Monday 29 July 2019

Borneo 2018: Part 11 (Danum Valley)

Part 1: Fly to Borneo, Kota Kinabalu (September 30 - October 2, 2018)
Part 2: Kota Kinabalu to Mount Kinabalu (October 3, 2018)
Part 3: Full day at Mount Kinabalu (October 4, 2018)
Part 4: Mount Kinabalu to Sepilok (October 5, 2018)
Part 5: Sepilok (October 6, 2018)
Part 6: Kinabatangan River (October 6-7, 2018)
Part 7: Kinabatangan River, Gomantong Caves (October 7-8, 2018)
Part 8: Tabin Wildlife Reserve (October 8-9, 2018)
Part 9: Tabin Wildlife Reserve (October 9-10, 2018)
Part 10: Danum Valley (October 11-12, 2018)
Part 11: Danum Valley (October 13-14, 2018)


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October 13, 2018

Early morning birding at the BRL - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

The news of the morning was a small family group of Maroon Leaf Monkeys that were feeding on some trees beside the lodge. Before venturing on our morning hike, we took the time to watch the behaviours of these primates for the first time of the trip.

Watching the Maroon Leaf Monkeys - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Maroon Leaf Monkey - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

As is usually the case, the babies stole the show with their cuteness!

Maroon Leaf Monkey - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Maroon Leaf Monkeys - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Maroon Leaf Monkeys - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Maroon Leaf Monkeys, as their name implies, specialize by feeding on leaves and possess specialized gut fauna to help process the difficult material. Unlike Orangutans which have to feed on a wide range of fruits, leaf monkeys always have a steady year round food source. They just have to spend much more time eating to gain enough nutrients from this diet.

Maroon Leaf Monkey - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Maroon Leaf Monkeys - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Once we had our fill of the Maroon Leaf Monkeys we ventured down a trail, crossed a suspension bridge and completed the climb to a viewpoint overlooking the river. Along the way we stopped for whatever biological curiosities we detected, while the soundtrack included distant gibbons and barbets.

Dead invertebrates do not last very long in the tropical rainforests of the world. Ants were making quick work carrying off this millipede in one piece. The dismemberment would occur later.

Unidentified millipede - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

This Moellenkampi Beetle, while still alive, appeared to be on its way out when we discovered it. I am sure it provided a meal to ants in short order.

Moellenkampi Beetle - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

It seemed strange to see Cattle Egrets in such a heavily forested environment but two or three were regular fixtures on the grass surrounding the lodge. 

Cattle Egret - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Shortly after crossing the suspension bridge the loud calls of the gibbons were a little closer. Soon we spotted the culprits and one even put on a show by brachiating along a branch. I was pretty pleased with these photos, the side-lighting provided an interesting view.

North Bornean Gray Gibbon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

North Bornean Gray Gibbon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

North Bornean Gray Gibbon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

We found fewer new birds this morning but as usual there were a few. These included Striped Wren Babblers and a Plaintive Cuckoo.

Another major highlight was spotting a Draco lizard; this time a new species for our group known as the Black-barbed Flying Dragon (Draco melanopogon). It is one of the easiest Draco lizards to identify due to its distinctive dewlap.

Black-barbed Flying Dragon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

The ascent up the mountain was slow going not only due to the wildlife we were seeing, but also because of the stifling hot and humid conditions. The view from the top, however, was well worth any discomfort!

The BRL as seen from the viewpoint- Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

While we rested near the viewpoint I spotted this Green Crested Lizard (Bronchocela cristatella), our second of the trip.

Green Crested Lizard - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Green Crested Lizard - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

This butterfly is called the Striped Blue Crow Butterfly (Euploea mulciber), a widespread species in southeast Asia.

Striped Blue Crow Butterfly- Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

On the way back down the mountain we made the judgement call to stop for an hour by a natural swimming hole, below a waterfall found along a trailside stream. It was one of the most refreshing swims I can ever recall and it was great to get away from the heat and humidity for a little while, at least. One can experience a pedicure here too since there is a type of fish that is well-known for nibbling dead skin from feet. It was a strange sensation and a little bit painful even!

By the time we returning to the lodge we were famished, and eager to tuck into the impressive lunch spread provided by the lodge. While we were eating and conversing I interrupted everyone upon spotting a huge scorpion on the other side of the dining area. This is Heterometrus longimanus, one of the largest scorpions in the world!

Heterometrus longimanus - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Soon after lunch the clouds descended and a steady rain began falling. We had planned on going for an afternoon walk but that idea was postponed while we waited out the weather. A check of the Danum River produced several Asian Water Monitors and a Bearded Pig.

Bornean Bearded Pig - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Just outside the lodge, Adzil spotted a snake in a tree just above eye-level. Seeing that it was something not particularly dangerous I did what anyone would do and caught it. The look on Adzil's face was priceless! I guess not a lot of their guests catch the snakes they see.

Gray Bronzeback - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

This is a widespread species called the Gray Bronzeback (Dendrelaphis caudolineatus) which is found throughout southeast Asia. It spends most of its time in trees but rarely descends higher than about four meters. It feeds mainly on arboreal lizards and tree frogs. This was a feisty individual that gave me a few nips for my efforts.

Gray Bronzeback - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

That evening we went for one final nightwalk along the main entrance road for a couple of hours.

File-eared Tree Frog - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Borneo Forest Dragons were easily found again. This individual was particularly bright, but is still the same species. What a stunner!

Borneo Forest Dragon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Borneo Forest Dragon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Borneo Forest Dragon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

We were hoping to come across a Western Tarsier which is a strange, mouse-sized primate that clings to the branches in the understorey and which feeds on a variety of invertebrates and vertebrates alike (including bats which it catches by hand!). Unfortunately rain apparently makes the tarsiers difficult to find and we were unsuccessful for a second straight year. At least the light rain made it easier to find frogs such as this Common Puddle Frog which was vocalizing from the roadside ditch.

Common Puddle Frog - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

A roosting White-rumped Shama was great to see as well!

White-rumped Shama - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Invertebrates, of course, were very prevalent though I did not photograph as many this time.

Unidentified wandering spider - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Unidentified katydid - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

We stopped by the frog pond on our way back to take a look at the brightly coloured Harlequin Tree Frogs (Rhacophorus pardalis) as well as whatever else we could coax out of the woodwork.

Harlequin Tree Frog - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Harlequin Tree Frog - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

This one I have identified as a Copper-cheeked Frog (Chalcorana raniceps), presumably named due to the colour of the tympanum.

Copper-cheeked Frog - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia


October 14, 2019

It was hard to believe but our time in Borneo was coming to an end. With flights booked to Kota Kinabalu for that afternoon we had just a few hours to explore on the morning of October 14.

One of the other guides at the lodge had discovered a different male Bornean Orangutuan, quite close to the lodge, happily feeding on figs. We walked over and had incredible views, yet again, of another wild Bornean Orangutan. Some of the group was happy to spend the rest of our allotted time with the orangutan while others were keen to go back up the canopy tower. We split up the group and I joined Adzil and some of the travellers on the canopy walkway for a couple of hours, while Ben and Ali stayed back with the rest to watch the orangutan.

Canopy walkway at the BRL - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Clipper - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

The morning was warm and sunny with a slight breeze and bird activity was very good at the tower. Whiskered Treeswifts put on a show, our first Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker and Crimson Sunbirds were spotted, and a nice variety of cuckoos appeared as well (Violet Cuckoo, Banded Bay-Cuckoo, Raffle's Malhoka, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha).

Raffle's Malkoha - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

A pair of Diard's Trogons were spotted by one of the travellers which provided a dose of excitement. Much better than the heard-only one we had the previous day!

Diard's Trogon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Diard's Trogon - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

We finally caught up with a confiding Least Pygmy Squirrel as well. This Bornean endemic is among the smallest squirrel species in the world!

Least Pygmy Squirrel - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

Near the end of our time on the canopy walkway as the minutes ticked down, one more special bird was in store. It was a male Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher, a new one for our group (and my first "lifer" in a couple of days). While widespread in southeast Asia the Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher appears to be declining in Borneo for unknown reasons. It was an awesome way to finish up our last morning on the canopy walkway.

Blyth's Paradise-Flycatcher - Danum Valley Conservation Area, Sabah, Malaysia

And with that, the trip was pretty much over though we did add Paddyfield Pipit on the tarmac at the airport. Borneo continues to inspire and astound and I am excited to return with Quest in 2020. 

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Part 1: Fly to Borneo, Kota Kinabalu (September 30 - October 2, 2018)
Part 2: Kota Kinabalu to Mount Kinabalu (October 3, 2018)
Part 3: Full day at Mount Kinabalu (October 4, 2018)
Part 4: Mount Kinabalu to Sepilok (October 5, 2018)
Part 5: Sepilok (October 6, 2018)
Part 6: Kinabatangan River (October 6-7, 2018)
Part 7: Kinabatangan River, Gomantong Caves (October 7-8, 2018)
Part 8: Tabin Wildlife Reserve (October 8-9, 2018)
Part 9: Tabin Wildlife Reserve (October 9-10, 2018)
Part 10: Danum Valley (October 11-12, 2018)
Part 11: Danum Valley (October 13-14, 2018)

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