A Quest Nature Tours Adventure To Sulawesi

The island of Sulawesi must be on the bucket list for any naturalist with a strong interest in biogeography. Though Borneo is situated only a few hundred kilometers to the west, and the Moluccas are not far to the east, the species composition of Sulawesi is significantly different than these islands. Deep water trenches lie on either side of Sulawesi, so that even during times of glacial maxima when the sea-levels are at their lowest, Sulawesi remains an island. This limits gene flow and, over time, many of the species found on Sulawesi have evolved into unique forms. This uniqueness is really evident with the bird life, as almost half of the regularly-occurring birds are found nowhere else in the world. 

Sulawesi Pitta - Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Since Sulawesi is on the east side of “Wallace’s Line”, the deep-water trench separating it from Borneo, the avifauna of Sulawesi is more in line with what is found in New Guinea and Australia. Barbets and broadbills, two Asian bird families that are well-diversified in Borneo, can’t be found on Sulawesi. Yet Australian families like megapodes and honeyeaters are widespread on Sulawesi. The high degree of endemism and the Australasian flavor would certainly make for an immensely enjoyable birding adventure!

Maleo - Bogani Nani Wartabone NP, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Our trip began in the city of Makassar in the far southwest of the island. Prior to the trip officially commencing, several of us early-arrivers arranged for a day of birding in the mountains east of Makassar. This was hugely successful as we found two range-restricted endemics: the Lompobattang Flycatcher and Lompobattang Leaf-Warbler. It was a great introduction to the montane species of the island, too. 

Dark-eared Myza - Malino Forest, Sulawesi Selatan, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Our first full day of the tour saw us visiting an area of upland karst forest called Karaenta, located only a short drive from Makassar. At dawn we found the black-headed form of Green-backed Kingfisher, a subspecies which is limited to the south of the island. We hoped to find the very different blue-headed subspecies later in the trip. 

"Black-headed" Green-backed Kingfisher - Karaenta forest, Sulawesi Selatan, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Some of the other highlights from our first full day included scarce species like Black-ringed White-eye, Piping Crow and Pale-bellied Myna, our first flying dragon of the trip (Draco walkeri) and a diverse selection of incredible butterflies. We finished the day by watching Javan Plovers foraging on some mudflats as the sun sunk lower into the sky. 

Draco walkeri - Karaenta forest, Sulawesi Selatan, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Violet Lacewing (Cethosia myrina) - Karaenta forest, Sulawesi Selatan, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We flew to the city of Palu for the next leg of the trip. Our destination was the species-rich mountains of Lore Lindu National Park, home to a whole new suite of species found in these higher elevations. 

Celebes Dwarf Squirrel - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Our first afternoon at Lake Tambing was mind-blowing, to say the least. We began with face-melting views of a Geomalia, an endemic thrush which can be very shy and difficult to find. 

Geomalia - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Our list quickly ballooned with one fantastic bird after another – Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Turquoise Flycatcher, Superb Fruit-Dove, Fiery-browed Myna, Blue-fronted Flycatcher, and Red-eared Fruit-Dove among others. 

Blue-fronted Flycatcher - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We waited until nightfall and then found ourselves looking at a Cinnabar Boobook mere meters above our heads. The evening’s fun wasn’t over just yet; we found Speckled Boobook and Sulawesi Masked-Owls before resting for the night.  

Cinnabar Boobook - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

The following day at Lore Lindu was incredible and we found most of the species we were looking for! Our delicious field breakfast at Lake Tambing was enjoyed with the company of Yellow-cheeked Lorikeets, Golden-mantled Racquet-tails, Pygmy and Cerulean Cuckooshrikes, and flyover White-bellied Imperial-Pigeons. 

Field breakfast at Lake Tambing, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Golden-mantled Racquet-tails - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We spent the remainder of the morning hiking up the famous Anaso Track. Additions were steady throughout the morning and, one-by-one, we found Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Malia, Maroon-backed Whistler, Sulawesi Thrush and Sulawesi Bush Warbler. The Hylocitrea, a unique passerine that is the only member of its family, is always a big target for birders at the Anaso Track. It took some time, but eventually we all came away with excellent views of this enigmatic species. 

Sulawesi Black-naped Oriole - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Hylocitrea - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We walked as high up as 2000 m in elevation, where we found a roosting Diabolical Nightjar in a clearing and a wealth of pitcher plants. Unfortunately, we could not turn up a Purple-bearded Bee-eater or a White-eared Myza, but that will provide a good reason to return one day.

Diabolical Nightjar - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Great Pitcher-Plant - Lore Lindu National Park, Sulawesi Tengah, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We detoured briefly at the Olobogu River grasslands on the outskirts of Palu, where we found Black-faced Munia, introduced Bar-winged Prinias, and quite a few Savanna Nightjars, flying around and calling at dusk. Our brief time in the central part of Sulawesi was over far too quickly, but we certainly made the most of it!

The next morning was spent mainly in transit as we flew from Palu back to Makassar and then north to Gorontalo. The rest of our time in Sulawesi would be spent here in the north. Birding in the Gorontalo area was limited but we really enjoyed having a late lunch at a floating restaurant in Lake Limboto, surrounded by herons, raptors, darters and bee-eaters. The marshy margins of the lake produced excellent sightings of Barred Rail, White-browed Crake, and two species of bitterns, while the nearby Otanaha Fortress was a perfect vantage point to watch a flock of Gray-cheeked Green-Pigeons in a dead tree as the sun set over the lake.

Javan Pond-Heron - Lake Limboto, Gorontalo, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Yellow Bittern - Lake Limboto, Gorontalo, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Sunset over Lake Limboto, Gorontalo, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We made our way east towards Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, though not before a quick detour to swim with Whale Sharks! This diversion was most welcome and a memory that we will not forget anytime soon, I’m sure. 

Whale Shark - Gorontalo, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Our time in this general region was very productive, thanks to our excellent local guides Mensur and Max.  Evening birding by our homestay was far more productive than we could have imagined, and we found White-faced Cuckoo-Dove, Oriental Hobby, White-rumped Cuckooshrike, Isabelline Bush-hen and Black-backed Swamphen in the hour or two before sunset. 

Black-backed Swamphen - Molibagu area, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

White-faced Cuckoo-Dove - Molibagu area, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We watched the next morning unfold from a vantage point along the Molibagu Road, quickly adding fantastic species like Maroon-chinned Fruit-Dove, Sulawesi Cicadabird, Pale-blue Monarch and White-necked Myna. 

Pale-blue Monarch - Molibagu Road, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We walked the trails near the park headquarters, and though the Blue-faced Rail remained elusive, we found a myriad of other birds including a photogenic pair of Ashy Woodpeckers, a Stephan’s Dove, vocal Azure-rumped Parrots, Pied Cuckooshrikes and walk-away views of a perched Sulawesi Honey-buzzard. 

Sphenomorphus celebensis - Bogani Nani Wartabone NP, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Ashy Woodpecker - Bogani Nani Wartabone NP, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We visited Tambun the next morning, which is a reliable site to find the unique Maleo, a type of megapode that is endemic to Sulawesi. 

Maleo - Bogani Nani Wartabone NP, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Not only did we find four Maleos in the forest, but we also toured the facilities used to hatch Maleo eggs and assisted in the release of two chicks. Max’s passion for Maleo conservation was evident and we felt honored to be guests here. The birding along the trail system of Tambun was otherwise very productive with species like Sulawesi Dwarf-Kingfisher, Purple-winged Roller and Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher, along with several unique lizard species. 

Sulawesi Dwarf-Kingfisher - Bogani Nani Wartabone NP, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Graphium milon - Bogani Nani Wartabone NP, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We continued working our way east and spent a morning on the beautiful slopes of Gunung Mahawu. The crown jewel of this mountain is a population of scarce Scaly-breasted Kingfishers (our guide Mensur found one with ease), but perhaps even more memorable was the experience we were treated to with a Sulawesi Pitta at a feeding station. 

Scaly-breasted Kingfisher - Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Sulawesi Pitta - Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Several other new species were found before breakfast, including Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot and Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker. 

Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot - Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Sulawesi Giant Honey Bee - Tomohon area, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We continued eastward to Tangkoko National Park, making a quick stop at sulphuric Lake Linow were we discovered Dusky Moorhen and large flocks of Wandering Whistling Duck and Sunda Teal. 

Wandering Whistling-Ducks and Sunda Teals - Lake Linow, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Tangkoko National Park lived up to its reputation and, despite the high wind during our entire stay, we immensely enjoyed this area. We spent a morning and an afternoon perched along a hillside with the scope. The flurry of bird activity included Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, Knobbed Hornbill, Silver-tipped Imperial-Pigeon, Purple-winged Roller, Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail and for a lucky few, Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk. 

Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Purple-winged Roller - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We also birded the trail system for a day. This was essentially Mensur’s backyard and he had stakeouts for everything! It was almost like checking items off a grocery list as he led us from one fantastic species to another – Sulawesi Scops-Owls, Buff-banded Rails, a Knobbed Hornbill nest, Ochre-bellied Boobooks, Philippine Megapodes and Gursky’s Spectral Tarsiers. 

Knobbed Hornbill - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Ochre-bellied Boobook - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Gursky's Spectral Tarsier - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We found at least five Sulawesi Bear Cuscus and marvelled at these little-known marsupials that are a relative to Australasian possums. 

Sulawesi Bear Cuscus - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

We “finished the set” by finding the blue-headed subspecies of Green-backed Kingfisher, and we also experienced walkaway views of Sulawesi Lilac Kingfishers and Rusty-backed Thrushes. Lizards were numerous, we spent some time with a troupe of Celebes Crested Macaques, and we finished the day by watching a Sulawesi Nightjar hunting at dusk. 

"Blue-headed" Green-backed Kingfisher - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Celebes Crested Macaque - Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

It is also worth mentioning that we enjoyed a well-needed midday siesta under shady trees by the sandy beach, complete with a delicious lunch (and some ice-cold beers). All in all, a perfect day. 

Lunch break at Tangkoko National Park, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Our last activity in the Tangkoko area was a boat trip along the coast and up a mangrove-lined creek. Here, we found our 8th and 9th kingfishers of the trip – Great-billed and Sacred. We found several wintering Blue Rock-Thrushes, a trio of Black-naped Terns, Pied Imperial-Pigeons, Gray-tailed Tattlers, Kentish Plovers and a White-belied Sea-Eagle to conclude a very productive Sulawesi trip. As a group, we found 186 species including most of the endemics known to the island. 

Great-billed Kingfisher - Tangkoko area, Sulawesi Utara, Sulawesi, Indonesia