Explorations of an Ecologist: Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago: Part 15 (Caroni Swamp, Trinidad)

Introduction
January 25-27, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Karanambu Lodge
January 27, 2018 - Karanambu Lodge, boat cruise on the Rupununi River
January 28, 2018 - Rupununi savannah, Rock View Lodge
January 29, 2018 - Rock View Lodge and surroundings
January 30, 2018 - Rock View Lodge, drive to Atta Lodge
January 31, 2018 - First complete day at Atta Lodge
February 1, 2018 - Second complete day at Atta Lodge
February 2, 2018 - Cock-of-the-rock lek, drive to Surama Ecolodge
February 3, 2018 - First complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 4, 2018 - Second complete day at Surama Ecolodge
February 5 and 6, 2018 - Georgetown Botanical Gardens, Kaieteur Falls
February 7 and 8, 2018 - Tobago: Cuffie River Nature Retreat, Gilpin Trace
February 9, 2018 - Tobago: Little Tobago Island
February 10, 2018 - Trinidad: Caroni Swamp

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February 10, 2018

When booking the flights for this trip I elected to book one night in Trinidad before flying back to Canada. It worked out better timing wise with the flights, but it also meant that we would have one afternoon/evening to explore Trinidad if we felt so inclined. Despite the difficulties in finding an available room (Carnival festivities were on-going at the time) we were able to snag a room not far from the airport on Air BnB.

We had a relaxing morning - our final one in Tobago - taking some time to enjoy the beach for an hour or so, prior to dropping off the rental and checking in for our flight. The thirty minute flight went smoothly and we landed, grabbed our gear, and took a taxi over to where the Air BnB was located. From there we met our host Tenisha who gave us a tour of the place. She even offered to give us a ride to the Caroni Swamp, a location that we mentioned we were interested in seeing. Apparently with the Carnival festivities going on, getting a taxi would have been difficult. She was willing to call ahead for us too, to ensure that we had spots booked on that afternoon's tour of the Caroni Swamp.

That afternoon, Tenisha arrived to pick us up, with Laura and I sliding in the back seats next to Tenisha's mother and one of her daughters. Tenisha had worked for the government's department of tourism previously. She acted as tour guide while driving us to Caroni, teaching us a little bit about Trinidad and its culture. She dropped us off and we agreed on a pickup time later that evening.

The Caroni Swamp is a wetland complex located just south of the Trinidad capital, Port-of-Spain. Comprised of extensive mangrove swamps with several canals cut through, the Caroni Swamp is most famous for the large numbers of Scarlet Ibises that roost in the mangroves each evening. Several companies run boat trips into the swamp each afternoon, primarily to look for the ibises, but with many other wildlife sightings along the way. We checked in with Nanan's Tours and soon loaded ourselves into the boat. There were about six rows that could hold 4 or 5 people each, and it was a mostly full boat when we took off. Luckily Laura and I were able to snag seats at the side of the boat to ease with wildlife spotting.

Caroni Swamp mangroves

We were the only individuals on the boat with binoculars, and only two others had telephoto lenses, so it was a little bit of a different experience than what we were hoping for. Fortunately for the most part people kept their voices down and we were able to spot quite a bit of wildlife, but it was certainly a different experience than if we had been on a small group with other nature enthusiasts.

For the first hour or so we made our way slowly down a narrow channel that cut through the mangroves. Largescale Four-eyed Fish were occasionally found in the canal. Each eye on these fish has been divided into two parts; one facing up (that sits above the water) and one facing downwards, thus allowing them to see both above and below them at the same time. They truly are a bizarre sight to behold.

Largescale Four-eyed Fish - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

While I had maxed out my potential bird lifers in Tobago, there were still a handful remaining in Trinidad. Two of these species are regular at the Caroni Swamp and were both seen from the boat: Green-throated Mango and Masked Cardinal.

Green-throated Mango - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Since there were no other birders on our tour we did not stop for too many birds as we traveled along. The exception was a quick check of a Boat-billed Heron roosting deep within the mangroves, and a brief stop for a few of the Masked Cardinals.

Masked Cardinal - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Mangrove Tree Crabs were quite obvious, being found on the trunks of many of the mangroves.

Mangrove Tree Crab - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Laura made an excellent spot of a Tropical Screech-Owl tucked way back in the mangroves. We had cruised right past it (even the guide had not seen it) but Laura caught a glimpse of the owl and arranged for the boatman to back up to the spot. Sure enough, it was a Tropical Screech-Owl (well done, Laura!).

Tropical Screech-Owl - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

One species I was really hoping to encounter was Cook's Tree Boa since they are often reported from these boat trips. We did not have to wait long until the guide spotted one right above the canal. Needless to say this caused widespread panic among some of the other people on the boat, but excitement for Laura and I. We ended up seeing three in total during the course of the tour.

Cook's Tree Boa - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

There were fewer wading birds than I anticipated, though this Little Blue Heron was extremely cooperative!

Little Blue Heron - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Our guide had one more excellent find as he spotted a Silky Anteater resting in some of the mangroves and vines. These tiny creatures are the smallest member of the anteater family, and very difficult to find across its range. It turns out that they are semi-reliable at Caroni, however. The anteater was curled up and hiding its face, but we were thrilled to observe this little fuzzball.

Silky Anteater - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Eventually the canal opened up into a large open pond and the guide positioned the boat to the far side of the wetland. From here we would wait as soon the Scarlet Ibises would be returning to roost in the mangroves for the night. We noticed a small group on a distant mudflat but it wasn't until nearly sunset that the first small flocks came through.

Scarlet Ibises - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Scarlet Ibis - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Before long a steady stream ibis flocks began appearing. The looked like nothing more than dark silhouettes when juxtaposed against the bright sky, but transformed to bright scarlet when they passed in front of the darker mangroves. It is truly difficult to described the spectacle, since so many birds were involved and their colours were so shockingly vibrant, especially when illuminated with the day's last rays. I estimated that around 5,000 Scarlet Ibises passed by our location.

Scarlet Ibises - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

Scarlet Ibis - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

The ibises began to settle on the mangroves, appearing like large red flowers from a distance. Slowly the flocks in the air dwindled, though the last few stragglers were still arriving as we turned our boat around for the drive back through the mangroves.

Scarlet Ibises - Caroni Swamp, Trinidad

That evening Tenisha picked us up from the docks and took us on a scenic tour of Port-of-Spain. Laura and I were in the mood for some roti and Tenisha insisted on taking us to the best roti shop she knew off, right in Port-of-Spain. Again she gave us the scenic tour as we drove, while we also enjoyed the sights, sounds, and smells of Carnival (thanks, Tenisha!). By the time we arrived back at the Air BnB it was around 9:30 PM, so we scarfed down the roti and soon went to bed. The following morning we would be flying back home to Canada. It had been an amazing trip!

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Monday 4 March 2019

Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago: Part 15 (Caroni Swamp, Trinidad)

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