Borneo: Quest for the Bornean Peacock-Pheasant

October 19, 2024

Laura and I were up dark and early from our accommodations in Ranau. I filled my thermos with coffee, we quickly packed (though not quietly, as every dog in the neighbourhood began barking), and we headed eastwards to the town of Telupid where we had a very special bird on deck. 

The Bornean Peacock-Pheasant has some similarities to the Bulwer's Pheasant which we observed just a few days ago. They are both species of pheasants, obviously, and they are both endemic to pristine forests in Borneo. But the Bornean Peacock-Pheasant is considered even more mythical with very few sightings ever by ornithologists or birders. Most of these encounters have occurred in remote regions of Kalimantan, Indonesia. 

A few years, some of the people living in a small village, Kampung Bestaria, near the town of Telupid discovered Bornean Peacock-Pheasants living in the forested hills near the village. Eventually, one of the residents named Khairul Ikhwan was able to establish a hide in the forest that, amazingly, the pheasants started to use! In recent years the management of the hide is done by Bestaria Eco-Tourism, a cooperative of the village. Now, birders and bird photographers from around the world are traveling to Kampung Bestaria in hopes of connecting with this mega species. 

I reached out to a friend of mine who is an independent birding guide in Sabah, and he gave me the phone number of Elfean Jahanin to help me coordinate my visit. By sunrise, Laura and I were in the Telupid area. We met Elfean (as well as another guy, Jolis) at a restaurant and enjoyed a bowl of fried noodles with an egg before setting off towards Kampung Bestaria. 

Upon arrival, we parked our car in the village and hopped in the back of a 4x4 truck for the next leg of the journey. We enjoyed the feeling of the wind in our hair, knowing that soon we would be sweating and hiking up a slippery trail. 

We drove through an oil palm plantation, then turned off the dirt track and crossed a river. From here the 40 minute hike began. 

At one point we had to take off our boots and cross a creek, though at other times of the year the water is lower and you can keep your boots on. 

Trail to Bornean Peacock-Pheasant hide - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Before entering the forest, the path took us through dense bamboo stands of which a human-sized trail opening had been created by machete. 

Trail to Bornean Peacock-Pheasant hide - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Eventually we reached the better quality forest and we kept climbing. Soon, we could see the hide up ahead. Though the hike wasn't overly strenuous for us, I can see it being quite difficult to anyone who is out of shape or who has mobility issues. The heat and humidity do not help matters. 

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant hide - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

There are two main seating areas at the hide: on the left (green tarp) is the upper area, while we walked down the slope to the right into the lower area. From what I had read ahead of time the lower area is better for photography since the birds are, more or less, at eye level. 

We settled in and waited for the pheasants. The first few birds began milling about, including several Ferruginous Babblers that went straight for the mealworms. 

Ferruginous Babbler - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Ferruginous Babbler - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

This hide attracts more than just birds. Several species of squirrels, treeshrews and even a Bornean Forest Dragon were taking advantage of the mealworms and rice. 

Bornean Forest Dragon (Gonocephalus bornensis) - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

This Low's Squirrel was a new one for me! 

Low's Squirrel (Sundasciurus lowii) - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

We did not have to wait long for the stars of the show to appear. Approximately half an hour after entering the hide, we heard a Bornean Peacock-Pheasant vocalize from somewhere up the slope. A few minutes later, a Bornean Peacock-Pheasant chick and its mother appeared at the edge of the clearing!

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Bornean Peacock-Pheasants - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

And then the male showed up. Looking absolutely ridiculous, he strutted into the clearing and mostly pranced around in front of his family. I have no words; here are some photos instead. 

Bornean Peacock-Pheasants - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Bornean Peacock-Pheasants - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

I was absolutely thrilled to have an opportunity to take these photos. At the Bulwer's Pheasant hide, we were dealing with very low light levels and closer proximity to the birds, so that I couldn't quite fit the male Bulwer's into the frame of the image. Those photos were mainly just records shots (not that I was complaining!). But here, the light levels were higher and the birds were just a bit further away at times, allowing me to take the photos I was itching for. 

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

One of my dream photos would be of the male bending forward so that the light could catch the peacock-like feathers down his back. Eventually I achieved some worthwhile results. 

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

And here are a few final photos of the male. What an incredible experience. 

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

While the male Bulwer's Pheasant at Trus Madi only dropped in for a few minutes, we were graced by the presence of the three Bornean Peacock-Pheasants for much of the morning! 

Obviously the visit was a smashing success and anything else at the hide would be a bonus. The birding was relatively slow otherwise and most of the other birds did not come in to the mealworms. A mixed flock passing through contained Short-tailed Babbler, Chestnut-rumped Babbler, Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Raffle's Malkoha, Malaysian Pied-Fantail and several bulbuls. 

Sabah Slender Skink (Sphenomorphus sabanus) - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

This stunning Rufous-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher appeared at the hide for a few minutes. 

Rufous-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

We identified two species of treeshrews as well. The first one here is a Lesser Treeshrew which is a widespread species in the lowlands of Borneo as well as mainland Malaysia and Sumatra. The second one is a Long-footed Treeshrew, an endemic species to Borneo, and it was a new species for Laura and I. 

Lesser Treeshrew (Tupaia minor) - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

While the Lesser Treeshrew (above) is rather arboreal, the Long-footed Treeshrew (below) is a strictly terrestrial species.

Long-footed Treeshrew (Tupaia longipes) - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

By late morning we began our hike back out to the road, taking our time in case there were any birds or butterflies of interest. 

Ideopsis vulgaris - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Iambrix stellifer - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Our best bird encounter was this Red-bearded Bee-eater perched just off the path. In my experience they can be rather confiding at times. These were probably the best photos that I have ever managed of one. 

Red-bearded Bee-eater - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Red-bearded Bee-eater - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

Red-bearded Bee-eater - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia

By lunchtime we were back at the start of the trail. The truck was waiting to transport us back across the river and back to Kampung Bestaria. We said our goodbyes to Jolis and Elfean and were on our way. What a spectacular morning it had been!

For those wishing to organize your own visit to the Bornean Peacock-Pheasant hide near Telupid, one way you can do it is by contacting Elfean Jahanin on Facebook. Trust me, a trip to Borneo is worth it just to see these spectacular Bornean Peacock-Pheasants. 

Bornean Peacock-Pheasant - Telupid area, Sabah, Malaysia