Tuesday 30 August 2022

Parque Nacional Huascarán: Part 3

August 7, 2022

Laura and I had booked four nights in the town of Caraz, affording us plenty of time to explore Parque Nacional Huascarán and the surrounding areas. We took a break from high alpine exploration on August 7th and visited a few sites in the dry, scrubby valley found at the western base of the Cordillera Blanca. 

We started our day with a sleep-in and a leisurely breakfast. Feeling well-rested and well-fed, we made the short drive south to an area called Pueblo Libre. This scrubby, cactus-filled site is situated on the edge of town and is home to a unique suite of birds. While much of this type of scrub has been destroyed by humans, small pockets remain and it is here that the Pale-tailed Canastero holds on. 

 Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

Considered a form of Creamy-breasted Canastero by some authorities, the Pale-tailed Canastero has a limited range in central Peru. The Pueblo Libre area is one of the "traditional" sites to seek it out, mainly because of its close proximity to the main highway and the towns of Caraz and Yungay, where birders often visit. 

It was already after 8 AM when we arrived but the birds were still quite active. We quickly noted Band-tailed Seedeaters and Band-tailed Sierra Finches, Croaking Ground-Doves and our first Spot-throated Hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the hummingbirds eluded my camera during the course of our walk. 

Band-tailed Sierra Finch - Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

I inadvertently flushed a nightjar while walking through some cactus scrub. We were pleased to see that it was a gorgeous Band-winged Nightjar, our first of the year. 

Band-winged Nightjar - Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

It is not surprising that most birds in this landscape are clad in shades of grays and browns, matching their environment. A large flock of Greenish Yellow-Finches provided a bit more colour, but only a touch. 
Greenish Yellow-Finch - Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

Greenish Yellow-Finch - Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

The canasteros were being rather tricky and we had walked around for almost two hours without success. Still, the scenery was different from what we had been seeing, and we enjoyed sifting through the various bird species. 
 Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

Finally, we had a stroke of luck when I heard the first canastero singing. We found two of them over the next twenty minutes, though they remained a little distant. In typical fashion for the species, they preferred to perch on top of some of the columnar cacti. It is amazing how birds can routinely do this without stepping on any spines!

Pale-tailed Canastero - Pueblo Libre, Ancash, Peru

The second place that we visited was a gravel road that headed north towards the town of Huaylas. The presence of ample ground bromeliads in the scrubby vegetation beside the road provides excellent habitat for two endemic tanagers: the Great Inca-Finch and Rufous-backed Inca-Finch. The former species prefers some of the lower elevations along this road, while the latter is the dominant species near the top of the road. Laura and I had seen both of these species earlier in our trip but we were keen to improve on our views. 

Inca-finch scrub - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Despite our midday arrival to the pass, we found several pairs of Rufous-backed Inca-Finches in quick succession. Such handsome birds!

Rufous-backed Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Rufous-backed Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Despite their striking colours, they blend in surprisingly well in their sepia-toned environment. Though, that yellow bill really stands out!

Rufous-backed Inca-Finches - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Inca Finches are classic Peruvian birds. All five species in the genus Incaspiza are endemic to this country! Laura and I are not making it to north Peru during this trip, where the other three species can be found, so they will have to wait for a future trip. 

Rufous-backed Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

A nice surprise was a very good look at a Spot-throated Hummingbird. Our earlier morning encounters had been short-lived each time; I had not even managed a poor photo. Well, I successfully managed that poor photo this time around!

Spot-throated Hummingbird - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

And one last photo of a fine Rufous-backed Inca-Finch.

Rufous-backed Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

We descended a few hundred meters in elevation until we were in the heart of the Great Inca-Finch range. Again, it took less than 60 seconds to find our target! 

Great Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

The Great Inca-Finch looks very similar to the Rufous-backed but a few differences can be spotted. These include the relative size of the black mask and black throat patch. The Great Inca-Finch also sports a slightly duller back, lacking the brighter rufous tones, but this is rather subtle. 

Great Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Great Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Our Inca Finch quest was highly successful as we had "walk away views" of both species. A rather excellent way to spend the hottest part of the day! 

Great Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru

Great Inca-Finch - Carratera a Huaylas, Ancash, Peru


August 8, 2022

Laura and I ventured back into the national park for our final full day in the area. We chose a different sector: Quebrada Paron. 

The prices here were a lot more reasonable than Laguna Llanganuco, as the guard charged us 5 soles (about 1.70 Canadian dollars) per person. eBird data at Quebrada Paron is rather scarce, since almost all foreign birders to PN Huascarán only visit Laguna Llanganuco. This is generally because they only have a day or two in the area and most of their main targets can be found along that road. 

Laguna Paron - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

We had already done quite well at Laguna Llanganuco (and the Polylepis forest beyond the lakes) and I was curious how Quebrada Paron differed. 

This was an excellent choice and Laura and I had an absolutely amazing morning. We were among the first people to enter the park and were treated to a nearly cloudless sky illuminating the snow-capped peaks and steep rock walls framing the valley. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Despite the successes of our previous days, we still had three new (to us) bird species on our list of possibilities. These included the Andean Parakeet, Rainbow Starfrontlet and Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant. However, all three seemed to be somewhat uncommon and I kept my expectations low. 

Imagine my delight when a tight flock of compact, bright green parakeets streaked over our car shortly after entering the park! We tried chasing them down and managed reasonable looks, but they took off down the valley before we could fully appreciate them. Luckily, we found another small flock just a short ways up the road!

Andean Parakeets - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Andean Parakeet - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

An even bigger surprise occurred just minutes later. While waiting for the parrots to re-appear, a large orange hummingbird with a green head and a straight bill landed on a branch only two meters from me. A Rainbow Starfrontlet! It promptly took off a few seconds later, and despite some playback we never managed to convince it to return. It was an exciting lifer for me, even though the species can be quite common further north in Peru and southern Ecuador. 

We continued further, consistently gaining elevation up the switchback roads. The lake is situated at 4155m; we had a ways to go. We passed through a beautiful Polylepis forest and quickly found a few of the specialty birds of this endangered ecosystem including Plain-tailed Warbling Finches and Giant Conebills. 

Plain-tailed Warbling Finch - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Giant Conebill - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The conebills were particularly confiding, easily providing the best views that we have had of this scarce species. We watched a trio of them interact, forage and sing over a prolonged period of time. 

Giant Conebill - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Chatty and curious Line-cheeked Spinetails were abundant in this area as well. 

Line-cheeked Spinetail - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Line-cheeked Spinetail - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

With no more birds to distract us, we completed the drive up to the lake and arrived just before 10 AM. And the views were incredible!

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

A trail follows the north edge of the lake for several kilometres towards a distant glacier. Laura and I loaded our backpacks with food and water and set off on foot. It was still relatively early in the day and the tourists had not yet arrived, meaning we practically had the entire trail to ourselves. It was stunning! 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The birding was somewhat slow, but we didn't care. Besides, we had found pretty much everything that we had hoped to see in Huascarán up to this point. Waterbirds were few and far between - no ducks, and just a smattering of Silvery Grebes. We flushed up a couple of ground-tyrants, saw a Giant Hummingbird zip by, and found a noisy pair of Rufous-eared Brushfinches. A few Ancash Tapaculos and Stripe-headed Antpittas were heard. I played the tape for Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant at each Polylepis patch but did not have any response. But really, we just marvelled at the scenery and the impressively diverse plant community. I will let the photos do the talking. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Monnina salicifolia - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

This wild blueberry species was growing alongside the path. It was not as juicy as I expected, but the flavour was excellent. A nice mid-hike snack...

Blueberries - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

This rather unique orchid is called Aa matthewsii

Aa matthewsii - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

We found a good sittin' tree on the walk back. 


Laura and I returned to the vehicle to see crowds of people milling about, hiking to a mirador, and kayaking near the western shore of the lake. Apparently, Laguna Paron is a popular spot with Peruvian tourists - not a surprise given the beauty of the area. Laura and I had timed our visit perfectly and got out of there just in time! 

Parque Nacional Huascarán had treated us very well and we highly recommend the area to visiting naturalists/birders, or to anyone who enjoys hiking in gorgeous alpine scenery. You will not be disappointed. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Friday 26 August 2022

Parque Nacional Huascarán: Part 2

The most popular birding site at Parque Nacional Huascarán is the road that leads to two lakes (Lagunas Llanganuco and Orconcocha). Prior to reaching the lakes, the scrubby habitats are home to Plain-tailed Warbling Finches, Line-cheeked Spinetails and Black-crested Tit-Tyrants. The lakes themselves are productive not just for waterbirds but for canasteros, Stripe-headed Antpittas and much more. Beyond the lakes, several excellent stands of Polylepis hold other avian gems. And if one is really ambitious, they can follow the narrow gravel road up and over the mountain pass. Additional Polylepis groves are suitable for the scarce White-cheeked Cotinga. 


August 6, 2022

Laura and I cooked a hearty breakfast at the hotel and then hit the road, planning to be gone for the day. We paid the obscenely expensive foreigner's entrance fee and entered the park (locals only pay 5-10 soles, while foreigners are charged 30). These particular lakes are rather scenic and popular with hikers and trekkers so the park can charge pretty much whatever they like. 

We made a few stops before reaching the lakes and easily found a few of our targets, including a pair of Plain-tailed Warbling Finches. This scarce tanager is endemic to high elevation scrub in northwestern Peru. 

Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

An Ancash Tapaculo vocalized a little further up the road. With a bit of encouragement, it showed its face. Though, in typical tapaculo fashion, I never managed a completely unobscured photo. 

Ancash Tapaculo - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Like most tapaculos, the Ancash Tapaculo has a rather limited range. It is only found in a narrow elevation band in northwestern Peru. 

Ancash Tapaculo - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The clouds were hanging low in the sky, obscuring the distant mountain peaks that were undoubtedly snow-capped. Still, it was a beautiful scene when we reached the lakes. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The birding remained steady and we watched a few Stripe-headed Antpittas chasing each other around. We had heard the odd, frog-like songs of this species on a few previous occasions but this was the first observation for us. 

Stripe-headed Antpitta - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Stripe-headed Antpitta - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

A Striated Earthcreeper was creeping over earth next to the lake. 

Striated Earthcreeper - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

We left the productive environs of the lakes behind and began the long and arduous journey up over the mountain pass, aiming for a particular patch of Polylepis forest found on the other side. Though the White-cheeked Cotinga is occasionally found near the lakes, the Polylepis patch on the far side of the pass is much more reliable for the species. After missing this species along the Santa Eulalia Road, I did not want to let it out of my grasp once again!

I had heard that birders visit this site regularly and so I figured that it would be a relatively short and painless drive. But I was wrong. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The journey started out well, as we found a few neat birds in the lower sections before the road conditions deteriorated. These included several Tit-like Dacnis and Blue-mantled Thornbills. 

Tit-like Dacnis - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Blue-mantled Thornbill - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

I put the Toyota Corolla through its paces as we slowly navigated over the mountain. The road is best traversed with a high-clearance vehicle, but with some patience and creativity I managed. After an eternity we finally reached the pass at nearly 4900m of elevation. We were met with heavy fog and I worried that this adventure would be in vain. How would we spot White-cheeked Cotingas in this weather?

The driving became marginally easier on the other side of the pass. At least I now had gravity on my side.  Though, one peek over the steep precipice that was a constant companion beside the slippery road made me question whether I truly wanted gravity on my side! Finally, after two hours, we reached the beginning of the Polylepis forest. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

And was it ever worth it! Within 10 minutes of our arrival, a White-cheeked Cotinga responded to my tape. Laura and I quickly turned and spotted the culprit, perched on a foggy branch. Luckily, the visibility was just good enough to make out its features, but the views were far from satisfying as the photos indicate. 

White-cheeked Cotinga - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The forest was absolutely gorgeous. Polylepis is not nearly as common as it once was. Trees are in short supply at these elevations and most of the accessible Polylepis groves have been cut down for firewood. This was one of the most impressive stands that I had ever seen up close. 

Polylepis forest - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

We slowly ambled down the road, finding birds like Line-cheeked Spinetail, Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant, Plain-tailed Warbling Finch and our first Rufous-eared Brushfinches. 

Line-cheeked Spinetail - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Rufous-eared Brushfinch - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

A pair of Giant Conebills were working over the flaky bark of the Polylepis. This species is never found away from Polylepis and as such, it can be a difficult species to come across. I had seen one Giant Conebill previously in Ecuador, but it was a new bird for Laura. 

Giant Conebill - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Giant Conebill - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

The fog rolled in and out but visibility remained pretty decent. We spotted a second White-cheeked Cotinga a little further down the road and this one stayed put for a little while, allowing better views. It was too far for good photos; it was even pushing it for "record shots".

White-cheeked Cotinga - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

This young Tit-like Dacnis was a little curious and flew in to check us out. 

Tit-like Dacnis - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Several White-browed and Taczanowski's Ground-Tyrants were popping along, in the open grassy areas near the forest. 

White-browed Ground-Tyrant - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Hummingbirds were common in this area and included Shining Sunbeam and Blue-mantled Thornbill. The latter were by far the most common and I tried to improve my photos of this species. 

Blue-mantled Thornbill - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

With a long drive still ahead of us, Laura and I left the Polylepis behind and continued back up the road, towards the pass and eventually the lakes. We made one quick stop along the way - a small forest patch that had recent reports of Tawny Tit-Spinetails, another range-restricted species that Laura and I had never seen before. This was a very successful pit stop and we enjoyed face-melting views of one individual, mere minutes after arriving. 

Tawny Tit-Spinetail - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Tit-spinetails are ridiculously cute - just a tiny ball of fluff with a long spiky tail. 

Tawny Tit-Spinetail - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Luckily, we made it back up and over the pass without any mechanical issues or flat tires. Needless to say, I would highly recommend that any birders attempting this route take a high-clearance vehicle, but it can be done in a car if you are a little crazy. 

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

We stopped for a few minutes between the two lakes for some last-ditch birding before departing. There were still a few species that we were missing from this part of the park with the most likely being the Black-crested Tit-Tyrant. Again, luck was on our side and we found several in short order. 

Black-crested Tit-Tyrant - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Speaking of ridiculously cute, tit-tyrants fit the bill. Basically, any bird with the word "tit" in its name does. 

Black-crested Tit-Tyrant - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

Black-crested Tit-Tyrant - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash, Peru

And with that, we called it a day and headed back to our hotel. It had been an adventure!