Tuesday 7 April 2020

A Week at Río Claro - The River, Oilbird Cave and Entrance Road

While the Mulata Trail was the only real hiking trail worth checking out at RN Cañon del Río Claro, the actual entrance road into the reserve proved worthwhile. It passed through a mix of habitat types, meaning that a solid diversity of species could be found here. Walking the road provided another outlet to search for birds away from the Mulata Trail.

The entrance to the reserve provided an opportunity to search for open country species that were otherwise difficult to find within the reserve - a good way to pad our day lists! Some flowers in bloom provided a chance to observe species like White-vented Plumeleteers, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteers and Blue-chested Hummingbirds. We also found a group of Silvery-brown Tamarins in the trees near the entrance gate, though that was during a hike where I did not have my camera with me.

Blue-chested Hummingbird - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Blue-chested Hummingbird - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

The road terminated at the restaurant but a footpath followed the same contour of the river valley to the Refugio cabins where Laura and I stayed, and beyond.

Río Claro - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Río Claro - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

We found a nice variety of species along this trail, though it was most productive early in the morning before all the other tourists were awake.

Bay Wren (and begging Shiny Cowbird) - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

The dark understorey proved productive on a few occasions for antbirds, antwrens, flycatchers and other denizens of these habitats. Our only views of Magdalena Antbird and White-flanked Antwren were along here, as well as others like Black-tailed Flycatcher and Olivaceous Flatbill. 

White-flanked Antwren - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Micrathena schreibersi - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Turkey Vulture - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

One of my favourite sightings during the week was that of a Fasciated Tiger-Heron, a sort of nemesis species for Laura and I. We just could not find one anywhere! But at Río Claro, we observed a/the Fasciated Tiger-Heron on most days somewhere along the river. Usually it was found between our cabins and the restaurant.

Fasciated Tiger-Heron - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

This was the third and final species of Tiger-Heron that I have now seen, the others being the Rufescent and Bare-throated Tiger-Herons. The Fasciated Tiger-Heron is always found near rivers and streams, preferring water courses with rocky substrates and a moderate current.

Fasciated Tiger-Heron - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Fasciated Tiger-Heron - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

An Oilbird cave is located perhaps half a kilometre beyond the El Refugio accommodations along the trail flanking the river. This is something that Laura and I had never experienced before. Our only previous Oilbird sightings were of lone individuals hunting at night along the trails of Yellow House in Mindo, Ecuador.

The Oilbird is one of the strangest birds out there. Its appearance is like a bizarre hybrid between a nightjar, potoo, owl and hawk, and it is the world's only nocturnal frugivorous bird. Oilbirds communally roost in caves during the day and "hunt" for oily fruits such as those produced by palms throughout the night. Oilbirds utilize a primitive form of echolocation to help with navigating, though given the rudimentary quality of the echolocation, it is theorized that it is utilized to assist with maneuvering within their caves, as opposed to finding fruit to eat.

Laura and I positioned ourselves on the opposite of the cave one evening, hoping to see the spectacle of hundreds of Oilbirds exiting the cave to hunt for the night. As dusk fell the primal screams created by the masses of Oilbirds inside the cave increased in volume. It was nearly pitch black when the first individual left the cave.

Oilbirds - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Within minutes, dozens of Oilbirds were streaming out of the cave. It was quite the scene; the birds appearing like giant bats flying around. We watched for around half an hour until all the birds had left, with just a few stragglers still flying over the river. What an experience, though my photos do not begin to do it justice!

Oilbirds - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

A few days later we swam across the river in the afternoon with the Colorado birder we had befriended - Doug - to see the Oilbirds while they were roosting. We packed our cameras and flashlights in my dry bag and floated it across with us.

We entered the cave as the vocalizations echoed and reverberated around. A chilling sound. Soon, we were face to face with dozens of the creatures.

Oilbird - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Oilbirds - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Oilbirds - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

The area around our accommodations provided excellent wildlife watching opportunities as well. The stone walls along the stairs were sometimes frequented by various lizards and geckos, while insects of many different species were also not hard to find.

Anolis sp. - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Macromantis sp. - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Yellow-headed Gecko (Gonatodes albogularis) - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Ischnocodia annulus - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Yellow-headed Gecko (Gonatodes albogularis) - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Weevil sp. - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

It was inside our room where we had the best opportunities to see a variety of birds. Our room overlooked the river and was located on the third storey. This resembled a canopy tower of sorts. I spent a few hours during the middle part of each day sitting by the window with my camera within reach.

Big Sit birding - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

We enjoyed quite a few species from our balcony, many of them in the trees beside our balcony at eye level. Below is a sample of some of the more photogenic ones!

Blue Dacnis - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Gartered Trogon - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Cinnamon Becard - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Panama Flycatcher - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Rusty-margined Flycatcher - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Golden-hooded Tanager - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Some of the birds we saw from here are more frequently observed high in the canopy. It is not too often that a Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, for example, can be shot at eye-level.

Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Ochre-bellied Flycatcher - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

A family group of Colombian Red Howler monkeys were frequently visible on the far side of the valley, sleeping or foraging in the trees. We also heard many species of birds from our balcony, including Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Little and Great Tinamous and Crested Owls. At one point a mixed flock moved through that contained this Yellow-green Vireo, an unusual species at Río Claro.

Yellow-green Vireo - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

And just a few more photos taken from the balcony during one of our many mid-day "Big Sits".

Purple-crowned Fairy - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Thick-billed Euphonia - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Thick-billed Euphonia - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Double-toothed Kite - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Shiny Cowbird - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

Yellow-backed Tanager - RN Cañon del Río Claro, Antioquia, Colombia

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