18: Wattled Curassows at Muyuna Lodge (February 26, 2024)

February 26, 2024

As dawn broke, Laura, Moises and I slowly cruised along a quiet watercourse. The dawn chorus was active and included species like Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Zimmer's Woodcreeper and Black-tailed Antbird, but I stayed focused on the treeline, hoping that a curassow-shaped bird would appear. 

The dawn chorus quieted as the sun rose above the horizon. Early morning is the best time to find the curassow, and we were running out of time. 

Domain of the Wattled Curassow - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

And there it was! It was the bright red bill that first caught my attention and 0.05 seconds later, my brain registered that I was staring at a female Wattled Curassow.

Wattled Curassow - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

But it was better than I had imagined - the female was accompanied by a tiny chick! For a few magical minutes we watched the duo in their element. 

Wattled Curassow chick - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Wattled Curassow chick - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Wattled Curassows are closely associated with these rivers in the western Amazon basin and that has led to their downfall. The rivers are the highways, and curassows have a lot of meat. But in a few areas like here, hunting of the curassows does not occur and encounters with this secretive species are possible. The curassows like feeding on the fruits of mahogany trees that line the watercourses, and that is likely what this female was on the hunt for. 

Wattled Currasow - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

We were on cloud nine after such an epic start to the day! I was pleased that I even managed some mostly in-focus photos with my broken lens. 

For the next few hours we cruised around by boat, checking out different waterways in search of some of our target birds. We were successful with Black-tailed Antbird and Short-tailed Parrot. 

Black-tailed Antbird - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Short-tailed Parrot - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

It was a very birdy morning and we cleared the hundred species mark before returning to the lodge for breakfast. 

Bluish-fronted Jacamar - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Black-tailed Tityra - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Proboscis Bat (Rhynchonycteris nasa) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

After breakfast, we searched by boat for some of the few remaining target birds I had in mind such as Purple-throated Cotinga, Gray-eyed Greenlet and Wing-barred Seedeater, but were unsuccessful. 

Unidentified katydid - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

We were also on the lookout for Dusky-billed Parrotlets, a potential lifer for Laura and a new photographed bird for me. Moises claimed sightings on a few occasions, but each time my photos revealed that they were the more expected Riparian Parrotlets. 

Band-tailed Antbird - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

At one point during the afternoon we entered an area of higher ground where there was a small walking trail. After spending most of the day in a boat it felt great to feel the earth beneath our boots, even though this meant that we were accompanied by a swarm of mosquitoes.


Amazonian Trogon - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Methona confusa - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

We found several groups of Eastern Pygmy Marmosets, one of the smallest species of monkey!

Eastern Pygmy Marmoset (Cebuella niveiventris) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Eastern Pygmy Marmoset (Cebuella niveiventris) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Our guide, Moises had a stake-out for Nancy Ma's Night-Monkey (Aotus nancymai) that was visible from the main watercourse. 

Nancy Ma's Night-Monkey (Aotus nancymai) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

During the mid-afternoon, Moises took us down a channel choked with vegetation to look for some herps. We kept a close eye on the vegetation until Laura spotted the first snake, as she is known to do!

Giant Parrot Snake (Leptophis ahaetulla nigromarginatus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

While we have seen this widespread species before, this was a new subspecies for us. The extensive black markings between the scales are quite distinctive. 

Giant Parrot Snake (Leptophis ahaetulla nigromarginatus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Even better than the parrot snake was this next species: a Northern Caiman Lizard (Dracaena guianensis)! I have wanted to see this huge species of lizard for many years but had never gotten lucky. As the name suggests, particularly large individuals somewhat resemble caimans, and they share similar aquatic habitats. Caiman lizards feed on snails, fish, amphibians and other creatures that they find underwater. 

Northern Caiman Lizard (Dracaena guianensis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Northern Caiman Lizard (Dracaena guianensis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

As the sun set, we found ourselves slowly paddling in a different wetland after another unsuccessful Purple-throated Cotinga search. We enjoyed watching a pair of Yellow-chinned Spinetails. This species is widespread in South America but is fairly localized in Peru. 

Yellow-chinned Spinetail - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

You would be hard-pressed to find an activity that Laura likes more than a night-hike in the tropics, and tonight's walk was a good one. We only stayed out for a short while but came away with some nice sightings, including several snakes!

Smoky Jungle Frog (Leptodactylus pentadactylus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Ancylometes sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Unidentified net-casting spider (family Deinopidae) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Crowned False Boa (Pseudoboa coronata) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Pierella hortona - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Leptodactylus sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Sais rosalia - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

I think my favourite sighting of the walk was this Slender Opossum (Marmosops sp.). It was extremely confiding and didn't mind my close approach for photos. 

Slender Opossum (Marmoseps sp.) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Though they may resemble a rodent to some (Moises confidently identified it as an "Amazonian Mouse", whatever that is), these are actually a tiny genus of neotropical opossums, meaning that they are a marsupial. Slender opossums typically live in the viny, dense understory where they search for insects, arachnids, flowers and fruit. 

Slender Opossum (Marmoseps sp.) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

My final post from Peru will include our last couple of days at Muyuna Lodge. 

Sunday, 16 March 2025

A Month In Northern Peru, Part 17: White-sand Birding At RN Allpahuayo-Mishana and Muyuna Lodge (February 24-25, 2024)

February 24, 2024

Just outside of the city of Iquitos lies an expansive area containing white-sand forest. The particular forest types that grow on white sand are somewhat uncommon in the Amazon, yet the stunted tree growth provides quite the contrast to "typical" Amazonian rainforest. Over the years quite a few unusual bird species have been found in this white-sand forest outside of Iquitos. Indeed, it was only a few decades ago that a strange gnatcatcher was discovered with canopy flocks here; in 2005, the Iquitos Gnatcatcher was formally described as a new species to science, though some taxonomies consider it a subspecies of the Guianan Gnatcatcher. So far, the Iquitos Gnatcatcher has only been found within the Allpahuayo-Mishana National Reserve. 

Laura and I wanted to put in a proper search for the gnatcatcher as well as other specialties of this forest type which includes Ancient Antwren, Mishana Tyrannulet, Allpahuayo Antbird, Brown-banded Puffbird, Brown Nunlet and Zimmer's Tody-Tyrant. We enlisted the assistance of German Coisffman whom we had met a few days earlier at ExplorNapo Lodge. Initially we were prepared to visit on our own, but we decided to enlist German's help because the trail system here can be confusing (and we had no intel), and because he knew of some good areas for the Iquitos Gnatcatcher. Even still, we went in with fairly low expectations of finding the gnatcatcher. It can be extremely tricky and most birders miss it. Ideally we would have had three days at RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, but that was not possible given our itinerary and so one day would have to do. 

We arranged for a taxi to drop us off at the entrance and wait while we birded, before bringing us back to Iquitos later in the afternoon. It was a dark, overcast morning with the threat of rain looming in the air and the dawn chorus was muted. We walked in from the road and after fifteen minutes reached the guardhouse where we would pay our fee. 

We first tried a side trail that entered the forest near the guardhouse. Despite the gloomy conditions we found some interesting species, including two vocal Brown Nunbirds that we eventually tracked down for some good views. This was the first time seeing this species for Laura and I. 

Brown Nunlet - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru

A little while later, we tracked down another one of our big targets, the Ancient Antwren. This is another recently described species which is only found in a few areas of white-sand forest in northern Peru, including RN Allpahuayo-Mishana. It is a canopy species that often travels with mixed flocks. Photos were difficult as it was backlit and flitting in the canopy, plus I was dealing with a lens that was unable to autofocus. 

Ancient Antwren - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru

It was around this time that the rain began to fall in earnest and so we backtracked to the guardhouse. We settled up the entrance fee and then waited out the rain which was now coming down in buckets. It took about an hour, but it finally passed us by. I was anxious to get back on the trail system as it was now mid-morning. However, I was optimistic that the birds would be more active after the rain. 

For the rest of the day, German, Laura and I walked slowly along the main entrance trail as well as on various side-trails that cut off of it. German took us to several areas where he had seen the gnatcatcher in the past. We listened carefully for mixed flocks, as this is the best way to cross paths with the gnatcatcher. Some of the mixed flocks were productive and we found a Mishana Tyrannulet in one of them, another target down. But overall the birding was fairly slow and we failed with the gnatcatcher. 

Some of the trails hadn't been cleared in some time and we had to scramble around a few large tree-falls. 

RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru

We ventured into an area that often produces Allpahuayo Antbirds, another range-restricted species that we were on the hunt for. We gave it our best shot, but they refused to respond to the tape. The forest was strangely quiet for most of the day. 

Waved Woodpecker - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru

We found a pair of vocal Brown-banded Puffbrds and tracked one down for photos. This is a species we had only seen before in white-sand forest in Colombia and I was thrilled to photograph it for the first time, even if the photos were pretty poor given the low light, the lack of autofocus, and the puffbirds' penchant for perching in the canopy. 

Brown-banded Puffbird - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru

We picked up a few more nice sightings throughout the day including a pair of Rufous-backed Stipplethroats and a Striolated Manakin. 

Striolated Manakin - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru

We managed to cobble together 71 bird species for the eBird list but struck out with the big target, the Iquitos Gnatcatcher, as well as the Allpahuayo Antbird, so it was hard not to be a little disappointed with our visit to RN Allpahuayo-Mishana. Still, it was neat to explore the forest types of the reserve and it was nice to get to know German as well. 

That evening Laura and I prepped for the final leg of our Peru trip. In the morning, we had plans to visit Muyuna Lodge for three nights to search for Wattled Curassows and several other specialists of the varzea forest found there. 


February 25, 2024

When planning the Amazonian leg of our trip, we strategically picked three lodges to give us a great chance at a wide diversity of species. For the last three nights of our trip we would be at Muyuna Lodge, situated at a low point along the south side of the Amazon where the forest floods each year. Since we were still near the beginning of the rainy season, there was dry land, though our rubber boots were necessary and most of our birding was still done by boat. 

Because Muyuna Lodge is located south of the Amazon River, some of the bird species would be new to us. A river as massive as the Amazon can provide a significant barrier for birds, especially for non-migratory forest dwellers like antbirds and puffbirds. The Saturnine Antshrike, for example, is only found south of the river and would be new to us. Same with the Blue-cheeked Jacamar and Rufous-necked Puffbird. Some of my other targets were varzea (flooded forest) specialists, such as Short-tailed Parrot and Varzea Thrush. 

However, the main reason we were visiting Muyuna Lodge was for the Wattled Curassow. This endangered species has been nearly hunted to extinction - seemingly a difficult task in the vast Amazon basin. But this is a species that is usually found close to the rivers, and the rivers act as highways for humans. Muyuna Lodge and the surrounding forest is a bit of a sanctuary for the curassows, as the value of the birds as something other than a food source has now been realized. Birders travel here from around the world for a chance to see them. 

A driver working for Muyuna transported us out of Iquitos to the docks at San Joaquin de Omaguas. From there, it was only a 45 minute boat trip across the wide Amazon River and down a tributary called the Yanayacu River. 

Laura and I were eager to see what we could find, though our guide, Moises wasn't too interested in walking in the forest right after lunch. Our forced siesta concluded around three and the three of us went for a walk in the forest behind the lodge. This area floods annually but for now it could still be traversed with rubber boots. 

Female Wire-tailed Manakin - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

We rustled up a nice variety of species including our first Saturnine Antshrike with a mixed flock, though we had no luck with the jacamar or puffbird. Ant-things were well-represented and I was pleased to photograph these Plumbeous Antbirds. 

Plumbeous Antbirds - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Plumbeous Antbirds - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Moises pointed out this sleeping Yellow-crowned Toró peering out of its roosting hole. These nocturnal spiny rats are typically found in flooded Amazonian forest.

Yellow-crowned Toró (Isothrix bistriata) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Laura came through with a snake, as she often does. This time it was a huge South American Sipo remaining motionless on a tree buttress. These diurnal hunters have excellent eyesight. 

South American Sipo (Chironius multiventris) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

South American Sipo (Chironius multiventris) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Perhaps it was looking for one of these:

Blue-lipped Tree Lizard (Plica umbra) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Before returning to the lodge, Moises pointed out a tree with several tiny Eastern Pygmy Marmosets clinging to the side. It was too dark for good photos, but we would have more chances with these diminutive primates in the coming days. 

After dinner, we headed out by boat for some spot-lighting along the waterways. Overall it was pretty slow, and Moises was only willing to stay out for an hour. 

Common Pauraque - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

One highlight was this gorgeous Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) hanging out next to the river. What a beaut!

Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Before calling it a night, I quickly checked my moth trap that I had strung up behind the lodge. There were just a few species present, continuing the befuddling trend of not finding any moths in the Amazon. Maybe it is better later in the rainy season?

Crinodes besckei - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Unidentified prominent moth (family Notodontidae) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Anticla antica - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Trichromia sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

Enyo ocypete - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru

In the morning, we would commence our first search for the Wattled Curassow. Stay tuned.